EFM Autoclutch
- Thread starter Milco
- Start date
You don't have it installed right. The part you left out goes on the inside to keep you throw out bearing in place. You get no extra parts other than clutch steels of different thickness and maybe springs that go on the pressure plate bolts nothing else all parts are used. Check you instructions.
To adjust the clutch your cable has to be loose and the lever at the handle bar is loose as well. The rod should be out about one full turn to start. keep adjusting the rod until the bike moves on throttle and does not creep at idle. One you get that done you can adjust the lever by putting in in neutral rev it up to about 3000 RPM, the lever will no longer move or tighten anymore so now you can take up the slack at the cable adjuster :2thumbs:
Carlos
TapioK
Well-Known Member
Carlos,
you can see from my pictures how the part was inside, it’s way loose to the hole as you can see in pic 1. and 2. also it is just grinding against the “efm palte”. After an hour I can see it wearing down, hell it is a piece of aluminium grinding against steel… also those “ears” are already showing wear. Pic 1 is how it came back from EFM, we did not open the basket before today.
Also doesn’t the rod hold the bearing in place? The guy in EFM with whom my friend talked said he doesn’t know any piece like that being inside the basket… Weird. I’ll send the pictures to them. Anyway the handlebar lever feels much nicer and softer after removing this part, there was like a notch on the feel, and clutch was sometimes slipping ALOT, sometimes it didn’t “open” at all...
Tapio
you can see from my pictures how the part was inside, it’s way loose to the hole as you can see in pic 1. and 2. also it is just grinding against the “efm palte”. After an hour I can see it wearing down, hell it is a piece of aluminium grinding against steel… also those “ears” are already showing wear. Pic 1 is how it came back from EFM, we did not open the basket before today.
Also doesn’t the rod hold the bearing in place? The guy in EFM with whom my friend talked said he doesn’t know any piece like that being inside the basket… Weird. I’ll send the pictures to them. Anyway the handlebar lever feels much nicer and softer after removing this part, there was like a notch on the feel, and clutch was sometimes slipping ALOT, sometimes it didn’t “open” at all...
Tapio
TapioK
Well-Known Member
OK, got this answer from Garry. Carlos, you made me a bit worried for a while...
Hope this eventually helps somebody else too. Though Garry's way of explaining things somehow brings Sven to my mind.... :
"Tapio:
No, you don't need that bearing retainer. Make sure if its a cable clutch you pull the lever to the handlebar, before it gets hard. You must have the full travel of the cam for the clutch lever to work.
You can test this by just backing off the push rod screw and see if the clutch works any different, if it does, this is where the problem is, if not, then you need to take out a thin steel and replace it with a thicker one to reduce the clearance. From the pic it don't look like you have the clearance right. The fiber plate should be above the drive hub over half it thickness.
Let me know, I am here to help, we will get this figured out, when it is set up proper, it should start moving just off idle, but it is a rpm engaged pressure plate, so you might have to shift at higher points when twisting the throttle hard. If it gets hot, its slipping, check your steels, make sure they are not burnt or discolored, if they are, ruff them up with sandpaper."
Hope this eventually helps somebody else too. Though Garry's way of explaining things somehow brings Sven to my mind.... :
"Tapio:
No, you don't need that bearing retainer. Make sure if its a cable clutch you pull the lever to the handlebar, before it gets hard. You must have the full travel of the cam for the clutch lever to work.
You can test this by just backing off the push rod screw and see if the clutch works any different, if it does, this is where the problem is, if not, then you need to take out a thin steel and replace it with a thicker one to reduce the clearance. From the pic it don't look like you have the clearance right. The fiber plate should be above the drive hub over half it thickness.
Let me know, I am here to help, we will get this figured out, when it is set up proper, it should start moving just off idle, but it is a rpm engaged pressure plate, so you might have to shift at higher points when twisting the throttle hard. If it gets hot, its slipping, check your steels, make sure they are not burnt or discolored, if they are, ruff them up with sandpaper."
Sorry, but even Gary seem to confuse me with his instructions. When I got the clutch from him I called him once and decided to figure it out on my own. :lol: I don't like to be treated like its my fault I have questions about the installation. I have a simular clutch (ReKluse) on my wife's Trike and their instructions worked better. I may have gotten different part than what you got. I never had a choice between cable clutch or other type. I did take the pressure plate apart to get the throw out bearing installed. It's been a while, I know mine works good. I will be taking it apart soon to replace my transmission and I'll take a look at mine again. Nothing wrong with my Tranny just upgrade on he bearings and shaft. Hope you can get her going
Carlos
TapioK
Well-Known Member
Yeah Carlos, and it doesn’t help, when english is not my first language…
An other strange this is, the whole clutch was sent to them, and they put the basket and plates together… I just wonder why they didn’t use the correct thickness steel plates to begin with, if it’s so obvious you can see it in the picture… Well, I’ll take it open again and try thicker plates!
An other strange this is, the whole clutch was sent to them, and they put the basket and plates together… I just wonder why they didn’t use the correct thickness steel plates to begin with, if it’s so obvious you can see it in the picture… Well, I’ll take it open again and try thicker plates!
TapioK
Well-Known Member
Now I believe I have the auto-clutch adjusted correctly.
But before going there a few words about it. I hope this answers Milco’s question how it works and feels.
In a way the name is misleading,
clutch basically works from about around 1000 rpm to 1500 rpm. Meaning, in idle it does disengage the clutch, and hand lever is totally limb, add throttle and bike takes off smoothly and lever “activates” with rpm. After maybe 2500 rpm the lever looks, feels and works like a normal clutch -except it is light, one finger operation! No broken cables any more.
When you shift without using lever on higher rpm, I would still call it power-shifting, though it kind of feels smoother…dunno.
Clever thing is when you pull the lever, let rpm settle to idle -lever goes limb and you have no engine brake, clutch is and stays disengaged. You can either stop, change gear, or add some throttle and you are back in business. Rather handy in traffic or say in parades etc.
When standing still mine doesn’t try to creep at all, and finding neutral is easier than ever, gears just “click" on.
As you can see, I use lever while shifting, old habit maybe, but it feels so light and nice now…. On standstill I do not use lever, there is no reason to.
The clutch doesn’t seem to slip at all over 1500 rpm, and on takeoffs it pretty much feels like it would when you takeoff with manual clutch.
Adjusting the beast is a bit more tricky than original clutch, I’ll write another post about that.
:2thumbs:
Tapio
But before going there a few words about it. I hope this answers Milco’s question how it works and feels.
In a way the name is misleading,
clutch basically works from about around 1000 rpm to 1500 rpm. Meaning, in idle it does disengage the clutch, and hand lever is totally limb, add throttle and bike takes off smoothly and lever “activates” with rpm. After maybe 2500 rpm the lever looks, feels and works like a normal clutch -except it is light, one finger operation! No broken cables any more.
When you shift without using lever on higher rpm, I would still call it power-shifting, though it kind of feels smoother…dunno.
Clever thing is when you pull the lever, let rpm settle to idle -lever goes limb and you have no engine brake, clutch is and stays disengaged. You can either stop, change gear, or add some throttle and you are back in business. Rather handy in traffic or say in parades etc.
When standing still mine doesn’t try to creep at all, and finding neutral is easier than ever, gears just “click" on.
As you can see, I use lever while shifting, old habit maybe, but it feels so light and nice now…. On standstill I do not use lever, there is no reason to.
The clutch doesn’t seem to slip at all over 1500 rpm, and on takeoffs it pretty much feels like it would when you takeoff with manual clutch.
Adjusting the beast is a bit more tricky than original clutch, I’ll write another post about that.
:2thumbs:
Tapio
05 old dog
Well-Known Member
tapiok...how did you adjust yours? mine slips or chatters just a little on take off from a standing start...how many turns out are you on the clutch rod?
TapioK
Well-Known Member
Well, I didn’t check how many turns it was. I didn’t want to think about it, since with the old knowledge of adjusting the clutch, counting turns would just have confused me.
This method was easy for me, since I have a baker belt primary, and I just opened some bolts to get a proper visual on clutch...
What I did was:
1 loosen the cable, turn rod open a few turns.
2 from clutch side push the EFM in to the plates as far as it goes (around 0,050-0,070 if it goes further replace one steel-plate with thicker…)
3 Now push the bearing in the middle of this plate as deep as it goes -to meet the rod. It’s not pressed in, so it should move easily.
Now you have a visual how much tolerance you have between the rod and the plate assembly. adjust this tolerance by turning rod IN until there still is a bit of a tolerance (pretty much as much as ¼ turn in original clutch I suppose.)
I have it like this
How did I know how much tolerance I need? That just felt right on my eye. It is a bit less than 1 millimetre I think (I am european after all, and inches confuse me…)
Then I just put covers back, ran the engine to about 3000 rpm and adjusted the cable to have a touch of play on lever (remember the old coin trick). On idle the lever is totally slack.
That was pretty much it.
This method was easy for me, since I have a baker belt primary, and I just opened some bolts to get a proper visual on clutch...
What I did was:
1 loosen the cable, turn rod open a few turns.
2 from clutch side push the EFM in to the plates as far as it goes (around 0,050-0,070 if it goes further replace one steel-plate with thicker…)
3 Now push the bearing in the middle of this plate as deep as it goes -to meet the rod. It’s not pressed in, so it should move easily.
Now you have a visual how much tolerance you have between the rod and the plate assembly. adjust this tolerance by turning rod IN until there still is a bit of a tolerance (pretty much as much as ¼ turn in original clutch I suppose.)
I have it like this
How did I know how much tolerance I need? That just felt right on my eye. It is a bit less than 1 millimetre I think (I am european after all, and inches confuse me…)
Then I just put covers back, ran the engine to about 3000 rpm and adjusted the cable to have a touch of play on lever (remember the old coin trick). On idle the lever is totally slack.
That was pretty much it.
TapioK
Well-Known Member
Push in
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-...eA/aExcqy3JHjU/s912/2012-12-18%2012.15.08.jpg
Adjust the tolerance
This is how my stack of plates look in the basket, they are about half a plate in. EFM says about half a plate out, but then I did not have enough room for clutch to disengage….
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-...dw/FnolqVmw6P0/s912/2012-12-17%2017.08.02.jpg
I see you found where that extra piece went. I holds the throw out bearing like I had mentioned. Don't even know how yours worked without it.
I think the best way to adjust the rod is to take it out a 1 and 1/2 turns out. If the bike won't move at 1200 to 1500 RPMs turn it in 1/4 turn at a time time you get the bike to move without creeping at idle.
Carlos
I think the best way to adjust the rod is to take it out a 1 and 1/2 turns out. If the bike won't move at 1200 to 1500 RPMs turn it in 1/4 turn at a time time you get the bike to move without creeping at idle.
Carlos
05 old dog
Well-Known Member
carlos thats the way i adjusted mine...app 1 1/2 turn out. tightened down ,then adjusted the cable adjuster to adjust clutch lever...lengthened the adjuster to where the lever felt resistance about 1/4 inch before lever touches grip....yes / no ?