Exhaust Question

Energy One
I Just bought a 2008 mastiff. Bike has a vance & hines big radius exhaust. When I got the bike there were no baffles in it . I didn't like the decal pop or growling when shifting so I ordered a set of baffles from vance & hines. I put the baffles in and now the bike seems a little difficult to start cold. I give it two twists on the throttle. But it seems to crank a long time before starting. Before I put the baffles in it started almost instantly. Just wondering with the added back pressure is there something I need to adjust. Thanks In Advance
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
I Just bought a 2008 mastiff. Bike has a vance & hines big radius exhaust. When I got the bike there were no baffles in it . I didn't like the decal pop or growling when shifting so I ordered a set of baffles from vance & hines. I put the baffles in and now the bike seems a little difficult to start cold. I give it two twists on the throttle. But it seems to crank a long time before starting. Before I put the baffles in it started almost instantly. Just wondering with the added back pressure is there something I need to adjust. Thanks In Advance
Yes you will need to readjust your carb

Most likely your idle fuel ratio needs to be adjusted a bit and you might have to turn up the idle a hair.

If you have hard starts just turning that idle screw 1/8-1/4 turn should help.

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bigkelk9

Well-Known Member
I Just bought a 2008 mastiff. Bike has a vance & hines big radius exhaust. When I got the bike there were no baffles in it . I didn't like the decal pop or growling when shifting so I ordered a set of baffles from vance & hines. I put the baffles in and now the bike seems a little difficult to start cold. I give it two twists on the throttle. But it seems to crank a long time before starting. Before I put the baffles in it started almost instantly. Just wondering with the added back pressure is there something I need to adjust. Thanks In Advance
I have the same issue, I just need to change my jets and readjust the carb, which I have never done on a bike before.. so when I get to it I'll tell ya how it goes.. gimme any kinda carb for a car and I can do wonder with it.. this is a whole different world for me.. lol
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
I have the same issue, I just need to change my jets and readjust the carb, which I have never done on a bike before.. so when I get to it I'll tell ya how it goes.. gimme any kinda carb for a car and I can do wonder with it.. this is a whole different world for me.. lol
Should have asked me... I would have adjusted your carb at dream machines and walk ya through it. Takes less than 5 min.

I even had the screwdriver in my pocket because i wasn't sure if I was going to need adjust mine since that was the first ride.

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bigkelk9

Well-Known Member
Should have asked me... I would have adjusted your carb at dream machines and walk ya through it. Takes less than 5 min.

I even had the screwdriver in my pocket because i wasn't sure if I was going to need adjust mine since that was the first ride.

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Ya ass... my bike starts great and runs great.. it's just the popping that drives me nuts.. lol.. it wasn't until a few months ago that I was told not to use the enricher knob when starting.. lol.. that made a world of difference
 

bigkelk9

Well-Known Member
Never use enrichener even when I started the pitbull after uncovering it from sitting in Carl's speed shop for 4.5 months all it took was two twists of the throttle and one push of start and it fired and idled perfect immediately
I never had to, I just assumed that's how it was supposed to be.. now the bike starts so much better that I dont.. lol..
 

PROFLYER

SWOLE
Guys take a look at that S&S doc quickly. You'll notice on item #11 it says "if the S&S Teardrop (stock) air cleaner is being replaced with an aftermarket air cleaner be sure to remove the auxiliary bowl vent screw (#14 in the pic above).

Anyone done that? Most of us run aftermarket stacks or air cleaners...I have a full built XXX carb, I wonder if they pulled it out. What does that do? Could that be giving some of us fits?
 

Srodden

Well-Known Member
Guys take a look at that S&S doc quickly. You'll notice on item #11 it says "if the S&S Teardrop (stock) air cleaner is being replaced with an aftermarket air cleaner be sure to remove the auxiliary bowl vent screw (#14 in the pic above).

Anyone done that? Most of us run aftermarket stacks or air cleaners...I have a full built XXX carb, I wonder if they pulled it out. What does that do? Could that be giving some of us fits?
2011 Mastiff I run the V&H 2into2 pulled original baffles out installed thunder monster baffles also have K&N reusable air filter installed. I have a 29.5 and 72 jets no issues starting or cruising.
 

Spikes05

Member
Guys take a look at that S&S doc quickly. You'll notice on item #11 it says "if the S&S Teardrop (stock) air cleaner is being replaced with an aftermarket air cleaner be sure to remove the auxiliary bowl vent screw (#14 in the pic above).

Anyone done that? Most of us run aftermarket stacks or air cleaners...I have a full built XXX carb, I wonder if they pulled it out. What does that do? Could that be giving some of us fits?
You only have to remove the auxiliary bowl vent screw if your aftermarket air cleaner doesn't have the bowl vent built in. I have the S&S Dual Runner tuned induction air cleaner and the bowl vent is built in.


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Tried to adjust carb. idle mixture screw all the way in and bike still runs. I can get it started but seems to be flooding. Once warmed up it seems to run ok except for some slight backfire . Just wondering what next step may be?????
 

Spikes05

Member
Tried to adjust carb. idle mixture screw all the way in and bike still runs. I can get it started but seems to be flooding. Once warmed up it seems to run ok except for some slight backfire . Just wondering what next step may be?????
Are you sure that it's the idle fuel mixture screw that you are turning all the way in? Because it shouldn't idle with it turned all the way in and when you say all the way is it seating meaning that you can't adjust it any further? Or are you possibly turning the accelerator pump screw? You should not start making any adjustments to the carb until your bike is completely warmed up anyway. The idle fuel mixture screw is the big brass one on top of the carb slightly to the left of center.


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Bike was warmed up when I made adjustments. It was the idle mixture screw. Turned it all the way in and bike still ran. Didn't want to crank on it.
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Bike was warmed up when I made adjustments. It was the idle mixture screw. Turned it all the way in and bike still ran. Didn't want to crank on it.
Well that idle mixture screw is easily damaged if someone turned it too hard. The damage is to the pump body and makes it so that doesn't really work anymore.

XXX carburetors actually has a service just for fixing that issue.



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RRRUFF

Well-Known Member
Guys take a look at that S&S doc quickly. You'll notice on item #11 it says "if the S&S Teardrop (stock) air cleaner is being replaced with an aftermarket air cleaner be sure to remove the auxiliary bowl vent screw (#14 in the pic above).

Anyone done that? Most of us run aftermarket stacks or air cleaners...I have a full built XXX carb, I wonder if they pulled it out. What does that do? Could that be giving some of us fits?
Yea I had too to get rid of the stumble when I accelerated at mid RPM.
 
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