EFM autoclutch adjustment

Energy One

TapioK

Well-Known Member
Was I dreaming or did somebody just ask help for efm autoclutch adjustment? I can't find the post. Little Boo, Bearman or even I could most likely point you to right direction.
Please repost the question, if you still need help...
Tapio
 

Little-Boo

Well-Known Member
Troop Supporter
I would not look for anyone to adjust my EFM clutch unless you are still running the wet primary. The only adjustment you can make is replacing the clutch steels for thicker ones maybe one or two and of course the normal clutch adjustment about 1/2 turn more or less. I have an equivalent one (Rekluse Clutch) on my wife's Trike with a wet Primary and it works good. It sucks on the Open dry Primary.

If you are running an open belt primary, like I am forget it. You have to take the sucker off every 3 to 4 hundred miles and clean it as the clutch dust gets hung up on the balls :lol:, well the ball bearing on the pressure plate which is nothing more than a centrifugal unit which the ball bearings that put pressure on the clutch plates with rpms. The more RPMs the tighter the clutch which eliminates clutch slippage at higher RPMS. I like that but I don't like having to take it off as often as I've had too. If you have to adjust and clean the EFM Clutch every 400 miles (Dry Primary) than it is not good worth it. I know Gary at EFM swears by his product but I don't, at least not on an open primary. I am in the process of removing mine. I had not done it because I broke a Jack support (aluminum bolt carrier) on the outer bearing support of the open primary. This happened from taking it apart two to three or more times a year. I just got two new ones from Curtis and I am ready to put the stock clutch back on. If anyone needs an EFM clutch I have one for cheap (1/2 the cost of a new one). My neighbor has one on his Harley (wet Primary) and it works well, he has not ever taken his apart because of clutch dust failure on the ball bearings at the pressure plate.
Carlos :bang:
 
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TapioK

Well-Known Member
Like Boo said, if everything in basket is fine, adjust like normal clutch. I tend to remember Boo had his rod 1.4 (?) turns out, I have closer to 2. Don't tighten the cable too much, on idle the lever should be pretty limb to the handlebar. Around 3000 rpm it should feel like "normal" lever.
But the question was really not about adjustment, but about where to find a good mechanic, good luck with that.

Tapio
 

bearman

Active Member
Yeah, a good mechanic would give you your money back if you were not happy with the work, or at least make it right. But then again if they didn't do it right the first time, why would you let them "make it right"?

Once my LFM auto clutch (wet primary) was adjusted correctly with the plates and steels, I have had no problems, works great.

I thought I had problems with it once but it turns out that my clutch cable was too short and when I turned the bars all the way to the right, the clutch slipped.
 
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