First dyno

vej

Active Member
Not sure how your head work is done, but their really opened up then they want higher rpm. My Hillside build was about 134hp/138tq. I wanted more. Society I went from a woods 9F which was a midrange to a S&S 631. Big difference. Might be too radical for you tho. Need to be sure of your valvetrain also.

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With those numbers... ever have any problems with your tranny? If we are saying a DSSC tranny is rated for 120HP, I'd like to know how yours is standing up. Just wondering. Thanks.
 
No longer have the bike. It went a couple years ago when I had my 2nd kid. Tranny was fine but occasionally would pop out of 3rd or 4th gear. 1st and 2nd were fine. I'm sure it would have gone to shit in a matter of time.

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Bhawkins854

Member
I've been having issues with my trans...it's in pecies again, seems my cage bearing under 3rd gear is MIA. Do these transmissions hold after beefing up the case bearings?
 
Patriot defender exhaust, bandit clutch and bearing carrier. Get it all for 1k. As for tranny; if Jim's has a kit. Do it. Otherwise. Rd in Florida can make ur tranny good for about 1700.

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bdm7250

Guru
Lifetime Supporting Member
image.jpeg
Port and polish heads with 2.06 intakes, comp cams valve springs, s&s roller rocker upgrade, decked heads and jugs for 10.5 CR, dual runner intake, Daytona twin tech internal ignition, red shift 626 cam, xxx carb with thunder jet, bandit bruiser clutch, 32 tooth Trans pulley, all the goodies. I agree with the seat dyno, can't help the feeling that a good 2:1 will get the most out of this engine, but the options are so limited. I think 20hp is also a stretch, too many variables. I wish I had a pile of 2:1"s to try and see which one worked best!
A 2:1 will only give you 5 to 10hp, I know this from personal experience, pulled 115.43hp and 124.03 ft lbs with bid radius pipes. Changed to the 2:1's off my AIH got just over 122 hp photo is first pull, can't find my second pull results. This was with Woods 630 cam, S&S dual runner and minor head work, haven't done a pull since other upgrades. Have not had any issues with the Baker trans either, seems that they will handle 120+ hp, I'm sure this also depends on how hard you twist the right grip...
 

john sachs

Well-Known Member
View attachment 33072
A 2:1 will only give you 5 to 10hp, I know this from personal experience, pulled 115.43hp and 124.03 ft lbs with bid radius pipes. Changed to the 2:1's off my AIH got just over 122 hp photo is first pull, can't find my second pull results. This was with Woods 630 cam, S&S dual runner and minor head work, haven't done a pull since other upgrades. Have not had any issues with the Baker trans either, seems that they will handle 120+ hp, I'm sure this also depends on how hard you twist the right grip...
Not necessarily. Depends on what you're comparing it to.
I know of some dual systems that make the same as a decent 2 into 1.
John
 

Mastiff Rider64

Active Member
Supporting Member
Hey guys just adding a little about the Transmission myth of the 120HP DSSC system since at this moment I'm having mine worked on. I recently (July '16) had my engine worked on had heads done, cam work, jugs, carb, whole top end built from scratch and all. My dyno run was 122HP and 134ft-lbs torque, at work now so no paperwork to prove that but that's what it was. But in Feb '17 after only about 1000 miles on new motor mods my front head went. Sent the motor to S&S Cycles to determine the root cause of failure. Come to find out workmanship. And of course the damage to motor is so bad they would rebuild it, but it would be cheaper to buy a new motor. So, I ended up buying a S&S V124, which comes with 128hp and I'm thinking 138ft-lbs torque. Well I seen the post by Curtis about the DSSC system. I contacted him and he confirmed the motor is to much for the trans, but said he is working on a fix for the problem but it may be a while. He suggested going to the new main shaft design and using the hardened shim, nut and washer. So, I called Baker and asked what can I do about beefing up the trans and the guy agreed with Curtis on the things he said to do, but the guy from Baker said the only issue you'd have after the trans mods would be my clutch assembly, because they too will not handle that HP. So, now I'm having to also install the Baker 2.4 Belt drive system. And with all the trans mods, baker belt primary that will make my trans good up to 130 HP. So the Baker guy has said I'll be walking a thin line depending on how I ride. So, guys with beefed up motors if your bike is older than '07 cause mine is an 06, and you've not went to the new shaft design, using the hardened shim, washer and nut to hold the clutch basket on your main shaft, your trans will eventually breakdown.
 

Th3InfamousI

Admin
Staff member
Supporting Vendor
Supporting Member
Hey guys just adding a little about the Transmission myth of the 120HP DSSC system since at this moment I'm having mine worked on. I recently (July '16) had my engine worked on had heads done, cam work, jugs, carb, whole top end built from scratch and all. My dyno run was 122HP and 134ft-lbs torque, at work now so no paperwork to prove that but that's what it was. But in Feb '17 after only about 1000 miles on new motor mods my front head went. Sent the motor to S&S Cycles to determine the root cause of failure. Come to find out workmanship. And of course the damage to motor is so bad they would rebuild it, but it would be cheaper to buy a new motor. So, I ended up buying a S&S V124, which comes with 128hp and I'm thinking 138ft-lbs torque. Well I seen the post by Curtis about the DSSC system. I contacted him and he confirmed the motor is to much for the trans, but said he is working on a fix for the problem but it may be a while. He suggested going to the new main shaft design and using the hardened shim, nut and washer. So, I called Baker and asked what can I do about beefing up the trans and the guy agreed with Curtis on the things he said to do, but the guy from Baker said the only issue you'd have after the trans mods would be my clutch assembly, because they too will not handle that HP. So, now I'm having to also install the Baker 2.4 Belt drive system. And with all the trans mods, baker belt primary that will make my trans good up to 130 HP. So the Baker guy has said I'll be walking a thin line depending on how I ride. So, guys with beefed up motors if your bike is older than '07 cause mine is an 06, and you've not went to the new shaft design, using the hardened shim, washer and nut to hold the clutch basket on your main shaft, your trans will eventually breakdown.
Well you didn't have to go with the baker open primary for clutch purposes.

Bandit makes an upgraded clutch pack which would have handled the extra juice and would have only costed you 1/6th of the price.

Not the open primary is bad...but just throwing that out there for others.

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Big Daddy 72

Custom Street Rod Interiors & Design
I'll have to stop by and talk with Lee again. After my heads were done he gave me a build summary with the flow charts and everything, in the binder there was some reading material that stated "it's not unheard of to lose up to 20hp with drag pipes, get yourself a GOOD set 2 into 1 pipes." Not sure how much truth is to that but it got me thinking after my dyno is all
20 hp is a lot of power when your only talking about 120-130 hp total. On big v-8 making 650 plus, you might see that kind of hp difference going from a small primary to a large primary.

The other thing is your dyno guy should have done some jetting and tuning. I personally think for what youve done to the motor you got some respectable results. Just like Eric said you dont race or ride dynos. Big Question is Are you happy with the tq and hp when you ride it.

A good dyno tuner will be able to squeeze a little more out of and engine that most of us without one. Its a scientific aproach to tuning. It tells you when your tuning if your headed in the right direction. Me personally I dont really care what peek hp or tq is when I have something dynoed I just like using it as a tool to tune with maximum results.
 

Mastiff Rider64

Active Member
Supporting Member
What was the purpose of the build are ya racing it?
No wasn't racing it, I had actually had a valve seat go bad and egg shape the valve guide hole out and ruin the front head in May '16, so I figured since I was doing one head might as well do both, and since in 2011 I had the .600 cam already installed after having my motor switched from the EPA regulated motor (TP Heads, .545 cam, E carb) to the non EPA regulated motor (S&S heads, cam and a lot more) I wanted the performance the cam offered but the only way of doing this was to build the top end.
 

Mastiff Rider64

Active Member
Supporting Member
Well you didn't have to go with the baker open primary for clutch purposes.

Bandit makes an upgraded clutch pack which would have handled the extra juice and would have only costed you 1/6th of the price.

Not the open primary is bad...but just throwing that out there for others.

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Well I went with what Curtis and Baker suggested, Curtis knows these bikes inside and out. Plus I've always wanted an open primary this just gave me the reason to bite the bullet and just complete the bike the way I've always dreamed with a new motor (been wanting one since 2011), new open belt primary (wanted since I seen my first one on a dog 2007) and a rebuilt transmission (really didn't see this one coming but hey everything else was getting worked on why not), so hopefully I can get thru one riding season without any issues (knock on wood). lol
 

Th3InfamousI

Admin
Staff member
Supporting Vendor
Supporting Member
Well I went with what Curtis and Baker suggested, Curtis knows these bikes inside and out. Plus I've always wanted an open primary this just gave me the reason to bite the bullet and just complete the bike the way I've always dreamed with a new motor (been wanting one since 2011), new open belt primary (wanted since I seen my first one on a dog 2007) and a rebuilt transmission (really didn't see this one coming but hey everything else was getting worked on why not), so hopefully I can get thru one riding season without any issues (knock on wood). lol
That's cool.. As long as you like it and I agree with ya they do look good.

I knew Baker wouldn't recommend the Bandit clutch cause they don't make it.

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Mastiff Rider64

Active Member
Supporting Member
That's cool.. As long as you like it and I agree with ya they do look good.

I knew Baker wouldn't recommend the Bandit clutch cause they don't make it.

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Yeah but Curtis didn't recommend it either and I talked to him before Baker. But as many problems I've had with this bike since day one.... I'm just wanting to ride it, not look at it sit in the garage while I save up the money to get it fixed, and not pay someone work on it all the time (yes I know I could do it myself, but I'm an electrician not a mechanic). That last head job done in 2016 cost me close to $2500. And now dropping over another $10,000 on a bike blue book says is about $9,000. Not to mention the $3500 back in 2011 when I went from EPA regulated to non EPA regulated.
 
Hey guys just adding a little about the Transmission myth of the 120HP DSSC system since at this moment I'm having mine worked on. I recently (July '16) had my engine worked on had heads done, cam work, jugs, carb, whole top end built from scratch and all. My dyno run was 122HP and 134ft-lbs torque, at work now so no paperwork to prove that but that's what it was. But in Feb '17 after only about 1000 miles on new motor mods my front head went. Sent the motor to S&S Cycles to determine the root cause of failure. Come to find out workmanship. And of course the damage to motor is so bad they would rebuild it, but it would be cheaper to buy a new motor. So, I ended up buying a S&S V124, which comes with 128hp and I'm thinking 138ft-lbs torque. Well I seen the post by Curtis about the DSSC system. I contacted him and he confirmed the motor is to much for the trans, but said he is working on a fix for the problem but it may be a while. He suggested going to the new main shaft design and using the hardened shim, nut and washer. So, I called Baker and asked what can I do about beefing up the trans and the guy agreed with Curtis on the things he said to do, but the guy from Baker said the only issue you'd have after the trans mods would be my clutch assembly, because they too will not handle that HP. So, now I'm having to also install the Baker 2.4 Belt drive system. And with all the trans mods, baker belt primary that will make my trans good up to 130 HP. So the Baker guy has said I'll be walking a thin line depending on how I ride. So, guys with beefed up motors if your bike is older than '07 cause mine is an 06, and you've not went to the new shaft design, using the hardened shim, washer and nut to hold the clutch basket on your main shaft, your trans will eventually breakdown.
Yep been there and every year I have routine repairs cause I ride it like i stole it... hard to be honest but after heads and tweaking mods everything else snaps and shows how weak and why hotrods love to eat up stock parts on mine...but I am old school and do my own... and love to work on it cause I ride YEAR round and it shows when I buy parts on a 1st name basis and fix it in a couple hours cause I have done it before.. lol but teaches me to chill out and stop popping front tire up and running from the loyal pd.... nothing like a chopper surrounded by baggers at bar and mine is diff.. and has no radio or anything to put a pair of sandals if I owned some lmao... L/R keep it simple...
 
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