Driving lights/electrical question

Coolbreezin

Active Member
Im wanting to install a set of driving lights on the V. Just a simple set from the local auto parts place. My question is...whats the best way to wire this so they are on all the time with the headlight?
Any input is appreciated.
Thank you.
 

Gas Man

Cool isn't cheap
Calendar Participant
Put a seperate switch in and turn it on yourself. Wired directly to the battery. Don't start addin in those extra amps to the EHC wiring.
 

DRBarnhart

Insert title here...
Put a seperate switch in and turn it on yourself. Wired directly to the battery. Don't start addin in those extra amps to the EHC wiring.
I agree with that 110%!!! :cheers:

It'll be better for the EHC if you do it that way and won't rob any amperage from the battery while you're starting the bike... :D

Dennis
 

Coolbreezin

Active Member
Both are excellent points. I wish I could ignore them, but I know you're both right. I just didnt want a switch exposed anywhere, and under the seat just isnt an option. I was thinking up under the battery, just above the starter. Out of sight, but still within reach. I'll investigate it...once I fix the damn jackshaft issue.
Thank you gentlemen.
 

stryfox

Active Member
If you wire them to the battery with a relay you can use a very small low amp switch.
This should be easier to hide.
 

Coolbreezin

Active Member
Thanks Stryfox. I'll get the lights and talk to the salesman to get any other lil items I may need. Thanks all for the responses.
Peace.
 
Run them thru a relay.

Relay Pins:
Pin 30: Battery + (Fused as close to the battery as possible, post the wattage on the lights and I can recommend fuse size.)
Pin 87: Driving lights Power
Pin 85: Hi Beam power
Pin 86: Ground

Run Driving lights ground to battery or a good chassis ground.

Get a relay with a resistor in parallel with the relay coil. This will help with transient voltage suppression and will have a longer life than a diode suppression relay. Wiring like this will turn them on when you hi beam is activated you can always wire to lo beam power if you would rather they be on with low beam. This will also shut them off during start. If the relay faults your headlight will automatically switch to the other beam. Relay will only add another 100mA or so, the EHC will not even know it is there. Do a quality wire splice and routing job and you should be fine.

I know many are going to tell you to stay away from the EHC, I am not going to argue for or against, I am just trying to give you another option. Unless you have other problems or do not get it spiced or wired well you will have no issues.
 

Raywood

The Pirate
Staff member
Calendar Participant
Troop Supporter
Run them thru a relay.

Relay Pins:
Pin 30: Battery + (Fused as close to the battery as possible, post the wattage on the lights and I can recommend fuse size.)
Pin 87: Driving lights Power
Pin 85: Hi Beam power
Pin 86: Ground

Run Driving lights ground to battery or a good chassis ground.

Get a relay with a resistor in parallel with the relay coil. This will help with transient voltage suppression and will have a longer life than a diode suppression relay. Wiring like this will turn them on when you hi beam is activated you can always wire to lo beam power if you would rather they be on with low beam. This will also shut them off during start. If the relay faults your headlight will automatically switch to the other beam. Relay will only add another 100mA or so, the EHC will not even know it is there. Do a quality wire splice and routing job and you should be fine.

I know many are going to tell you to stay away from the EHC, I am not going to argue for or against, I am just trying to give you another option. Unless you have other problems or do not get it spiced or wired well you will have no issues.
Great advice NT. I think the reason most of us say to stay away from the EHC is because we don't have to know how like you just posted to do it correctly without harming it.
In the past with people adding on LED lights, GPS', air rides, driving lights and lots of others things then end up with a dead bike cause it wasn't done properly.
So glad you are here to guide us in the proper way when using or maintaining the EHC.

:cheers::cheers:
 

Coolbreezin

Active Member
NightTrain,
Much kudos for your in-depth post. It's people like you and posts like that that help others grow. I'm sure you've seen some "less than quality posts" on here. Again, thank you. I'll discuss this with my brother; he's the family mechanic.
Raywood,
Excellent response...and man you are so right! I've heard every reason to stay away from the EHC, and I planned on supporting that theory during my install.
Gentlemen,
I have much to ponder. I must retire to the study. lolol (That's the garage for us).

Thank you.
 
I understand Ray. The problem I usually saw when connecting something foreign to the EHC was the lack of understanding as you said but an as bad or bigger issue was the quality of the wiring job. Walmart but splices with bad crimps, not running wires away from sharp edges or other places that could damage them. I even had a bike come into BDM one time that just had the wires cut, twisted together and then loosely wrapped with electrical tape. This bike actually came in a legal last chance to fix. Didn't take long for us to find the problem. Little care, attention to detail and quality workmanship go a long way. You guys bought the best when you got a Big Dog, you probably have a toolbox full of snap-on parts, don't skimp when it comes time to wire your bike.
 

Raywood

The Pirate
Staff member
Calendar Participant
Troop Supporter
Little care, attention to detail and quality workmanship go a long way.
This is one of the biggest problems with our bikes. Some (not all) of the owners think they should only need to gas and go!!

I for one am always going over my bike with a "fine toothed comb" before any of my long rides. Must come from all that Military training!! :lol:

:cheers: :cheers:
 
Top