EHC Troubleshooting and WirePlus Tips for K-9

[cvegmond]

I read all the posts about troubleshooting the EHC. I'll summarize it for you..

You know the EHC is bad when the bike starts and idles fine but has random power outages when on the road. The EHC lights will not indicate any error when this happens.

I wasn't looking forward to a WirePlus installation, but it wasn't as bad as a I thought. I suggest you solder your connections. Don't use the crimp connectors. You"ll need to stuff all the wires and the plugs down under the seat, which is a bit tight including the two modules.

I mounted the modules lights up, in case I need to do some diagnostic work, but you can't see them for all the wires above them. So mount the modules anyway you like.

I found a good way to install the new two position ignition switch, without having to drill and tap a set screw. I ground out the hole in the motor mount until the new switch poked through far enough to use the threaded collar that comes with the switch. I used these different shaped grinding stone that you install on your drill. I use a round stone on the outside of the hole to make room for the collar. I was able to access enough theads on the switch for the collar to hold the switch in place...as god had intended.

WirePlus is a big improvement for a Big Dog, even if the EHC is working.

As you know, cold starts can still hang the engine, even with the compression relief valves. The two position ignition switch lets you start the engine without the lights on. That makes all the difference, for even a fresh battery to turn over the engine and get it running on the first started button push.

 

[Moespeeds]

Just a quick tip, you can use black RTV to hold that ignition switch in, as long as you get a good bead under the switch and around the threads where it goes through the cover, and let it set up overnight before fooling with it, it's rock solid.

 

[cvegmond]

I found that adding the threaded collar on the outside of the upper engine mount made the installation look stock. I use RTV silicon to hold down the power module so that the diagnostic lights face up.

I flipped the collar rounded side in so that I could maximize the threads it caught and resessed deeper in to the motor mount.

I will admit I trust the threads and collar over the adhesive to hold the switch in.

I'm just happy to have a two position ignition switch.

 

[BigDogBro1]

I read all the posts about troubleshooting the EHC. I'll summarize it for you..

You know the EHC is bad when the bike starts and idles fine but has random power outages when on the road. The EHC lights will not indicate any error when this happens.

I wasn't looking forward to a WirePlus installation, but it wasn't as bad as a I thought. I suggest you solder your connections. Don't use the crimp connectors. You"ll need to stuff all the wires and the plugs down under the seat, which is a bit tight including the two modules.

I mounted the modules lights up, in case I need to do some diagnostic work, but you can't see them for all the wires above them. So mount the modules anyway you like.

I found a good way to install the new two position ignition switch, without having to drill and tap a set screw. I ground out the hole in the motor mount until the new switch poked through far enough to use the threaded collar that comes with the switch. I used these different shaped grinding stone that you install on your drill. I use a round stone on the outside of the hole to make room for the collar. I was able to access enough theads on the switch for the collar to hold the switch in place...as god had intended.

WirePlus is a big improvement for a Big Dog, even if the EHC is working.

As you know, cold starts can still hang the engine, even with the compression relief valves. The two position ignition switch lets you start the engine without the lights on. That makes all the difference, for even a fresh battery to turn over the engine and get it running on the first started button push.

I respect your opinion but can't completely agree with you on your statement: "You know the EHC is bad when the bike starts and idles fine but has random power outages when on the road. The EHC lights will not indicate any error when this happens."

I thought I had an EHC failure but after doing the troubleshooting it was found that loose wire crimps were to blame.

Complete thread....
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/help-wanted/14952-07-bulldog-wont-turn.html

Short answer...
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/237528-post11.html

Your suggestion to solder the wire connections IMO is not a recommended practice in many industries. "I suggest you solder your connections. Don't use the crimp connectors."

If you're saying to elliminate the Wire+ provided Deutch connectors and directly solded on all the wire+ pigtails.....that's fine it you never need to make a disconnection.

Soldering those connections to the crimps instead of only crimping will cause the joint to weaken and increase the chance of breakage when submitted to high vibration. That's one reason why the aircraft, automotive, motorcycle and many other industries use crimped wire connections.

Good suggestion on the HD ignition switch if you want to use the outer switch chrome cover.

The Wire+ is a good product and used when needed it will resolve the EHC electronics issues and some connectorization problems.

 

[bdmridgeback]

I found that adding the threaded collar on the outside of the upper engine mount made the installation look stock. I use RTV silicon to hold down the power module so that the diagnostic lights face up.

I flipped the collar rounded side in so that I could maximize the threads it caught and resessed deeper in to the motor mount.

I will admit I trust the threads and collar over the adhesive to hold the switch in.

I'm just happy to have a two position ignition switch.

The idea behind using a bead of Silicone or set screws to hold the switch in, is because once you grind the coil cover and break the chrome, it will really begin to peal bad shortly after. It will really get bad after it gets wet the first time or sits in storage for a winter. You really need to get it ground the way you want and send it out to have it re-chromed.

When I install them now, the Wire-Plus switch comes with one flat side on it, I file the opposite side flat to fit the coil cover snug. I then put a very small bead around the very bottom of the threads and a quarter size ball on the coil cover and slide it in and let set over night. Works great, looks factory from the outside because the switch is flush with coil cover face.

 

[cvegmond]

BigDogBro1 and Jake,
The BDM wiring and the WirePlus kit have a mis-match of wire gauges which will make a good crimp difficult to trust. I've never had my soldered connections fail on any of the bikes I own, build or repair. I understand the issue about not soldering on planes. Planes go through different conditions than motorcycles. Crimping is less likely to lead to galvanic corrosion. if you solder nicely, then follow it with heat shrink, you'll have a trust-worthy connection that lasts the life of the bike.

My installation of the ignition switch looks great. I used a fine grit eliptical grinding stone on the drill so as not to the chip the chrome. I was a bit lucky in my stone selection as it was the exact shape of the switches collar.

These as just my suggestions. They resulted in a cleaner installation than following the instruction to the letter. My goal was to make the most stock looking reliable installtion possible. To my pleasure everything worked perfectly and looks stock.

 

[cvegmond]

Also, I see by my post I can't type on the iPad.

 

[Chopper Dave]

if you solder nicely, then follow it with heat shrink, you'll have a trust-worthy connection that lasts the life of the bike.

yep yep :2thumbs: all my wires were soldered nicely...by N8KAM!