Electrical NIGHTMARE!!!!!!!!!!

Energy One

prairiehorse

Active Member
Ok here goes:
05 Rb...
Kept having electrical issues as per former posts. Replaced wiring (twice before with pdm & blew up both boxes ie:ehc's) with rip kit. Seemed ok but now im running down batteries, or so i thought. Batteries seem to charge fine, hold a charge (i have 3 different ones lowest holds a charge of 12.72V) but all i get when i go to start it is a brrrrrrr..... seems to be coming from the rip box. I dont understand. I have 12v going to the box, but i notice i do NOT have 12v coming from the starter button on the bars to the starter soloniod (0.2V)... replaced starter... no change... Starter works fine out of the bike. WTF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Lost confidence in the bike,,,,left me stranded 3 times now. I have not replaced board in grips om the bars.....maybe it is fried or shorting thus draining battery?

Need a rag and someone who Smokes!!!!!
 

FrankBDPS

Well-Known Member
What you need is a service manual and some guidance from one of the more experienced guys on here. The noise you are hearing could be a relay chattering. What does the battery voltage drop to when you attempt to start the engine?
 

BadDawg Bill

Well-Known Member
First, you won't have 12v on the starter button. The button sends a ground to the starting relay to switch on 12v to the starter. What you need to do (to fix what you have) is take both pos and neg wires off the battery. put an ohm meter between the 2 and see if you have a draw. The needle should not move. If it does you have a pos wire grounding out somewhere draining your battery then the fun starts. You will have to disconnect each pos wire until there is no draw and that will be the bad wire. It could also be the RIP box is damaged. Good luck.
 

prairiehorse

Active Member
Ok thanks guys i will do that. Check for the draws... understand that...
Service manual is not so helpful with the electrical as it mostly pertains to problems with the ehc n stock harness in electrical
 

Ohmster

Kansas Motorcycle Works
The RIP system switches 12vdc through the hand controls, not a ground like the original EHC, so at the PCB header connector you will have 12vdc at the black wire of the header connector instead of ground. You have a warranty on your RIP system so remove the MHC from it and send it back here for me to test it. Send it to KMW/Big Dog Motorcycles 7339 W. 33rd St N Wichita, KS 67205 and I will check it out. Also if you need tech support feel free to call here and ask for me, Jason, at 316-260-8039.
 

BadDawg Bill

Well-Known Member
The RIP system switches 12vdc through the hand controls, not a ground like the original EHC, so at the PCB header connector you will have 12vdc at the black wire of the header connector instead of ground. You have a warranty on your RIP system so remove the MHC from it and send it back here for me to test it. Send it to KMW/Big Dog Motorcycles 7339 W. 33rd St N Wichita, KS 67205 and I will check it out. Also if you need tech support feel free to call here and ask for me, Jason, at 316-260-8039.
The wires leading to the controls are very small so how can they handle 12v?
 

BigDogBro1

Made in the USA
Those small wires can easily handle 12 volts with no problems. The insulation on them can probably handle up to 300 volts.

It's NOT a concern that the voltage is 12 volts but how much current is being drawn thru the wires. The gauge of the wire is the limitation for current draw.

In this case the current is quite low as well...below one amp.

Also, these keypad DOME switches will not handle high current as they are meant to switch signals and not higher power drive circuits.

Hope you learned something new.
 
Last edited:

cdogg556

Guru
Ok here goes:
05 Rb...
Kept having electrical issues as per former posts. Replaced wiring (twice before with pdm & blew up both boxes ie:ehc's) with rip kit. Seemed ok but now im running down batteries, or so i thought. Batteries seem to charge fine, hold a charge (i have 3 different ones lowest holds a charge of 12.72V) but all i get when i go to start it is a brrrrrrr..... seems to be coming from the rip box. I dont understand. I have 12v going to the box, but i notice i do NOT have 12v coming from the starter button on the bars to the starter soloniod (0.2V)... replaced starter... no change... Starter works fine out of the bike. WTF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Lost confidence in the bike,,,,left me stranded 3 times now. I have not replaced board in grips om the bars.....maybe it is fried or shorting thus draining battery?

Need a rag and someone who Smokes!!!!!


I just installed the DOC's ESC in my bike and am extremely happy I went that route! And yes Ker (BWG56) and Franco are the one's that pointed me in the right direction! Lol! Seriously though I read and heard really good things about the ESC before pulling the trigger on it, also they make it for your bike when you order it, it's not sitting around on a shelf somewhere waiting to be sold, not that it matters, but it was nice knowing that it was made for my bike, it took a few weeks to get, but definitely worth it!
Also my right PC board was fried, I tested it by taking the left PC and plugging it into the right harness and immediately everything worked! Those baby's ain't cheap though, they only come in pairs and are $250 plus tax and shipping came to $275!!!! But I am on the road again and off the stand! Lol!:chopper:
 

prairiehorse

Active Member
Ohmster... thanks Jason. I had spoke to you just before sturgis. You were VERY helpful... I am on the road for a bit and just received my new module (with the corrected red and black wires) so i will check it out as you specified. If still not working i will call to trouble shoot and then maybe send in the box for testing. Thank you all for your suggestions and help in getting me running....

Frustrating part is that it works just fine then after it gets warm after a day of riding the next day it seems to have these issues..... WTF
 

BadDawg Bill

Well-Known Member
Those small wires can easily handle 12 volts with no problems. The insulation on them can probably handle up to 300 volts.

It's NOT a concern that the voltage is 12 volts but how much current is being drawn thru the wires. The gauge of the wire is the limitation for current draw.

In this case the current is quite low as well...below one amp.

Also, these keypad DOME switches will not handle high current as they are meant to switch signals and not higher power drive circuits.

Hope you learned something new.
That makes sense. If you are using less than 1 amp.
 
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