exploding battery
- Thread starter Joke•ster
- Start date
not until you verify that is the problem.
Like WoodB said, do your diagnosing, not throw parts at it. Say we have a new battery ready to go. It's not going to blow up you test the charging system. First it has to really boil the liquid inside so that takes tea kettle time either way.
So, with ohm/volt meter in hand, dial the meter to 20v. Start the bike and let it idle. Place the meter prongs + and - clipped/held onto their correct battery posts. Read the volt meter. Anything past 14.7v is going to start the kettle cooking we see 15/16v we rev the engine some... Bingo! Found the problem anything well over 15 volts.
So, with ohm/volt meter in hand, dial the meter to 20v. Start the bike and let it idle. Place the meter prongs + and - clipped/held onto their correct battery posts. Read the volt meter. Anything past 14.7v is going to start the kettle cooking we see 15/16v we rev the engine some... Bingo! Found the problem anything well over 15 volts.
ground pounder
Active Member
voltage regulator
Don't buy any regulator but a cycle electric one. Not cheap but reliable and not a shunt type. Do a search on the sight for the one to buy!!! I went trough 2 of the shunt type ones.
Don't buy any regulator but a cycle electric one. Not cheap but reliable and not a shunt type. Do a search on the sight for the one to buy!!! I went trough 2 of the shunt type ones.
Joke•ster
Active Member
Great advice, thx.
After riding for a good 30 minutes the battery starts to smell. Can only smell it at a light though, that one hour non-stop blew the top right off the battery, lol.
The bike completely went dead immediately with no warning, I coasted into my driveway, thank the battery gods I was close to home
After riding for a good 30 minutes the battery starts to smell. Can only smell it at a light though, that one hour non-stop blew the top right off the battery, lol.
The bike completely went dead immediately with no warning, I coasted into my driveway, thank the battery gods I was close to home
TapioK
Well-Known Member
Great advice, thx.
After riding for a good 30 minutes the battery starts to smell. Can only smell it at a light though, that one hour non-stop blew the top right off the battery, lol.
The bike completely went dead immediately with no warning, I coasted into my driveway, thank the battery gods I was close to home
So you did not have multimeter connected while riding
though boiling battery and not melted posts pretty much shout too high voltage to me. I would check the whole charging system, check "how to" there are instructions.Well if anything, pretty interesting it takes 30 minutes or less to cook the kettle keyput.
I'd ride it in the winter. Have a flood light aimed before the back tire so it melts the snow/ice some. Run a few 100w aimed at your hands for glove warmers. Run a gaggle of xmas lights around the bike and yourself so this keeps you toasty warm and I think the battery will last a lot longer the next time out... no meter checking needed.
:up:
I'd ride it in the winter. Have a flood light aimed before the back tire so it melts the snow/ice some. Run a few 100w aimed at your hands for glove warmers. Run a gaggle of xmas lights around the bike and yourself so this keeps you toasty warm and I think the battery will last a lot longer the next time out... no meter checking needed.
:up:
cdogg556
Guru
Sven, your cracking me up!:roll::roll::roll:Well if anything, pretty interesting it takes 30 minutes or less to cook the kettle keyput.
I'd ride it in the winter. Have a flood light aimed before the back tire so it melts the snow/ice some. Run a few 100w aimed at your hands for glove warmers. Run a gaggle of xmas lights around the bike and yourself so this keeps you toasty warm and I think the battery will last a lot longer the next time out... no meter checking needed.
TapioK
Well-Known Member
:2thumbs:
Well if anything, pretty interesting it takes 30 minutes or less to cook the kettle keyput.
I'd ride it in the winter. Have a flood light aimed before the back tire so it melts the snow/ice some. Run a few 100w aimed at your hands for glove warmers. Run a gaggle of xmas lights around the bike and yourself so this keeps you toasty warm and I think the battery will last a lot longer the next time out... no meter checking needed.
:lol::roll::roll::roll::roll:
There are 3 events occurring:
1. AC = Begins.
2. VR = Converts.
3. DC = Ends.
AC in its natural form = +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-
DC coverts to =
---------- ~ Battery Post
++++++++ ~ Battery Post
AC Travels = < This way and that way ><><><><><>
DC Travels = > This way only >>>>>>>
AC out the alternator is traveling <><><><><>
VR captures > is a given. VR captures < as well and the one is more or less spun around or converted to travel >>>> as the other direction was >>> this way to begin with.
DC is the separation of a chemical reaction between plates is + sits at this end and - sits at that end.
Of course there is a 'for every action...,' that movement is still AC as in a balance of pings back and forth. And it can be measured.
However, I am getting to the 'Why?' part that the OP was wondering. The electrical system is just 3 fundamental moves to think about is who is the problem in all this?
Why it's AC. No... It is putting out full kettle boil me out and pop goes the we sell new batteries is go get one.
Why it's the VR. Yes... It is not converting the other wire for DC direction, nor can it control the voltage. It says; look at the 2 wires out of the stator is for example saying, 16 amps is one wire, 16 equals the other, 32 amps of voltage is my battery would last longer if 16 was cooking that puppy so I'm going to remove or plug up that one prong out the stator and run 16 amps. My new battery blows @ 30min X's 32 amps.
Why, if my math is right, I can run 16 amps X's 60min before the battery blows.
Signed,
Never ask me why... Why not? This one is for franco. The OP better close this question and give up the who in the loop is it?
Basically, yes.
Remember, even though that was headed in the battery of 32 amps? It still had to pass thru the VR and this drops current. It still is being separated in the battery, but say the battery is now the resistor/converter in a way. This is 16v out the battery and the rest is kettle'ing some liquid in a boiled state.
The lights are still in a math kind of rated for, 'uses so much voltage' or it burns out. So no, a 12v bulb cannot last against 16v+ of input or more at it. We are handcuffed to Ohm's laws or the house burns down, the battery blows, you get knocked on your feet you plug something in, etc.
How could you sort of answer your own question I quoted and not buy the volt-reg with the new battery? Right now, your bike is a rolling battery charger, not a balanced kind or start riding as designed. You have a failed part that is causing you to keep buying batteries:
1. Not the Battery = Works for 30 minutes and that means it still worked in that time-frame.
2.. Not the Stator/Rotor = That is working beautifully as it blows bulbs and battery tops.
3. It's the VR = This says it cannot regulate; is it a bridge alright... bridges both lanes to boil the batt and is not regulating the voltage ~ BINGO is the WHY!
