Eletrical - EHC ????

[Staffy]

Here's one just for the record. Am going to be riding for now - cause I can :2thumbs: and will probably spend some time over the winter or at the dealer trying to fix this (am terrible when it comes to eletricals..but the EHC that's definately not my domain:lol: :lol: ) - am putting this out there as an FYI and just in case any of you have experienced this and has a quick fix...(My bike - 2007 - K9)

1A) Turn the ignition key - system does a check....all led's on the EHC (fault lights) are good (one possible execption...which I get to at the bottm of this message)

1B) On the speedo - Oil and Netural led's on (you can hit the left and right turn signal's and they work perfectly - both, actual front and rear signal lights AND the indicators (led's) on the Speedo)

1C) Hit the RUN button, the ignition led on the EHC lights up (as it is supposed to) and all is good....:lol: :lol:

2A) Hit the start button.....:angry: :angry: Bike fires up and runs :up: :up: ....BUT the OIL and LEFT turn led's (on the speedo) stay ON....(the oil pressure is fine...as I like to put it TRUST ME..:lol: :lol: )

2B) Hit the LEFT turn signal and the OIL light (on the speedo)blinks...:roll: :roll: :roll: the actuall front and rear signals work and the LEFT TURN led (on the speedo) continues to stay ON...

Bike runs...but that's fustrating - I think its some sort of a short in the speedo (there seems to be a ton of moisture in there)... Any suggestions - but NO I preffer NOT to pull the tank and speedo at this time...just ride.

Lastly the "slight exception" in 1A - when you turn the ignition on and before hitting the "run" button".....the ignition fault led has a "VERY FAINT, BUT RAPID" flicker...this can only be noticed in the dark...yes was working on it one night...(and NO this is not a reflection of the "power on" led which flashes when the ignition is turned on...made sure I covered that and checked again)....not sure what to make out of it....

So its out there....suggestions and help is truly appreciated.....
THANKS STAFFY

 

[bdmridgeback]

Reminds me of BIG HOUSE's bike, HID wouldn't work until after he replaced his defective speedo and the HID started working!!!!

I KNOW A CURE FOR THAT PROBLEM STAFFY!!!

... AND IT CURED ALL MY PROBLEMS SO FAR!!!:roll:

 

[Staffy]

Reminds me of BIG HOUSE's bike, HID wouldn't work until after he replaced his defective speedo and the HID started working!!!!

I KNOW A CURE FOR THAT PROBLEM STAFFY!!!

... AND IT CURED ALL MY PROBLEMS SO FAR!!!:roll:

no no no...not for NOW!!!!:lol: :lol: :lol:

Good for you....:up: :up: :up: :up:

 

[Gas Man]

Yeah sounds like a bad connection in the trim ring or the ehc. May want to take the speedo bucket apart and check the board.

 

[slowrower]

And while you have it off waterproof it.

 

[Gas Man]

Oh yeah
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/how/955-saving-your-plate-light-water-damage.html

 

[Throttle Jockey]

I'm going to lean on the hand controls on this one. They are 60 dollar parts. To me ot sounds as if you may have gotten both your hand control boards wet. From either riding in the rain or washing it. Also the splices under the tank need to be checked for problems.

TJ

 

[Fibersnake]

I would also lean towards the Tach Board, possibly having a bad connection or even broken connection on the very small and fragil wire to the solder points. I have had similar things occur, once after coming back from a Ride with many of the other folks on here. Tach board did strange things but ran fine.

Got home took the speedometer and tach out, found that one of the wires to the solder joint was broken and due to the stiff wire and position it was still touching somewhat as well as touching the adjoining pin. Very carefully cleaned it up, de-solder the hole where it went, and resoldered. Now problems since.

Also if it just the slight bit of moisture on it, sometimes does similar things. Good idea to waterproof and the fine How To on here is a great place to start.

Good luck and let us know what you find out.

 

[Staffy]

OK...OK....OK..You are making me go there....:lol: :lol: May take it apart this weekend....somebody say NO...I think it the speedo...will keep you posted....
YES I did ride in the rain (make that got caught in the rain...)
Thanks - will keep you posted.

 

[Staffy]

Follow Up...

Here's a quick follow up - So this winter I ripped the Tach Board and EHC - sent it off to BDM.
I WANT TO STATE AS MANY US HAVE - THE CUSTOMER SERVICE AT BIG DOG HAS JUST BEEN PHENOMINAL.
“No Trouble Found” was the diagnosis, so back came the EHC, Tach Board and a NEW cable (re the cable, just to be on the safe side as Gas pointed out). All was good had the flash updated as well. Put everything back together including a chromed speedo housing (bling!!!) and a Dual Coil Setup (more bling!!!).
Fired up and bike is running better than ever. In addition (MORE BLING!!!) changed to the Roland Sand Venturi Air cleaner, XXX Carb and V&H Big Radius pipes – boy-oh-boy this combo WORKS BEST for me. I will also mention NOT a SINGLE pop on de-acceleration – yes you heard it right NOT A SINGLE POP.
BUT there’s always a but…..Decided to fire the dog up one day – I released the start button before the engine fired up. The speedo was in the processes of doing its sweep and I hit the start button again – yup…you guessed it - the symptoms (read the begining of the thread) appeared AGAIN!!!! Shut the bike off, pull the key out, return the next day - ALL IS GOOD AND BACK TO NORMAL.
Not that this issue prevents the bike from firing up or me riding but boy am I confused and curious to find out what's going on. (Given that all is good right now wouldn’t know where and how to start looking).
So throwing it out there – Night Train is sure to pitch in with some valuable suggestions and advice.

 

[Raywood]

Here's a quick follow up - So this winter I ripped the Tach Board and EHC - sent it off to BDM.
I WANT TO STATE AS MANY US HAVE - THE CUSTOMER SERVICE AT BIG DOG HAS JUST BEEN PHENOMINAL.
“No Trouble Found” was the diagnosis, so back came the EHC, Tach Board and a NEW cable (re the cable, just to be on the safe side as Gas pointed out). All was good had the flash updated as well. Put everything back together including a chromed speedo housing (bling!!!) and a Dual Coil Setup (more bling!!!).
Fired up and bike is running better than ever. In addition (MORE BLING!!!) changed to the Roland Sand Venturi Air cleaner, XXX Carb and V&H Big Radius pipes – boy-oh-boy this combo WORKS BEST for me. I will also mention NOT a SINGLE pop on de-acceleration – yes you heard it right NOT A SINGLE POP.
BUT there’s always a but…..Decided to fire the dog up one day – I released the start button before the engine fired up. The speedo was in the processes of doing its sweep and I hit the start button again – yup…you guessed it - the symptoms (read the begining of the thread) appeared AGAIN!!!! Shut the bike off, pull the key out, return the next day - ALL IS GOOD AND BACK TO NORMAL.
Not that this issue prevents the bike from firing up or me riding but boy am I confused and curious to find out what's going on. (Given that all is good right now wouldn’t know where and how to start looking).
So throwing it out there – Night Train is sure to pitch in with some valuable suggestions and advice.

Could be battery related as most of the issues are. How old is it now and has it been retained on a tender through the winter?

Hope it all works out for you.

 

[Fibersnake]

I would still check that Tach Board real close. The wiring going from the harness connectors into the board are very small and they are soldered into the board. Right where they come out it is stiff and it just takes a small break in the solder joint or wire and the symptoms you have can occur.

I had it happen to my board a couple of time along with some other strange crap. Found that it was broken at the solder joint on the board and was getting intermediate continuity. What would occur is that I looked at the board and it looked fine but when it was put back in or ran, it would do almost the same thing and it was due to the vibrations were casuing bad connection on the solder terminal, however due to the stiffness of the wiring (little section from where it connects to backbone going into tach ring), it looked fine.

The last time it occured was last year coming back from a ride for Rolling Thunder on the way from enjoyng the time with the boys in College Park MD. When I got home me and my brother took it out, checked it over and found the break (you could not notice it until you gently moved the wire around and then one part was broken on the solder joint but would still touch it giving bad connections). We got out the soldering iron, solder sucker and heated it very carefully and the cut the end off the wire, trim it very small and resolder it in to the hole on the board where the old joint had broken.

When went to check it, no more weird light including the turn signals flashing the or dim oilt, etc. Been good for at least 1000 miles after that.

Also it had rained when we were cmong back so it was more wet than idea and that may have made it more pronouced.

Still my guess for mine did almost if not exactly the same thing and not saying that BD did not do a good job, but the way it was broke it was very easy to have it test out good and look good until it moved just a pubic hair off. Was worse when it started.

Other than that, the battery ideas are always an area to look at as well as other. EHC IMHO is not likely do to the symptoms and also the common ooint for the Oil and Turn Signal are right up on that tach board. Mine also had the high beam indicator showing some time even though it was on low beam. All things worked properly (horn, lights, Oil pressure, neutral, etc-just light did not indicate properly).

Good luck and let us know how you made out.

Oh if I recall right the boards are around $90.

 

[Staffy]

Could be battery related as most of the issues are. How old is it now and has it been retained on a tender through the winter?

Hope it all works out for you.

Ray - GOOD POINT. When diagnosing the problem with Big Dog - and looking at the EHC data they too mentioned it was probably the BATTERY. To answer your question I have had the bike since August 07 (not sure how long the dealer had it before then) so lets say about 20-24 months.

Now the only reason I didn't pay SERIOUS attention to this point is the fact that the engine cranks up fine EVERY time. AM I WRONG WITH THIS ASSUMPTION? And yes, I do put it on a trickle charger when not in use.

Speaking of charging - Well here is something I do and am hoping one of you can tell me if its myth or fact.... I am of the understanding that one should NEVER NEVER try and charge a FROZEN battery. Now I live in NJ and in the garage it gets below freezing ever so often during winter. So I remove my battery, give it a place of honor within the house, where it is much warmer. Place it on a wooden plank and hook it up with a trickle charger. Am I overdoing it and lost my mind or quite the opposite?

 

[bdmridgeback]

I would say that is a good thing to do, It won't hurt. It probably helps the life of the battery a bit.

 

[Staffy]

I would still check that Tach Board real close. The wiring going from the harness connectors into the board are very small and they are soldered into the board. Right where they come out it is stiff and it just takes a small break in the solder joint or wire and the symptoms you have can occur.

I had it happen to my board a couple of time along with some other strange crap. Found that it was broken at the solder joint on the board and was getting intermediate continuity. What would occur is that I looked at the board and it looked fine but when it was put back in or ran, it would do almost the same thing and it was due to the vibrations were casuing bad connection on the solder terminal, however due to the stiffness of the wiring (little section from where it connects to backbone going into tach ring), it looked fine.

The last time it occured was last year coming back from a ride for Rolling Thunder on the way from enjoyng the time with the boys in College Park MD. When I got home me and my brother took it out, checked it over and found the break (you could not notice it until you gently moved the wire around and then one part was broken on the solder joint but would still touch it giving bad connections). We got out the soldering iron, solder sucker and heated it very carefully and the cut the end off the wire, trim it very small and resolder it in to the hole on the board where the old joint had broken.

When went to check it, no more weird light including the turn signals flashing the or dim oilt, etc. Been good for at least 1000 miles after that.

Also it had rained when we were cmong back so it was more wet than idea and that may have made it more pronouced.

Still my guess for mine did almost if not exactly the same thing and not saying that BD did not do a good job, but the way it was broke it was very easy to have it test out good and look good until it moved just a pubic hair off. Was worse when it started.

Other than that, the battery ideas are always an area to look at as well as other. EHC IMHO is not likely do to the symptoms and also the common ooint for the Oil and Turn Signal are right up on that tach board. Mine also had the high beam indicator showing some time even though it was on low beam. All things worked properly (horn, lights, Oil pressure, neutral, etc-just light did not indicate properly).

Good luck and let us know how you made out.

Oh if I recall right the boards are around $90.

Thanks Fiber. Very Very valid points. I will mention I did pull the Tach board did a continuity test on all points as well as looked for "shorts" before sending it out to Big Dog. Looked good, BDM tested the tach as well and said it was good - HOWEVER the one thing I did NOT do is check the connector pins or look for a flaky connection:bang: :bang: :bang: Cannot rule out riding in the RAIN - MOISTURE (my bad)
Fiber as you know its a &$*@#(*$ removing the speedo. I remove the tank as well when working on the speedo. All considered including the fact that it is working for "NOW" I will refrain from re-checking the pins/tach.(just want to ride )

Here's what I propose to do - If it happens again I will REPLACE the battery, just cause I have heard it twice, its been about 2 years and its not too expensive (approx $80-$100). If that fails I will go right to the Tach Board - (next winter)

THANK YOU ALL FOR THE VALUABLE INSIGHT. Will keep you posted.

 

[Fibersnake]

Staffy,

Putting the Battery on the Tender is an excellent idea as well as taking it out and sitting on some wood somewhere. The issue with freezing is true, however if the battery is anywhere near proper condition, it would take a great deal lower temperature that most of us will ever see to freeze one. General if one was to freeze a battery, the batter was in poor shape to begin with and would not be worth saving.

Anyway good luck and hopefully you find the root cause.

 

[Fibersnake]

Staffy,

If you do go digging in on the Tach Board later, from my experience it was very hard to find it at first. If you look at where the wire are solder into the eyelets, there is very little exposed and the damn insulation is almost on top of the solder. With the wire coming together into a shrink tube insultation it is pretty damn stiff. You could almost cut a wire there and do the way it is so stiff and lines up still be making contact.

Was very hard to see on mine but luckily my brother (he is an Electronic Type) mad eme prod deeper and sure as carp it was busted right where the wire went to the eyelet on the solder joint. Like I indicated, got a good electronic solder iron (the type with a very small tip), a suck and a pair of hemostat; heated it up by putting the tip right on the eyelet, sucked out the solder. very very carefully removed just enough of the wire insulation on the wire, tin coated it with solder stuck in eyelet, heated up the eyelet at wire penatration and just a tad dab and that was it.

PITA and even bought a new tach board, but the fix has worked so far so good, so the tach board is a spare for now.

 

[Staffy]

Staffy,

If you do go digging in on the Tach Board later, from my experience it was very hard to find it at first. If you look at where the wire are solder into the eyelets, there is very little exposed and the damn insulation is almost on top of the solder. With the wire coming together into a shrink tube insultation it is pretty damn stiff. You could almost cut a wire there and do the way it is so stiff and lines up still be making contact.

Was very hard to see on mine but luckily my brother (he is an Electronic Type) mad eme prod deeper and sure as carp it was busted right where the wire went to the eyelet on the solder joint. Like I indicated, got a good electronic solder iron (the type with a very small tip), a suck and a pair of hemostat; heated it up by putting the tip right on the eyelet, sucked out the solder. very very carefully removed just enough of the wire insulation on the wire, tin coated it with solder stuck in eyelet, heated up the eyelet at wire penatration and just a tad dab and that was it.

PITA and even bought a new tach board, but the fix has worked so far so good, so the tach board is a spare for now.

Thanks Fiber - If it gets to working on that Tach forget it - I'm sending it to YOU :lol: :lol: You can deal with it and if all fails, send me your spare - JUST KIDDING ...... NOT.....:lol: :lol:
THANKS AGAIN