EHC may have died!

Five Five

Well-Known Member
Keep l@@king Huw .... still not convinced its the EHC.. open up your hand controls and check the wiring to the PCB boards especially the throttle side you might have an intermittent short or possibly a bad PCB board.
 

Nukeranger

Nukeranger
Curtis,

My Battery Charging system is fine. Once started, I get good voltage and the head light stays nice and bright. I can also tell it is good with the battery minder.

Bill,

My bike has been sitting in the nice climate controlled garage for a few weeks. I would think a short would show an LED light on the EHC. If the hand control was shorted, how could the bike go 14 miles to work and run fine with a good head light and only flashing blinkers. All the EHC LED's looked normal. I have never seen the bike do this. This is a first.

Thanks for the input. I am so close to saying the EHC needs to be swapped to WP. I just hope that when I go out to the parking lot, she starts and I can ride home.

Huw
 

Five Five

Well-Known Member
Alright Huw. Here is another option I have a brand new EHC still in the ESD package. I can loan it to you to determine if its the EHC or if its your wiring. Email me your address at
Bill@myperea.com and I will get it in the mail to you
 

Nukeranger

Nukeranger
:2thumbs:Bill, you are the man and I may take you up on the offer. First, I have to eliminate anything which may be causing a high resistance ground which affects the EHC startup sequence. So, I am going to do the following:

1. Remove, test the Battery ground cable, and install a new larger cable if suspect
2. Remove all wires and reterminate each battery connection.
3. Remove all battery tender connections to the battery and go to clips for my tender cables
4. Clean the bolts for both battery connections. I have already installed longer bolts for a larger surface area (i.e more surface area connection).
5. I have already replaced the JST plug under the coil cover for the ignition switch connection with a Deutch plug.
6. I have tested the ignition key switch but have a new spare I could swap with
7. Unplug the EHC and clean the pins, pack dielectric grease again and reseat.
8. Cycle the ignition switch each day several times to prove reliability.

After all this, I could try your new EHC if the issue still exists. I will be working hard to duplicate the issue during this process to validate my issue. At this point, I may put my WP in since it may not be so sensitive to voltage issues.

I do know that after working 13 hours, I expected to go to my Dog and expect the EHC not to turn on the system but I was wrong. The dog went through the startup process, started up, and took me home without an issue.:2thumbs:

Huw

PS let me know if I missed something. I know I didn't mention the right side handlebar circuit board but only want to check this out last if all else fails
 

Five Five

Well-Known Member
:2thumbs:Bill, you are the man and I may take you up on the offer. First, I have to eliminate anything which may be causing a high resistance ground which affects the EHC startup sequence. So, I am going to do the following:

1. Remove, test the Battery ground cable, and install a new larger cable if suspect
2. Remove all wires and reterminate each battery connection.
3. Remove all battery tender connections to the battery and go to clips for my tender cables
4. Clean the bolts for both battery connections. I have already installed longer bolts for a larger surface area (i.e more surface area connection).
5. I have already replaced the JST plug under the coil cover for the ignition switch connection with a Deutch plug.
6. I have tested the ignition key switch but have a new spare I could swap with
7. Unplug the EHC and clean the pins, pack dielectric grease again and reseat.
8. Cycle the ignition switch each day several times to prove reliability.

After all this, I could try your new EHC if the issue still exists. I will be working hard to duplicate the issue during this process to validate my issue. At this point, I may put my WP in since it may not be so sensitive to voltage issues.

I do know that after working 13 hours, I expected to go to my Dog and expect the EHC not to turn on the system but I was wrong. The dog went through the startup process, started up, and took me home without an issue.:2thumbs:

Huw

PS let me know if I missed something. I know I didn't mention the right side handlebar circuit board but only want to check this out last if all else fails
Your off to a good start .... :up:
 

Little-Boo

Well-Known Member
Troop Supporter
Alright Huw. Here is another option I have a brand new EHC still in the ESD package. I can loan it to you to determine if its the EHC or if its your wiring. Email me your address at
Bill@myperea.com and I will get it in the mail to you
Now that is the way to go Bill and we can nail down if its the EHC or some other issue YOU THE MAN :2thumbs:

Carlos :whoop:
 

stlmikie

I wish I had more money.
I'm still thinking about something going on under the tank. Didn't you get it to act up when you moved the tank? I know you eliminated on of the connectors but did you look any deeper than that particular connection?
 

Nukeranger

Nukeranger
I doubt it is anything under my tank. It is very tight. I put extra electrical tape around the rear gromet and my tank doesn't move. All I checked under the tank were the wires that turn the EHC on by grounding the EHC. So far, I have tested the key switch, replaced the connector under the coil cover with a Deutch Plug and soldered the wires after removing the JST plug under the tank.

Next, I am checking all the connections under the seat as described above.

Huw
 

hayseed

Member
it maybe as simple as the key switch, they seem to be a weak spot on these bikes,, i am considering replacing mine with a toggle switch but have not found one that will look right/fit on the coil cover.... anyone have any ideas ? i have seen the tractor trailer supply replacement option also but i dont really care about having a key
 

BadBrad

2005 Pitbull
I swapped out both EHC's on both bikes while they were in good working condition. They are just too damn finicky. I'm pretty sure they're all female EHC's. You just can't ever tell what they're going to do. Never had an electrical issue with either bike since the swap over. I had replaced Rocky's once before when her rear tires rubbed the signal wires under her fender causing the EHC to fry. She had that happen once since the WP was installed. No issues other than it grounded the bike out and it wouldn't run. After repairing the wires under the fender, the WP worked just like it should. If you're going on a long trip and you have a WP on the shelf, I would install it and be done with it.
 

Nukeranger

Nukeranger
Brad,

I agree with you. I just don't want to give up on the EHC yet. I keep eliminating a possible issue when it gives me trouble. There is absolutely no reason the EHC should act up right now. So, I am going to give it some run time with the latested work.

Huw
 

Oscar Maldonado

Guru
Calendar Participant
Huw,
It doesn't hurt to check the connections in your controls. I make it a habit to check them monthly. The vibration causes mine to back out just enough to cause an intermitting connection from time to time. They all have the locking clasps on the connection but I found mine broke thus creating head aches from time to time.

Just an FYI.
 

Five Five

Well-Known Member
Huw,
It doesn't hurt to check the connections in your controls. I make it a habit to check them monthly. The vibration causes mine to back out just enough to cause an intermitting connection from time to time. They all have the locking clasps on the connection but I found mine broke thus creating head aches from time to time.

Just an FYI.
I 2nd that... too often the hand controls are overlooked...i check mine periodicly :up:
 
Huw,
It doesn't hurt to check the connections in your controls. I make it a habit to check them monthly. The vibration causes mine to back out just enough to cause an intermitting connection from time to time. They all have the locking clasps on the connection but I found mine broke thus creating head aches from time to time.

Just an FYI.
Dielectric grease in connector.
Wipe plastic outside with acetone.
Apply a small strip of foil sticky back tape.
No more intermittent connection.....:D
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
I have been having the same problems and after trail and error found out my ehc does not like to be cold soaked below 34 degrees. So what I do now is heat soak the bike before I ride in the cold, and that seems to work.
If the EHC is getting a bad whacknackerslap me upside the head :spank: and let me ask you this? Can you turn the lights on in the house below 34°F and electricity still gets it done? Wouldn't it be the same for DC? It's still half of one phase you captured. So logic says you can't turn the light on and get half current? Aren't you still seeing 110v at the filament and 12v at the EHC?

Isn't gas and a cold head happy when at running temperature? My question is, did the old connector [in question] have separate lines for each other, or were both the orange and black soldered together at both ends? And this connector used one male/female end inside the [old] connector? What is orange and who is black? Understand both theories about electricity and wire communications in a computer type bike?

Because orange and/or black are part giving the EHC its reputation. Get it?
 

BadBrad

2005 Pitbull
The EHC is fed by 12vdc, but it delegates different output voltages, depending on what it's feeding. If I'm not mistaken, the WP is a total 12vdc input/output wiring harness. BDM put way too much thought....and confusion into the EHC.
 

Nukeranger

Nukeranger
I have to lube my throttle cables so I'll take your advice and check the connections. If what you say is true, I should be able to disconnect the connector and duplicate the problem I had.

But, I haven't had the problem again since reworking the positive Battery lugs!

Thanks Brad, Oscar, Curtis, and Bill. I appreciate the info. I am thinking of keeping my EHC until it gets to be a problem or I get scared of a long trip. Good to know the WP is all 12VDC everywhere. A high resistance connection with lower voltage would explain the EHC issues.

I still can't figure out what Sven writes for the most part?

Huw
 

BadBrad

2005 Pitbull
I have to lube my throttle cables so I'll take your advice and check the connections. If what you say is true, I should be able to disconnect the connector and duplicate the problem I had.

But, I haven't had the problem again since reworking the positive Battery lugs!

Thanks Brad, Oscar, Curtis, and Bill. I appreciate the info. I am thinking of keeping my EHC until it gets to be a problem or I get scared of a long trip. Good to know the WP is all 12VDC everywhere. A high resistance connection with lower voltage would explain the EHC issues.

I still can't figure out what Sven writes for the most part?

Huw
When you do figure out what Sven writes is when I'll begin to worry about you. :loony:
 
Top