Fitting on engine

mchllacey

Member
Can anyone tell me what this fitting should go to? It's an elbow to the left of the oil pump. It currently has a rubber plug with a hose clamp on it. It's on a 2006 K-9 . I've owned two other K-9 bikes and don't remember it on them.
Wasn't sure where to Post this, figured it may be an add on lol. Thx.
 

pauly

Active Member
I think it is optional crank case vent. Take the plug out, connect rubber hose to it, point to ground and make sure to put one way valve on the end of the hose.
You can read old posts about the subject.

Paul.
 

mchllacey

Member
1BMF ,it does not go anywhere it has a rubber cap on it.
I would just leave it alone as I'm not one to fix what's not broken.
I'm actually looking for another way to vent crankcase pressure I have the cone aircleaner and large vent from rear cylinder connecting after the carb. And small hose from front cylinder connected before carb on the intake manifold. Yet I develop a leak between primary and engine when I ride any distance. I'm hoping additional ventilation will cure this.
 

mchllacey

Member
I think it is optional crank case vent. Take the plug out, connect rubber hose to it, point to ground and make sure to put one way valve on the end of the hose.
You can read old posts about the subject.

Paul.
I have read the posts I could find on the subject. I just never saw anything positively identifying where the vent was I'll look at it when I get home, put it in a can and fire it up. If it is a vent I'll tie it in to the current crank vent system and see if that cures my leak . I'll let you know after I've completed it or found it wasn't a vent. Thx
 

PROFLYER

SWOLE
You have a leak from the engine and primary or the tranny and primary? Both of those seals are well known issues, but easy to replace. Pull the primary cover and you can get to them both. Good time to put RED on the clutch hub nut and torque it to 150#. Get a new hardened nut/washer from Curtis or HDM. Let it cure overnight before you refill primary. Also make sure the primary vent on the back side of the primary is clean and clear.
 

mleach72

Well-Known Member
I have read the posts I could find on the subject. I just never saw anything positively identifying where the vent was I'll look at it when I get home, put it in a can and fire it up. If it is a vent I'll tie it in to the current crank vent system and see if that cures my leak . I'll let you know after I've completed it or found it wasn't a vent. Thx
You dont want a vent in the crankcase. The breather system on the 117's is designed to keep a vacuum in the engine. A crankcase vent will just cause a vacuum leak. There should be a check valve in the rear breather to let any positive pressure out of the engine, but does not allow air to be pulled into the engine through the rear breather. Big dog claims that this system stops oil mist in the crankcase and provides a better piston ring to cylinder wall seal. I don't know this for sure, but you would think it would boost hp slightly because it reduces drag on the engine. There is no air in the crankcase that the pistons have to push and pull in and out of the breathers.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Yet I develop a leak between primary and engine when I ride any distance.
I'm guessing the primary is closed off from the engine. There is a seal I assume on the left side of the engine. Can't keep loosing one side and filling up the other, right? Doubt if it buckles at the engine case due to breathing. I could see heat expansion and a lost quad-ring at the case.. if harley style... to primary... and guessing here, but no [rubber] memory to follow the expansion. Brittle/hard/quad? And then again, we wipe the bottom clean and leak is a drip straight down? And remember, that's air pushing that drip back so we are saying right under the stator area, or derby cover area?

Cough, Looks like the emission compliance to close the loop? Burn the vapor, balance the crank via intake passage... killed two birds. I think it started as a NASCAR trick turned emissions... balanced the beast.

What the one way valve does is keep the engine clean from dust entering. Stops the flow at the orifice. But here at Meguyveer's 1 ATMO Speed&Weed, we use clear braided line, a drilled hole at the plastic drinking bottle cap for the interference fit; is the line is pushed to the bottom with a diagonal slit at the end of the line. Make an X slit line for the second braided line, or drill it so it slips thru and locks or zip the line at the inside so it won't back out; where that hole is past the contour of the neck of the drinking bottle, and is down a little past that; this being the exit hose zipped to the frame rail. Then at the end of that hose line, drill a hole thru the end of the line so you can stick a piece of cotton ball up the line, a cotter pin or clip/hook style so you stab the cotton from moving and that's you breathing filter.

If you didn't catch it, this is your basic racing catch tank at the breather. For the cheap seats, not the aluminium catch tank with window or tube level display, this is basic tube in/tube out of the plastic bottle. You want clear to see how much oil is being lost or say a blown engine fills that puppy up quick... so you have a way of dumping the excess. The bottle captures what might otherwise be a straight line out; and backwash air flow wise; onto the tire. This more the safe way out of letting the puppy breath old/race style... cough.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
... the 117's is designed to keep a vacuum in the engine.
I see pressure on top of the piston and under the piston. Follow the air in the chamber. This becomes compressed. The comp side, the air is pushing the ring out, and the ring's air gap(s) is that gap of air going down into the crankcase. And let's stop action, meaning, the crankcase right now is at 14.7psi or 1 atmosphere. That means air volume is set. no more air in or out, it's just at 0. Where is the vacuum? The next move, meaning, keep the air in the crankcase as no more air to enter, but look at the ring gap and that speed of that little pressure past the rings... has added more air into what is already displaced... where is the vacuum?

A crankcase vent will just cause a vacuum leak.
C/C is more like a balanced P & V under the pistons, but one goes up the other comes down. Add chamber fulling and here is where open atmosphere at the vent tube goes back to 1atmo is to balance that escaped volume above is now added below. Where is what leak?

Big dog claims that this system stops oil mist in the crankcase and provides a better piston ring to cylinder wall seal.
Said oil pressure is where? Said mist is a constant as is the oil pump. Said crank throws, rod blades mixing it up. The cup sweeper, or breather guillotine closing off and collecting the gulp of oil out of the rods. Where does the mist stop/slowdown. Compression and scraper are still going to wipe it clean even old style engine families, begins with h, ends with n.

I don't know this for sure, but you would think it would boost hp slightly because it reduces drag on the engine. There is no air in the crankcase that the pistons have to push and pull in and out of the breathers.
Drag is swinging crank mass thru oil is the drag. Eliminate it thru vacuum, sure. Where is the equal pressure under both pistons so they move and not be stopped by a closed bubble and bounceseabouncesee?
 

mleach72

Well-Known Member
I see pressure on top of the piston and under the piston. Follow the air in the chamber. This becomes compressed. The comp side, the air is pushing the ring out, and the ring's air gap(s) is that gap of air going down into the crankcase. And let's stop action, meaning, the crankcase right now is at 14.7psi or 1 atmosphere. That means air volume is set. no more air in or out, it's just at 0. Where is the vacuum? The next move, meaning, keep the air in the crankcase as no more air to enter, but look at the ring gap and that speed of that little pressure past the rings... has added more air into what is already displaced... where is the vacuum?


C/C is more like a balanced P & V under the pistons, but one goes up the other comes down. Add chamber fulling and here is where open atmosphere at the vent tube goes back to 1atmo is to balance that escaped volume above is now added below. Where is what leak?


Said oil pressure is where? Said mist is a constant as is the oil pump. Said crank throws, rod blades mixing it up. The cup sweeper, or breather guillotine closing off and collecting the gulp of oil out of the rods. Where does the mist stop/slowdown. Compression and scraper are still going to wipe it clean even old style engine families, begins with h, ends with n.


Drag is swinging crank mass thru oil is the drag. Eliminate it thru vacuum, sure. Where is the equal pressure under both pistons so they move and not be stopped by a closed bubble and bounceseabouncesee?
The breather system isn't really a "breather" system per se. It's a vacuum system. The front breather line is hooked to the manifold. The rear breather has a one-way check valve. This puts a vacuum in the engine. If you unhook the rear breather from the check valve, there will be a vacuum in the hose.
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mchllacey

Member
Thanks for all the info guys I have not done anything to the bike after post as we are having a week long heatwave at the moment 105 yesterday... After the heat is over I had already made a system like Sven had suggested only I used scotchbrite instead of cotton. I'll try this one first then see what it does. And yes Sven the oil does get blown back from where it leaks it is right under the alternator. There's also a couple of bumps for bolts to go through making it difficult to have oil accumulate
 

mchllacey

Member
Finally had a day where the weather wasn't triple digits so I hooked a vac gauge to the fitting and took it for a ride. There was no vacuum , so I hooked up a pressure gauge rode it and there was only a little more than a pound . Ordered outer and inner primary seals . And got a crank seal from the Harley dealership. I'll let you know if that fixes the leak when I get the seals . I also cleaned the area real good and used some white out to mark off places the oil could come from and it appears most of it is coming from the most forward lower bolt on the inner primary.
 

mchllacey

Member
Sorry I had forgot about this post. After our heat wave the state pretty much caught on fire and didn't go out riding in all the smoke. I did take the primary apart after ordering and receiving all the seals . I found that none of the bolts holding the inner primary were torqued tight enough . Once tightened to specs the oil leak is gone.
 
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