Engine Rattle (slash vibration)

Energy One

Mallito

Member
I had the same problem with a skipping belt and let it adjust again and more tension
Noting helped so i decided to change the belt
We found the problem that the bolt on one side of the rear brigde was snapped
which bolt is that where does it go? hmm
 

dentdude36

Banned
:chopper:will do but first I need to solve this rattle issue, I can ride it as is without romping on it which is fine but I like the bike so I want it solved then go for the open belt drive
Well did you figure out the problem? And yes the open primary is definitely the best upgrade that can be done to these bikesAA272FEB-9863-4E87-A5FB-325872F863F4.jpeg
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Here is where you'd assume you ride it around but on such and such occasion you have a bang/vibe/unknown noise coming from the bike. Here is where you'd assume you keep riding the bike not having any other problem with noise, so you, or say I to rule out any backing out of hardware if the noise is sounding normal when riding, right?

Vibe wise, we walk around the 360° of eyes meeting any frame to engine/trans points or hardware etching causing powdering. If something is loose, makes noise, I have to apply for every action a reaction = Paint etch/hardware etch/surface etch. It's that rubbing back and forth that leaves the friction behind. Gotta have 4 eyes in the forensic. Bring her out to the garage or buddy a beer and have him look too in the sip of things LOL.

For me? I'd eliminate a compression test to see who has the torque, or is it the second pulse around on said cylinder again, that induces the vibe. Where as the next fire off is not so... chasing one's tail in the low rpm momentum of it.
 

Mallito

Member
:oldwtf:
Here is where you'd assume you ride it around but on such and such occasion you have a bang/vibe/unknown noise coming from the bike. Here is where you'd assume you keep riding the bike not having any other problem with noise, so you, or say I to rule out any backing out of hardware if the noise is sounding normal when riding, right?

Vibe wise, we walk around the 360° of eyes meeting any frame to engine/trans points or hardware etching causing powdering. If something is loose, makes noise, I have to apply for every action a reaction = Paint etch/hardware etch/surface etch. It's that rubbing back and forth that leaves the friction behind. Gotta have 4 eyes in the forensic. Bring her out to the garage or buddy a beer and have him look too in the sip of things LOL.

For me? I'd eliminate a compression test to see who has the torque, or is it the second pulse around on said cylinder again, that induces the vibe. Where as the next fire off is not so... chasing one's tail in the low rpm momentum of it.
:oldwtf: uh a little confused there but I haven't had time to check or ride her and I want to get a table so I can lift her and take my time to check under for loose bolts or anything else but the power is there it just feels like it wants to rip the engine out when I romp open throttle on her & the power is amazing compared to my 2010 roadglide.
 

HMAN

I just like my Freedom
Supporting Member
You will have a tough time with the trans bolts. They are on the other side of the oil tank. Gotta drop IT to even get a wrench on them. Keep us posted.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Hand/Foot application method:

Take said hunk of flat iron plate/healthy screwdriver shaft; go under the trans area and force the trans to the rear wheel. Go to the belt drive and push on the top of the drive belt and watch the trans move toward the engine. Ear at Wrinkled Wanker's Cycle Shack, we step on a lot a'shit, let alone our ball's dragging the ground, tripping over the Sven Sack Lingo.

Hand/Foot does not matter, choose either app, it's the method used to now go over to the swing arm area. Note the pivot point of the swing to frame. Belt this area the same, but kick the rear tire in the one direct. Did the rear belt at the top rung do what ? Say you started with the left side kick/push of hand, the top rung drops, right? If you kicked to the belt side, right side says belt rises. Ear me out here at Wanker's Sack Shack, Sven the dick farmed out the rear end to us so say the engine didn't move, trans didn't move, swing bearings showed no movement.

Back to engine drive belt. Push the whole clutch outer basket to the rear wheel. Watch top belt rung rise. Push outer basket to the engine, watch top rung drop. You figure engine is quiet, no complaint when riding normally so rule out engine bearings, right? I'd say, if it's not a bearing, not a bolt, whathell is left?
 
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Mallito

Member
Hand/Foot application method:

Take said hunk of flat iron plate/healthy screwdriver shaft; go under the trans area and force the trans to the rear wheel. Go to the belt drive and push on the top of the drive belt and watch the trans move toward the engine. Ear at Wrinkled Wanker's Cycle Shack, we step on a lot a'shit, let alone our ball's dragging the ground, tripping over the Sven Sack Lingo.

Hand/Foot does not matter, choose either app, it's the method used to now go over to the swing arm area. Note the pivot point of the swing to frame. Belt this area the same, but kick the rear tire in the one direct. Did the rear belt at the top rung do what ? Say you started with the left side kick/push of hand, the top rung drops, right? If you kicked to the belt side, right side says belt rises. Ear me out here at Wanker's Sack Shack, Sven the dick farmed out the rear end to us so say the engine didn't move, trans didn't move, swing bearings showed no movement.

Back to engine drive belt. Push the whole clutch outer basket to the rear wheel. Watch top belt rung rise. Push outer basket to the engine, watch top rung drop. You figure engine is quiet, no complaint when riding normally so rule out engine bearings, right? I'd say, if it's not a bearing, not a bolt, whathell is left?
ok gotta I will give it a shot and post soon
 
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