Electrical Issues figured out after WP install

BigD07

BigD07

Member
I had recently installed a wires plus kit and started having issues with it after a couple hundred miles. The tach would flash and jump around, bike would cut out and come back on. After many hours of tracing wires and looking for shorts or loose connections and not finding anything, I finally figured out it was the WP ignition switch sent with the kit. I didn't think about it being an issue since it was new but put the new switch in and cleared up all the electrical issues.
 
E

Euge136

New Member
I have only had my bike for about a year now. I am having similar problems starting on my bike. Tach acts a little funny, a little miss here and there, but I am not familiar with the wiring system on my bike. Anyone with sugestions / fixes or locations where I could dig up a wiring diagram for the 04 Ridgeback would be greatly appreciated.
 
Trashman

Trashman

Member
Second or third post I've read regarding possible problems with the key switch from Wire plus. I just finished installing the WP374 kit , with new key switch, on my 2004 Chopper. All works BUT the tach. I've sent an email to wire plus and am waiting on their response. I'm holding off dressing all the wiring until I can figure this problem out. What in the key switch circuit would affect the tach function????
 
BigD07

BigD07

Member
Most of the electronics are powered through the ignition switch. If the contacts inside the switch keep breaking contact it will pulse the system with 12v. Its technically turning the bike off and back on, my switch had the 3rd position totally go out of it. The bike would run fine in the garage but as soon as you took it out thats when it would act up. If you have the WP ignition switch I would throw it away and buy a quality 3 position switch.
 
jkd740

jkd740

Active Member
Mine just started having the same problem on the ride home from FL. I'm planning on replacing the switch this week and hope it clears up a few things.
 
JeffM

JeffM

Active Member
Thats not good news for me i have an new WP and switch arriving any year now, the last thing i need is a dodgy switch.
Has anyone heard anything from WP regarding the switch???

I asumed like most that this switch was the "ducks guts" and would fix all our wow's.

Poor misguilded fool.
 
Th3InfamousI

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
The switch is just a standard Harley sportster key switch that comes with the kit. Kind of odd that you had an issue with it, I assume its an isolated event.
 
BigD07

BigD07

Member
I think there are a few other guys that have had issues with it as well. Mine from day one seemed like a POS the key fit sloppy in it and the barrel assembly was loose in it.

I ordered one of these: https://www.denniskirk.com/drag-specialties/custom-round-key-ignition-switch.ph20245.prd/H20245.sku

NOTE: I am running the Vulcan dual coil set up so I don't have a clearance issue with the ignition switch. I don't know that this style switch would fit with the stock ignition switch housing.
 
Th3InfamousI

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
BigD07 said:
I think there are a few other guys that have had issues with it as well. Mine from day one seemed like a POS the key fit sloppy in it and the barrel assembly was loose in it.

I ordered one of these: https://www.denniskirk.com/drag-specialties/custom-round-key-ignition-switch.ph20245.prd/H20245.sku

NOTE: I am running the Vulcan dual coil set up so I don't have a clearance issue with the ignition switch. I don't know that this style switch would fit with the stock ignition switch housing.
Click to expand...
Yea nobody like loose or sloppy. :D

I'm really thinking about running the Vulcan Dual setup I looked at some posts and some guys say they have fitment issues some dont? :confused:

I assume you need to order the setup with the 1" spacers for the big twins? Did you order the one below, and did you experience any fitment issues?Part # 4145

Dyna Coil Bracket / Ignition Set :: Coil Brackets & Coils :: Motorway Engineering Co.
 
Trashman

Trashman

Member
I see where a lot of guys have installed the WP kits on their bikes in this forum. Seems that with the numbers of installs that have taken place we should be able to narrow down what the issue is or is not not with the tach problem. If I need to purchase a better switch than the HD switch that I purchased with the WP374 kit no big deal, we're not talking about a lot of money and if that IS the problem then thats worth it to me.

My frustrations are that with as many installs that have taken place this problem is just now surfacing with the folks that have recently done the install. Yea I can ride the bike without a tach but I'm one of those guys that likes to have everything working on the bike. Just frustrated that I cannot get the damn tach problem figured out!
 
BigDogBro1

BigDogBro1

Made in the USA
Sorry about the confusion...

Regarding Trashman's issue:

The ignition KEYswitch should have nothing to do with the tach not working if the bike is running otherwise.

If your tach is running intermittently then you need to check the wire connections inside the speedo CUP housing at the annunciator board where the tach driver electronics are located. You need to be ESD grounded when playing with the annunciator PCB or you could zap the tach driver electronics. Disconnect the battery power as well.

There are 3-wires that feeds the annunciator PCB for the tach function. PWR/GND/TACH Signal. If any one of those is loose or has a bad solder connection then the tach display will cutout, baring any WP module problem.

2007 Carb Bike disgrsm, 2004 correctness?
 
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BigD07

BigD07

Member
The key switch does not directly have the tac wire running through it. You get 12v from the battery to the ignition switch when you turn the key to position 1 it supplies power to the ignition and wire + components. So the the ignition switch comes into play when it keeps breaking connection and not supplying power to or intermittently supplying power to the wire + components.
 
Th3InfamousI

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
BigD07 said:
The key switch does not directly have the tac wire running through it. You get 12v from the battery to the ignition switch when you turn the key to position 1 it supplies power to the ignition and wire + components. So the the ignition switch comes into play when it keeps breaking connection and not supplying power to or intermittently supplying power to the wire + components.
Click to expand...
In your case the tach would flash and the bike would cut out as well which makes sense to assume the keyswitch.

If it was just tach alone and the bike ran fine, did not cut out/loose power than the keyswitch doesn't make sense. I think thats the clear distinction. I think Trashman's bike runs fine but he only has a tach issue in which I highly doubt it is related to a sloppy keyswitch as he would loose ALL power to the bike intermittently as you did. BigDogBro is rstating that in regards to Trashman's issue it is a connection issue, bad wire, bad connection, or wrong hole.
 
Trashman

Trashman

Member
Th3InfamousI, BigDogBro1, BigD07, Guys I can thank you enough for the discussion regarding the tach on my 04 Chopper. Just to reinterate. I did the WP374 installation and prior to my EHC dying the tach worked just fine. Not saying that it may have died during the year the bike was down, but I guess I'm leaning more toward a connection, incorrect wire type problem before I dig into the tach PCB. The bike starts right up, runs as smooth as I remember (in the garage for now), everthing on the tach housing works as it should. High beam, L/R turn indicators, oil light, speedometer (bikes on a lift), trip meter and odometer. With that sais I'm a little reluctant to mess with the BCB for now. BigDogBro1, thanks for the electrical diagram. I'm off the next two days so I'll have some dedicated time to look over the diagram and hopefully trace the problem. I spent 20 years in the tech industry as an equipment and field engineer in the semiconductor test industry, I fully understand what ESD can do to the components on the PCB, especially frustrating is when the damage done shows up later and at the worst time because the ESD weakened the internal traces on a device or devices.
Thanks guys, it's folks like you that make this forum what it is!
 
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