fork oil drain plug

Energy One

JeffM

Active Member
Not trying to hijack the thead, but too bad.
I have about 25,000 klm on my K9, i had my forks changed from the std HD fork back to new 12" overs (Australian design rules), so all my bushings should be ok, i was just going to change the fork oil. Several threads say take the full assembly out, invert and drain.
Some say remove the front axle and drain via the socket head bolt hole in the bottom of the fork leg.
My question is: Can the later method be used without upsetting anything inside the lower leg? And will 20 weight oil be good?
 
For a service change just pull the damper bolt, you have to pull the axle, and fork cap. Let it drain out, replace crush washer on damper bolt, put a small dab of silicone on the bolt threads and put the bolt back in with 20-25ftlbs of torque. 20 or 30 depending on your preference.
 

JeffM

Active Member
Hi Curtis,
Thanks for that, i did have a go at this method but unfortunatly could not undo the pointy thingy's on the bottom of the legs, so i have done the whole strip. Glad i did, found one of my fork caps 3 turns out, left leg oil black and right leg oil still clear also without the forks on i have excessive neck movement, so while i am there i will pull that apart and regrease. Once i decided to pull the forks out it only took 10 min on my own so it is not a big job.
 

JeffM

Active Member
I didn't.
I just removed the forks from the trees individually, removed the top caps and inverted the forks, Points can stay there till i need to do a rebuild (Another 20,000 KLM), then i will have to distroy them to get them out I guess.
I think i will add 30 wt oil as the roads are bloddy rough here, and i don't usually ride too slowly.
 

JeffM

Active Member
Yeh Rob, and i have had them apart to change from Fatboy Tubes back to 12" overs (std) 3 years ago. I know your thinking WTF:eek:, it's all to do with what we need to do to get them approved to register here in Australia, if you have 3 hours i can tell you about all the other shit we have to swim through as well:argue:, so once we have them they are very loved and reveared :whoop::2thumbs:.
 

Marky-Marc

Well-Known Member
Also, if you're doing your forks, check your handlebar bushings as well...mine were shot.....got some from Curtis.....
 

JeffM

Active Member
Your talking about the rubber between the top tree and the bars i think.........yes?
If yes mine are only 6mths old, i do change them every year, but not yet 6mths to go.
As the Duce trees are solid mount (originally) i had to drill them out to fit the rubbers, this chews them out regularly, so i have a box of spares that i get from my local HD shop for free.
 

Mr. Wright

Knows some things
Supporting Member
Just wanted to add to this thread. When I tore down to repaint this last winter, I turned my forks upside down in a drain pan to change the oil. They were not leaking before I did this. A couple hundred miles after putting everything back together, oil started pouring out of the seals. I pulled them apart to rebuild them and found that the sludge, that would normally stay in the bottom od the lowers, ran up into my seals and destroyed them. I do not recommend turning the forks upside down to drain the oil. Use the bolt on the bottom of the tube to drain the oil.
 

BWG56

Guru
I just changed mine from the bottom also after 15K miles and the oil was nasty and stank. I dumped the excess oil that would be left over from the 2-16oz. bottles in first and left it pull some more of the old shit out. Bigdogtech01 recommended HD Screaming Eagle Heavy, which is 30wt. The ride is completely different, I will change oil everytime I change the front tire from now on.
 
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