Forks oil change...

Lowgear5

New Member
I changed the fork oil in my 2004 Chopper. Everything went well, until...I went to replace the bolt that holds the fork oil in the tube but the bolt keeps turning before it gets completely tight. It's not cross threaded, stripped or anything like that. As best as I can tell, it looks like the bolt goes into the dampening tube system. The seals do not leak and I really do not want to tear them down due due to the possiblility to increase the chance that it can start. Also, taking everything apart does not ensure that the problem will not still be there after I go through all the work. According to the schematics, it appears that the dampening tube system has an "o" ring at the top so there is not way to keep it from turning. I'm sure I'm missing something that allows the bolt to tighten. I tried pressurizing the form tube with compressed air while attempting to tighten the bolt, thinking the higher pressure may help to support resistance while tightening the bolt. Very hard to do by yourself. This did not work. Any help would be appreciated.
 

CCRainman

Well-Known Member
Try suspending the front end completely off the ground with no pressure. Allow the fork legs to completely extend. The bolt on top should tighten down,It's a fine thread. You need to keep pressure on when you start to thread otherwise it'll will not catch.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Technically, the last sealer is dragging the rod around. Did you clean the bolt, install a new sealing washer, tap the old sealer out of the rod's end?

Lets say this is the scenario:

1. No, I did not prep the forks in said way.
2. I used the old washer it came off of. It was smashed so I couldn't get it off and left it.
3. I didn't use sealer either. Now what?

A. Bring your allen tip or whatever you used to disassemble.
B. Bring the forks to someone with an air gun and the size of your tool should do the job.
C. Bring your index finger over you middle finger. Get lucky now! Bring that finger on that trigger like blip-blip and you are done!
D. Bring over 100 psi at that gun tip with a little more crush to the sealer... Start crossing fingers.
F. Bring IT!


Short version:

A short burst of an air gun usually tightens that up if the hand tool won't. Ignore the previous suggestions I stated. You are past the point.
 
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Lowgear5

New Member
Thanks Sven. That sounds like good advice. I tried hitting the bolt with my Dewalt electric screwdriver but the fast speed wasn't there. I will do as you suggest about tapping the bolt hole to try helping with the running of the bolt. Thatnks for the input and I will try your suggestions and especially the crossing the the fingers. Let you know how it goes.
 

08mastiff

Active Member
Travis that copper crush washer must be replaced and not re-used. If not you will get a leak. Bring the bolt and crush washer to a harley dealer, its a common bolt. They will have it in stock. Funny thing is they don't sell the washer without the bolt. I hope I read it correctly. I interpreted it as the bolt that goes in the lower leg and screws into the dampner.
 

Bowhunter

Well-Known Member
Travis,

I just rebuilt the fork tubes on my '09 K9 and you would be very surprised at how much "stuff" is at the bottom of those fork tubes, add to that the fact that the bushing were already shot at 10,000 miles and that they needed replacing. If you don't replace the seals now, how much longer do you really think that they will last. The seals are available at the Harley shop or JP Cycles can have them to you in a couple days. My advice is to take the tubes completely apart, clean out the "yuck", and replace the bushing and the seals and then have miles of smiles knowing that you will be trouble free for a good long time. The part# for the kit of seals and bushings from JP Cycles is 221-411 (Fork Leg Rebuild Kit) for $64.99 for the 41mm fork tubes.
 

RRRUFF

Well-Known Member
Travis, I have just finished rebuilding mine and a friends with new bushings and seals. As said above you probably need to re-bushing and seal your forks anyway. However you may have to compress the fork some to put pressure on the dampner so the bolt will tighten up without the dampner turning in the tube. If you removed the top fork nut and spring retaining nut you will need to install the retaining nut and compress the spring and fork then install the bolt. Be sure that the bolt threads are clean and un-damaged so the bolt will screw in easily. You should also apply some RTV to the bolt head and washer just to insure a good seal. Hope this helps.
 

Lowgear5

New Member
I appreciate all the helpfull input from everyone. Its nice to get info from folks that wrench on their bikes. Thankfully, with everyones help, I got the bolt back into the dampener and thus far it appears to be sealing. I will be performing a complete teardown later in the year and putting all new fork seals and getting all the " gunk" out of the bottom of my forks. Thanks again to all the helpful input.
 

Cshores

Member
Is there anyway to throw out an estimate of what an HD shop/qualified garage would charge for a Fork "Overhaul"?

I have seen the threads available here and it is a great resource of information. I am just worried I will fuck something up again. My left "fork" is having problems and the bike has maybe 5K miles on her.

The expense may or may not motivate me to take it on myself. Thanks for any information.
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Is there anyway to throw out an estimate of what an HD shop/qualified garage would charge for a Fork "Overhaul"?

I have seen the threads available here and it is a great resource of information. I am just worried I will fuck something up again. My left "fork" is having problems and the bike has maybe 5K miles on her.

The expense may or may not motivate me to take it on myself. Thanks for any information.
I had seals done on a crotch rocket a few years ago and it was around $300. I expect the dog will be similiar, I would expect on 300-400. I think that should motivate ya as its just $60 in parts.
 

erldawg

Guru
I had seals done on a crotch rocket a few years ago and it was around $300. I expect the dog will be similiar, I would expect on 300-400. I think that should motivate ya as its just $60 in parts.
Parts from HD dealer should be less than $60 and takes a good couple of hrs to complete. For $300 i could do three a day.....:2thumbs:
 

Bowhunter

Well-Known Member
Not a difficult job, and it gives you a chance to make sure it is clean and do some, polishing before reassembly.
 
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