fork seal install

[JWScarab]

Guys,

I have read GasMans how-to - very nicely done! I have new seal kit and bushings from Curtis and have new tubes on the way too (mine are shot). Also Curtis has helped me TONS with this kit and I went from being intimidated to it being pretty clear install now (Thank You!).

One thing bugs me. On the part right where you slide the spacer, washer, and seal over the tube then beat the shit out of it till they seat below the groove..... Why wouldnt you slide the spacer and washer only, beat the shit out of them till they seat, THEN slide the seal on and work it down with same PVC tool as a separate step???

It just seems to me that most of the resistance would be with the spacer getting pressed in. So get it in there first. Then install the seal with less beating during installation = less seal abuse.

I'm sure I am missing something???

p.s. - I overthink everything....lol.

 

[Rex Winters]

Thats how I did it. The rubber seal is a little PITA to do afterwards, but pushing it down carefully with an assortment of tools worked. The spacer and washer went in really easy with using an old washer/spacer, a pair of slip groove pliers, some electrical tape on the ends, and a hammer.

 

[JWScarab]

I did make the PVC tool mentioned. I do plan on using that tool to do the install to avoid damage and keep things straight. But I was just thinking the 2 step install would work out better. idk. I'll get a better feel for it and see how it goes when I do the assembly.

Just wanted others thoughts! I'm pumped about doing this rebuild myself!

oh yea - I also did the deisel fuel flush out trick Curtis mentioned - man was that sweet!!! No mess left in the lowers to clean out!

 

[Sven]

Prep:
1. With the hands, feel for pitting on the fork tube. Microscopic rises in the pores of the chrome. This rust builds up behind the chrome, walks the finish into sharp little pimples. With a jeweler's file, lightly graze the divots with a flat blade file. Just bust the rise down or off. Then feel with the hands again. You'll cut the new seal if not pre-divoted.
Run a thin sandwich bag over the top of the tube. This is when you take the seal and stop from cutting the seal over that tube's edge.

2. Sleeve-washer install: I am going to install the sleeve down the tube, and park it at the leg where the seal is going to go. I'm going to look at my washer and will slide that down with the [flat] cut side facing up. Before I installed the sleeve, it's so loose and wobbly without it in there, I can see how much slop it takes to run that sleeve down. I now have the sleeve resting on top of the leg, the washer is placed down the tube and on top of the sleeve it now rests on.

I now take a narrow enough screwdriver to go in between the leg and tube as I tap and shake the tube and let the sleeve find itself sliding down that leg. I do not want to cock that sleeve, but tap the top of the washer so it begins entering the leg as I shake lightly [the guiding there of] is that if it slid out when disassembled, it can be pushed in, not hammered in as whatever you read... If this is the same part we are talking about.

At some point with the tapping of the screwdriver on that washer in a N-S-E-W kind of hit or X the points of tap from one side to X over to a point you made a pattern of taps to square the sleeve down to the point the washer is home'd as is the sleeve inside the leg.

Seal Install: I took the old seal, shoved a screwdriver shaft thru the hole, walked up to a grinding wheel and began to center the seal with my gloves on, so the seal now spins and rubber material is being chewed away more uniformly. I keep dropping the seal down into the leg until there is no more resistance but falls in. I now have my seal installer tool part 1.

I now cut off some pvc pipe slide it down the tube and if I cut the pvc, I have a hammering of the extended pvc above the tube so I can hammer on the pvc pipe, this is my installing tool #2.

If I am careful, have a rawhide mallet, I can walk and tap the old seal as I [do not us the pcv], but hammer the new seal around the leg. I better cock one side in, hold that with my thumb and hammer the rest of the seal in a second way, if not willing to buy some pvc as the 2nd part of the tool installer.

New seal prep: Personally I like a dry seal installed. If you rather grease the seal or the seal comes pre-greased, I find my way of dry install does not cause seal damage, nor leaks down the road or I'd have a 'comeback.' This way I know it works for me. In fact, the new seal is going to wipe that tube clean, so before you lay it on top of the leg, lift it back up and clean the dirty ring it left under the seal.

I use brake clean with the spray tube attached. I can push that gray matter right out the bottom of that assembly screw hole and it's so clean, no oil rez from gas or... Kero my A. :roll:

I use brake clean to soften the sealer on the hex bolt and sealing washer. The sanction tube and spring are also dry of oil just by evap of the cleaner. Kero :loony: That says my sanction tube threads are oil dry, I can apply yamabond, hondabond, h-d engine case sealer on the fork assembly bolt. My [used] copper crush washer and the sealer will keep that fork from leaking once assembled.


:2thumbs: Have fun.

 

[Mr. Wright]

Do it just like he shows, I did mine and it went together quite well.