Electrical problems

shortfuse

Member
So, 2 years ago I put a new regulator in at Sturgis and a new battery, have always had the rotten egg smell! Bought a new battery last year and it's dead so just replaced it with a 510 CCA Throttle X battery. Was out riding last Sat night and sitting at a stop light it's just a rotten egg smell again! Called shop here in town and thinks it may be the stator? Wouldn't it be a regulator problem if it's not controlling the amount of current going to the battery and overcharging it which will in turn fry a new battery? Tested the new battery and it was at 14 or so, running around 12. I'm so tired of issues on these bikes. Every time turn key on it's a problem.

Thanks!
Jason
 

Mallito

Member
So, 2 years ago I put a new regulator in at Sturgis and a new battery, have always had the rotten egg smell! Bought a new battery last year and it's dead so just replaced it with a 510 CCA Throttle X battery. Was out riding last Sat night and sitting at a stop light it's just a rotten egg smell again! Called shop here in town and thinks it may be the stator? Wouldn't it be a regulator problem if it's not controlling the amount of current going to the battery and overcharging it which will in turn fry a new battery? Tested the new battery and it was at 14 or so, running around 12. I'm so tired of issues on these bikes. Every time turn key on it's a problem.

Thanks
Jason
hey buddy I had to replace my Vr when I bought my bike from the dealer[used] and make sure its a shun VR not the normal newer Harley style and once you replace it check with a meter that its charging and not over 14 revving if it goes over or more check the stator it not hard to diagnose the issue. hope this helps and for sure you will get more peeps helping its a great place to ask for help.
 
hey buddy I had to replace my Vr when I bought my bike from the dealer[used] and make sure its a shun VR not the normal newer Harley style and once you replace it check with a meter that its charging and not over 14 revving if it goes over or more check the stator it not hard to diagnose the issue. hope this helps and for sure you will get more peeps helping its a great place to ask for help.
You should not get a Shunt Regulator.
Shunt regulators are old technology.
Buy a Series Style regulator.
CompUFire or Cycle Electric, both are made in the U.S.

CompuFire
 

shortfuse

Member
Not running it's 13.5, running and revved up right @ 14. Appears the regulator is doing it's job. Anyone else experience the rotten egg smell? Like I said only other time was when my old regulator over charged the battery.
 

Mallito

Member
You should not get a Shunt Regulator.
Shunt regulators are old technology.
Buy a Series Style regulator.
CompUFire or Cycle Electric, both are made in the U.S.

CompuFire
So I replaced mine with a shunt compufire and haven't had issues I read up on this and correct me if I'm wrong the shunt is to ground waste current, this is someone's else explaining it also

Shunt VR:
Here is where the 32a rated stator applies. It also applies to a wet type battery or the conventional battery. Simply take 32 and divide by half. Magnetically speaking, N and S are two sweeps @ 360°, meaning, 16v of AC shoots up one wire, and 16v shoots up the other wire. Who would have guessed that stator has one continuous wire in and the other end coming out. 16+16 = 32.

DTT Sequence:
And not in that order. The AC alternates, so a one way diode captures the pulse up, and stops the 16 from reversing. It now holds 16 in a capacitor. The shunt system has to reach a T-Threshold. Once that 14v range reaches that threshold, it T-Triggers the excess. That excess 1.??v has another diode path and this now D-Discharges the excess to ground. That's what a shunt regulator does. Think of a toilet flush. T-Trigger is the handle. T-Threshold is the 1.6gal sitting behind you. D-Discharge is heading down the sewer once you Trigger the handle.

Trigger = Flip is holding the volt from reversing direction out of the capacitor.
Threshold = What is held in capacitor(16) by flip.
Discharge = Flop is to send the excess to ground when flip no longer canmagnetically hold itself down, it flips back and starts all over again like the sequence of the toilet's movement. Make SvenSense to me in the very basics of reverse engineering in SvenThink.


Battery:
At idle, the reg kicks in and feeds the 14+v at the volt meter. This is how you can tell both 16's are putting out equally. This too tells you the DTT machine can feed the taillight/headlight/ign/radio, at that high a voltage(14+) and at that low an rpm (idle).
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Black Series VR:
Here is where you can use any 32a stator, but upgrade to a maintenance free battery. This type BS (battery acid supplied) is all the liquid she wrote. Shunt boils the water out so you keep up with the water level maintenance via screw caps. This DTT box however, will send the excess voltage to ground once the free type battery reaches a T-Threshold. This DTT box more or less keeps the free type battery from boiling out, i.e., E= Heat. Therefore, the 16's are being send directly to ground until the battery drops down in voltage, then the DTT comes back in play like a shunt, meaning, T-Triggers the 16 back on line and then feeds the battery again in the 14v range = 12.8v is the battery voltage sitting static; being fully charged.
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Chrome Billet Series VR:
This DTT machine more or less replicates the Black Series.

Recap:
Shunt reg's keep receiving 16v in and there is a continuous mixing of water and acid thru this type heat (champagne bubble size) cycle. Water needs to be replenished using this type battery-to-shunt style DTT machine design.
Compu-Fire type can redirect 16v to ground: once a T-Threshold is met at the battery. This is so the life cycled fluid does not cook out.

That's how you buy said Battery style-to DTT Box- to Stator.
 
All pertinent information but the reality is people buy maintenance free batteries these days so Shunt regulators are old technology.
The true bottom line is a Series Regulator does a better job of regulating the voltage, Google it as there is quite a bit of info about it out there, which means enhanced electronics life across the board.
 
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