Fluids for bdm chopper 05 SSW 117

So, i want to learn myself and not rely on others and do my old fluid changes.

what do i need for my dog?

1)Primary , what do i use and how much, and how
2)tranny , what do i use and how much and how
3)oil, what do i use and how much and how
4)bake fluid dot 05.

Keep in mind , i've never done this before . i'd like to have a step by step
guide i can print off as i'm doing it. I want to do it " by the book"

Want to keep dog in tip top shape.

Thanks to everyone.

& GOD BLESS.

PS. i have the arlen ness 90degree velocity stack.
anyone know if the s&s filters on there website will fit? S&s site says
their id is 2/7/16 x4inches.

my bike is stored and don't haVE access to measuring the id (inside diamter) of filter to know.
I want to order the s&s logo rain black rain boots for the filter. I think
they look awesome. Besides i drive in the rain.
 

mittens

Active Member
I acctually was searching for this my self, and while there is ALOT of threads on it, not very specifics, just peopel arguing brands and shit.

This is my plan so far (for 2004 Chopper 107/baker).... people are welcome to chime in.

Motor---Synthetic Oil / 20w50 (3.75 Quarts) (Pick your brand)

Primary---NONE SYNTHETIC 80w Golden SPectro (32oz=1 quart) (I am told never use synthetic with the clutch)

Tranny---Synthetic 75-140 (20oz) (pick your brand)
 

coachk

Active Member
Oil...Amsol Syn 20w-50 3qts

Primary-Trans... Spectro Platinum Heavy Duty 75w-140 Primary 32oz..Trans 20oz


.
 

bigdogtech01

Well-Known Member
If you are to change all cavities, it might be best to ride it a few miles just so the transmission oil is a little warm. Otherwise, it takes a while to drain. You can run bike for a few min in garage, but this will not really warm the oil up in the transmission. I like to change the motor oil and primary oil at same time (2000-2500 miles) and transmission at 5000 miles.

-Motor oil I go with regular conventional 20/50 or semi. Bel-Ray and Spectro are good oils. You will need 3qts/L

-Oil filter use an EVO type spin on...I use S&S, made by Mobil 1.

-Primary oil make sure to go with an actual "Primary" type oil. Again, Bel-Ray and Spectro make this and works great. Never any problems with clutch slipping or grabbing like many other oils will do. This takes just 1qt/L or 32oz.

-Transmission I recommend Spectro Full syn 75/140 6 spd oil. It is made for the helical cut gears, making them shift smoother and a lot quieter. This will take around 20oz.

--Start with all cavities warm, and pull drain plugs to drain into pan. You will be pulling a plug from Primary, transmission, oil tank, and the bottom of the crank case. Oil will also come out of the oil filter, so cut a piece of cardboard or something for the oil to run down and into your pan.
I say pull the drain plug on the bottom of the crank case because there is always a few oz's left inside the motor case. Some people use that scavenger thing, but I'm not impressed with them. I feel it's not necessary to use them, and you are wasting a quart of oil. Just make sure that when you put the plugs back in, you use some liquid thread sealant and a very light torque. 4-5 ft lbs.
--Once all oils are drained, put all plugs back in. Make sure bike is upright and level when checking all the fluids....
--Take your oil filter and fill just once with some new 20/50 oil...let the oil settle in filter, rub a light film of oil around the O-ring seal, then tighten by hand.
--Dump 2qts/L of motor oil into oil tank (you will top this off with 3 once you have started motor)
--1qt/L into Primary through inspection cover hole, replace gasket and install cover using blue loctite on bolt threads and only 4 ft lbs of torque.
--20oz of transmission fluid into transmission through dip stick hole. Check level with bike upright, and placing dip stick just inside hole, DO NOT thread into hole to check level. Once you have correct amount, tighten dip stick.
--Now start motor, let run for at least 30 seconds and then shut off.
--Take the 3rd qt of oil and top oil tank off. You should see oil just to the bottom of the fill neck (Unless you have a pre 2005, or a Ridgeback or Pitbull) For the other models listed, you will put 3 qts in and leave it...no real good way of checking these oil tanks.

That should be it...if I missed something, someone will let me know. It's a lot easier to do the work than it is to type this all out :lol:

Another good thing to change are spark plugs, clean or replace air filter, check the rubber plug/s on top of the carb and replace if dry cracked, and lube/adjust cables and clutch, primary chain.

Now that will be $500 please :lol:
:cheers:
 

coachk

Active Member
Andrew...what do you think about me using the same Spectro for both trans and primary.
Should I not have done that?

.
 

Nukeranger

Nukeranger
Supporting Member
I use the following and don't think about anymore. I don't remember anyone arguing. :confused:

Motor - Mobile V-Twin 20W-50
Primary - RevTech High Performance
Transmission - Spectro Heavy Duty Platinum 6 speed Full Synthetic

I always keep some on hand so I don't $$ck it up.:D
 

woodbutcher

Mr. Old Fart member #145
Staff member
Andrew...what do you think about me using the same Spectro for both trans and primary.
Should I not have done that?

.
if you use the same in both, either the primary is gonna be too thick or the trans is gonna be too thin. they are not the same.
 

bigdogtech01

Well-Known Member
if you use the same in both, either the primary is gonna be too thick or the trans is gonna be too thin. they are not the same.
Exactly. I would go with a gear/transmission oil for the transmission, and Primary for Primary. I don't understand why people use anything else. It is around the same price for Primary oil as it is ATF or some other sort. But, the Primary is formulated to be used for the wet clutch and chain. Like I said, I have never seen or heard of an issue with clutch engagement or slippage using actual Primary chaincase oil.
 

jackiev

Member
If you are to change all cavities, it might be best to ride it a few miles just so the transmission oil is a little warm. Otherwise, it takes a while to drain. You can run bike for a few min in garage, but this will not really warm the oil up in the transmission. I like to change the motor oil and primary oil at same time (2000-2500 miles) and transmission at 5000 miles.

-Motor oil I go with regular conventional 20/50 or semi. Bel-Ray and Spectro are good oils. You will need 3qts/L

-Oil filter use an EVO type spin on...I use S&S, made by Mobil 1.

-Primary oil make sure to go with an actual "Primary" type oil. Again, Bel-Ray and Spectro make this and works great. Never any problems with clutch slipping or grabbing like many other oils will do. This takes just 1qt/L or 32oz.

-Transmission I recommend Spectro Full syn 75/140 6 spd oil. It is made for the helical cut gears, making them shift smoother and a lot quieter. This will take around 20oz.

--Start with all cavities warm, and pull drain plugs to drain into pan. You will be pulling a plug from Primary, transmission, oil tank, and the bottom of the crank case. Oil will also come out of the oil filter, so cut a piece of cardboard or something for the oil to run down and into your pan.
I say pull the drain plug on the bottom of the crank case because there is always a few oz's left inside the motor case. Some people use that scavenger thing, but I'm not impressed with them. I feel it's not necessary to use them, and you are wasting a quart of oil. Just make sure that when you put the plugs back in, you use some liquid thread sealant and a very light torque. 4-5 ft lbs.
--Once all oils are drained, put all plugs back in. Make sure bike is upright and level when checking all the fluids....
--Take your oil filter and fill just once with some new 20/50 oil...let the oil settle in filter, rub a light film of oil around the O-ring seal, then tighten by hand.
--Dump 2qts/L of motor oil into oil tank (you will top this off with 3 once you have started motor)
--1qt/L into Primary through inspection cover hole, replace gasket and install cover using blue loctite on bolt threads and only 4 ft lbs of torque.
--20oz of transmission fluid into transmission through dip stick hole. Check level with bike upright, and placing dip stick just inside hole, DO NOT thread into hole to check level. Once you have correct amount, tighten dip stick.
--Now start motor, let run for at least 30 seconds and then shut off.
--Take the 3rd qt of oil and top oil tank off. You should see oil just to the bottom of the fill neck (Unless you have a pre 2005, or a Ridgeback or Pitbull) For the other models listed, you will put 3 qts in and leave it...no real good way of checking these oil tanks.

That should be it...if I missed something, someone will let me know. It's a lot easier to do the work than it is to type this all out :lol:

Another good thing to change are spark plugs, clean or replace air filter, check the rubber plug/s on top of the carb and replace if dry cracked, and lube/adjust cables and clutch, primary chain.

Now that will be $500 please :lol:
:cheers:
Good info - Thanks
 

edspesh

Member
So, i want to learn myself and not rely on others and do my old fluid changes.

what do i need for my dog?

1)Primary , what do i use and how much, and how
2)tranny , what do i use and how much and how
3)oil, what do i use and how much and how
4)bake fluid dot 05.

Keep in mind , i've never done this before . i'd like to have a step by step
guide i can print off as i'm doing it. I want to do it " by the book"

Want to keep dog in tip top shape.

Thanks to everyone.

& GOD BLESS.

PS. i have the arlen ness 90degree velocity stack.
anyone know if the s&s filters on there website will fit? S&s site says
their id is 2/7/16 x4inches.

my bike is stored and don't haVE access to measuring the id (inside diamter) of filter to know.
I want to order the s&s logo rain black rain boots for the filter. I think
they look awesome. Besides i drive in the rain.
K


Treat it right. Redline 20/50 or Mobile 2/50 Synthetic if you go that way. Redline tranny oil. Best of all for Baker trannies. Golden Bear chain lube. Expensive but great stuff. 7/8's of a quart every 2.5K. Good old Harley Dot 5 brake fluid. Best I've come across.
 
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