Dyno...

[ChopperJeff]

This coming Saturday I'm having my bike dyno'd and was wondering if there is anything I should do to take full advantage of it.

My current setup is Arlen Ness pipes and the K&N air filter in the stock housing. Mainly wondering if I should throw any money into it as far as an air cleaner, xxx carb or whatever. Would hate to have it dyno'd then be kicking myself as I think of something I should have done beforehand. Currently though I really can't afford to put too much more than about $300 into an item for the bike.

I'm guessing that any changes in the air and/or exhaust areas would merit another dyno test, and at $200 a pop it's not something I'd want to do too often.

Thanks!

 

[Raywood]

I would ensure my rear tire is fully inflated, exhaust pipes studs are tight and your clutch is adjust properly. The clutch is most important. Clean your air filter and add fresh lube.
I only do my dyno's to ensure the air/fuel mixture is set right.
I also tell them to not run it above 5500 rpm especially if they are going to do multiple runs.
We have the same bike so you should be right around 92-94/110

Have fun and don't forget your earplugs!!!!

We have a mobile dyno guy around here that does $25 single runs. I had Speed Performance do mine in Laughlin and Las Vegas and they ran about $125.

This coming Saturday I'm having my bike dyno'd and was wondering if there is anything I should do to take full advantage of it.

My current setup is Arlen Ness pipes and the K&N air filter in the stock housing. Mainly wondering if I should throw any money into it as far as an air cleaner, xxx carb or whatever. Would hate to have it dyno'd then be kicking myself as I think of something I should have done beforehand. Currently though I really can't afford to put too much more than about $300 into an item for the bike.

I'm guessing that any changes in the air and/or exhaust areas would merit another dyno test, and at $200 a pop it's not something I'd want to do too often.

Thanks!

 

[rhinoevans]

This coming Saturday I'm having my bike dyno'd and was wondering if there is anything I should do to take full advantage of it.

My current setup is Arlen Ness pipes and the K&N air filter in the stock housing. Mainly wondering if I should throw any money into it as far as an air cleaner, xxx carb or whatever. Would hate to have it dyno'd then be kicking myself as I think of something I should have done beforehand. Currently though I really can't afford to put too much more than about $300 into an item for the bike.

I'm guessing that any changes in the air and/or exhaust areas would merit another dyno test, and at $200 a pop it's not something I'd want to do too often.

Thanks!

I did just the opposite. However, my dyno results were so poor that I changed everything. New Air intake, new exhaust and a XXX carb job. Now I need to do it again. My main culprite was the baffels in the V&H pipes. I went from 70 HP with baffels to 99 without. I would have thought I would have lot HP with no baffel at all, but my pipes seem to be really restrictive for the 107 motor. The baffels was the reason for the very low main jet on my first dyno run. I recentle added V&H 2-1, and have yet to decide what I do about that baffel. I think I will make a dyno run with it stock, and adjust from there. Good luck. But like RAY said, I really do a DYNO to set the correct Air/Fule ratio, HP is what it is.

Oh by the way, in Vegas where I go for Carb bikes it is $125. $60 for just 1 run or $125 for a dyno tune.

 

[barhopper]

Why Dyno a stock bike? I would rather put money into a XXX carb, made a very nice difference on my bike. New free flowing air filter is good also if doing the carb. Dyno it after you get mods done. Save the cash. Ypur pipes and your air cleaner probably didn't do a whole lot for more power, though it sounds better.

 

[Redflames02]

Don't spend any money till after the dyno. I had mine done when my bike was almost new so he did not run the bike too high rpms.
The bike made over 100 hp at the rear wheel running stock. The guy that did the dyno was impressed for it being a stock bike. He just made small adjustments on the carb & put a K&N air filter on it. Im happy with the performance. :flag:

John

 

[BigDognSoCal]

Dyno...Overrated...
Do your mods first, and when you buy pipes get them with sensor bungs...then after you get it adjusted and tuned by the seatodapants method...if you still need confirmation of A/F or just have money to burn...Dyno!...my .02:up:

 

[ChopperJeff]

Thanks guys for the input!

I called the shop that will be doing the dyno and asked if changing my air filter will help with the dyno results. He said to just open it up more by either removing the front plate on the cover, or getting a vented one. I asked if the Velocity Stacks or Hyperchargers do any good to which he said "no". That surprised me! I figured those things are designed to bring in more air, and would have to help at least to some degree.

He didn't know about the XXX carbs. That also surprised me.

I figure I'll go ahead with the dyno as I'm getting $50 off their usual price as I'm getting some other work done by them, namely to have the clutch looked at and perhaps the push rods need adjusting. I say that as after replacing the rocker box gaskets it's been making a ticking sound as I ride. I wonder about the clutch too as when I get on it really hard the bike sort of clunks and hesitates as if something is slipping or is loose.

I'll let them figure it out. Hopefully it won't be anything too major.

 

[Raywood]

Understand the reasons for not dyno'ing till all your mods are complete some like to have a baseline for comparison!

 

[BigDognSoCal]

Baseline is fine...You have one anyways even without a dyno(it was the first time and last time you took off on your bike)...How many Dyno's will it take before you have the ceiling? its just a number...and you can usally get your base line from a trip around the mountain...or from stop light to stop light what ever your style is...but the dyno has no idea how and where you will ride...

Go out stock and ride...add some pipes and air filter then go back out and ride...not enough, put in the cam and XXX...and ride...not enough then...you get the picture...the road is endless...but the dyno wont tell you what is good for your style...If something isn't right you will know it...

Seat of the pants is the best...Unless you want to enter a Dyno drag...:up:

 

[Doug G]

Thanks guys for the input!

I called the shop that will be doing the dyno and asked if changing my air filter will help with the dyno results. He said to just open it up more by either removing the front plate on the cover, or getting a vented one. I asked if the Velocity Stacks or Hyperchargers do any good to which he said "no". That surprised me! I figured those things are designed to bring in more air, and would have to help at least to some degree.

He didn't know about the XXX carbs. That also surprised me.

I figure I'll go ahead with the dyno as I'm getting $50 off their usual price as I'm getting some other work done by them, namely to have the clutch looked at and perhaps the push rods need adjusting. I say that as after replacing the rocker box gaskets it's been making a ticking sound as I ride. I wonder about the clutch too as when I get on it really hard the bike sort of clunks and hesitates as if something is slipping or is loose.

I'll let them figure it out. Hopefully it won't be anything too major.

I wouldn't be too surprised that your shop didn't know about the triple X. There are many other very good carbs out there. We hear about them alot here on the forum because many of us on the forum are running them. They are just a hopped up version of our stock carbs. I'm not knocking them, I'm running a chrome XXX on my K-9, looks pretty, but there are others your shop may recommend. As for your air filter, just bringing in more air doesn't mean HP gains, there is more to it than that. I'm not an expert by any means, but do some research here on the forum, some of the guys here are pretty damn sharp. Good luck, and like alot of us here have fun learning!

 

[Raywood]

Jeff, how did the dyno go for you? Good numbers? Was the fuel/air mixture right in the ball park?

 

[ChopperJeff]

Dyno results

The dyno results were a bit low, with my max HP being 80 and max torque at 101. The tech said that this was due to two things, namely the Super 'E' carb and the Arlen Ness pipes. He said that going to a Super 'G' card alone would get me an extra 15 HP!

He also said the bike was running a tad lean, so that richened it up a bit.

Looks like I'll be looking pricing carbs. Sure would like to get new pipes as my current ones are not only hindering performance, but they've discolored a lot and look like shit. Pipes are so damn expensive though!

He said they had an '06 K-9 that dyno'd at just over 100 HP at it had the Super 'G' carb and Vance and Hines Big Radius pipes.

The dyno chart is attached.

 

[KnotSo]

Used pipes can be had for a fair price.
I bet there are several pipes hanging in forum members garages they would part with...

 

[Raywood]

Jeff, remember those numbers are at 5252 RPM. Your E carb runs better for street use than the G. If anything I would have it modified by Triple X. They bored mine out to 42.5 mm so it now bigger than the E but smaller than the G and I still have good throttle response and gas mileage.

And it's a lot less expensive.

Performance S&S Carburetors by Triple X Carbs - American Made

I would look at other things also. Those numbers are much lower than many others of us have gotten. Have you removed the restrictor plates?

This was my dyno back in 05 when I had this POS aircleaner on, I didn't breath for shit. I shitcanned it and did a lot better on the next dyno.

 

[rhinoevans]

I would look at the the pipes only. I went through all of that last month with a very poor DYNO result. Did the xXx carb. Good thing to do but that was not my problem. Pull my cam to put in a 600 S&S to find out that I already had a 600!!! Compression test, Good. Leak down test, good. Only thing left was to look at the heads (valves, valves guide, springs, ect). I ASSUMED my pipes were good. VAnce and hines 2 -2 Big shots. Took out the baffels, just to see and went from 70 HP / 80 TQ to 99.25 HP and 105 TQ.

What did I take away from this?

1. Do the simple stuff first. (This is not from me. Was suggested from someone on this forum early on , and of course I didn't listen)
2. Getting the air into our motors is usually not a problem, it is getting it out, with advanced cams, and in my case a very restrictive exhaust pipe thatwas holding the motor back.


I have since then ordered the V&H BR 2-1. The other pipes with no baffel was way to loud. probaly could have went with old pipes and the smaller Big City Thunder mini baffel or just cut about 8 inches of of the foot long V&H baffel. The new 2-1 probably also have a some what of a restriction problem and will need to modiify the baffel. That baffel is so hugh there is no way , I think, you could just take it out, and no one makes a better baffel. There is a large solid plate in the baffel, which will not allow air to flow straight out. It forcs the air around a cylinder with lots of holes to let the air out. I need to put a hole in that plate just for the dyno rod. Trick is to determine what size hole to not restrict and keep optimum back pressure. Now having problems retuning the carb. I have read the HOw to and the S&S Super G instructin sheet to a point I can quote it, however, still unable to resolve a "bog down" when you snap the throttle. Scheduled a DYNO next week, just to find tune the bike. My time is more valuable than the $125 for the DYNO. I have played with this thing for two day with no success. I will leave this one to the pro's. Picture of baffel on br 2-1. Picture from CVO owners group.

 

[BigDognSoCal]

Don't get fixated on max numbers...your torque looks good as it is...since thats what you feel anyways...if you need more, do the cheap shit first...Used pipes, take out restrictor plate, K&N air filter, and re-jet...cost less that $55 plus the cost of the pipes...Your bike will rock and you'll have $$ left over for beer to drink during the install...:up:

 

[ChopperJeff]

Thanks guys for the input!

I'll search thru this site for the restrictor plate removal info... I'm guessing there's a "how-to" about that somewhere.

As I need new pipes anyways due to them looking like crap, I'll keep my eye out for some used ones. It appears the latest 2-1 Vance & Hines are not made for the '05 Chopper, at least that what I get from their web site. I was told by the tech that a 2-1 would give the best performance, but as he also said, unless you're racing or getting extreme about the whole thing, then it may not be the way to go. Some people just prefer the looks of the 2-2 type of pipes, and they are fine for most people when it comes to performance.

By the way Raywood, what air cleaner did you end up gong with? The shop I was at just did the quick and dirty technique of removing the front plate on my air cleaner which I said was fine to do if that would help.

I'll also look into that XXX carb site.

By the way, in case anyone is curious, the shop I went to is Santa Rosa Vee-Twin (in California) Seemed like really good and informative people that I would be more than happy to go back to. He told me in detail how I could do some of the work myself in order to save money. It always impresses me when a shop that makes their living by working on bikes is willing to basically tell you how to do it yourself and save money by avoiding having to bring in in to them. They have definitely got a new customer for the future.

 

[Chopper Dave]

my bike was dynoed before they delievered it to me..in Feb of 07.....this was stock with V&H BR pipes...full baffles....not bad...98.78 hp and 113.93 tq
now I have cut baffles... S&S Desperado cleaner with K&N filter, .600 cam
want to get the Doherty Power Pacc backing plate and carb xXx then get it re-dynoed...

 

[Raywood]

Jeff, you have got to be the last person in the world to remover the restrictor plates if they are still in there!!
Pull them out after you have Nelson get you the spacers to replace them. They are quite thick so if you don't use the spacers you may have sealing problems. If you have them still in your motor then that could be the reason for you're lower numbers. But as BigDognSoCal stated, it's only numbers and you already have 40,000 miles on it so obviously you weren't missing anything.

Here are what they look like and where they are installed. You'll like the Triple X mod on your carb as it makes it more responsive. Your pipes might just need to have the baffles opened up or cut down or just do the "washer" thing in them.

Here are the spacers. The left one is on top of the "restrictor" plate!

Here they installed on the cylinder head. Get a new set of seals when you order the spacer plates.

I now just run an open cone filter I picked up from "Green".

I'll search thru this site for the restrictor plate removal info... I'm guessing there's a "how-to" about that somewhere.

By the way Raywood, what air cleaner did you end up gong with? The shop I was at just did the quick and dirty technique of removing the front plate on my air cleaner which I said was fine to do if that would help.

I'll also look into that XXX carb site.

 

[BigDognSoCal]

"you already have 40,000 miles on it so obviously you weren't missing anything."
Are you kidding me? When this thread started I thought you were new to the bike and were looking for some direction...Shit at 40k you know what you have and what you want. Dyno that mofo and start your mods...I was just trying get you the most bang for your buck thinking you were a newbe...Sorry if I insulted you with my cheap ass...