Draining Battery

Energy One

bigkelk9

Well-Known Member
My friend ... I love the technical debate. And I'm even going to surprise you.
You are absolutely right. And I totally agree with you. But let's try to understand it. You're right and your voltage, good. If there are no problems with the battery. If we have a problem with batteries, there diagnostic card. And check the charging system begins with this test. Precisely, if the indication less than 13.7 volts. But this does not mean, that the motorcycle to serviceable, is not enough for charging. understand what I'm saying?
There are obvious faults. And there are hidden, indirect faults. That's what would have to start the test a hidden fault, need to go far away.
I repeat once again: 13.7-14.3 is a completely normal value for battery charge. On a working system of charging and serviceable motorcycle.
I misunderstood ur post.. I ubderstood it as this is what you should have not a this is good on charging type deal.. This is what I got at idle which is about 800 rpms... The "LO" next to the voltage goes out when it gets above 12.5.. But I dont ever keep that screen on unless I have a charge concern.. I keep the clock screen on right there.. Lol
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Alexey

Active Member
Sorry, I did not understand the meaning of your question.
If you ask about the charge, it is not enough to charge. Spend the charging system test. The battery should provide 12.7 volts.
Look at the photo BWG56. These are good indications. But this does not mean that your motorcycle is strongly defective. Just remember about the problem and does not load the battery. Naturally, a long daily driving, I think everything will be okay. But in the future you need to do the test.
 

BadDawg Bill

Well-Known Member
I will not argue but there was another post by forum member where the same thing happened.
After installing lithium battery his voltage regulator shit it self.
Who knows how many Big Dog owners had the same experience with the OEM regulator.

Paul..
I don't know much about the new types of batteries but I bought an lithium battery for my computer backup and it came with a special charger. It said not to use a standard charger so do they work with our bikes?
 

TapioK

Well-Known Member
I don't know much about the new types of batteries but I bought an lithium battery for my computer backup and it came with a special charger. It said not to use a standard charger so do they work with our bikes?
One has to be a brave man to install lithium ion battery into a bike. Airlines ban tiny little Samsung for the risk of explosion.... real men happily rest their balls on top of 1000 times bigger lithium ion battery while charging it with OEM VR of witch only god knows how much voltage it pours into the battery .
Newer Lithium iron battery is much safer, at least if the quality of the Chinese control board happens to be good. One shouldn't use normal tender with these unless you wan't to fuck up the battery. Get a special charger meant for these...


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BadDawg Bill

Well-Known Member
One has to be a brave man to install lithium ion battery into a bike. Airlines ban tiny little Samsung for the risk of explosion.... real men happily rest their balls on top of 1000 times bigger lithium ion battery while charging it with OEM VR of witch only god knows how much voltage it pours into the battery .
Newer Lithium iron battery is much safer, at least if the quality of the Chinese control board happens to be good. One shouldn't use normal tender with these unless you wan't to fuck up the battery. Get a special charger meant for these...


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"One shouldn't use normal tender with these unless you wan't to fuck up the battery. Get a special charger meant for these..."

Correct So, do you have a "special charger on your Dawg running down the road?"

For years regular batteries have been good enough. They are cheap and work well. An $88 battery from Wal-mart is guaranteed for a year and should it fail you can return it for a new one. So like me if you buy a new battery on your birthday every year you are covered with no worries. In the 15 years I've been doing this I've only had 1 battery go bad in the year and they gave me a new one with a new yrs warranty.... Like getting 2 for 1.

All these new products just bring more and more headaches. Keep it old School and ride...
 
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bigkelk9

Well-Known Member
"One shouldn't use normal tender with these unless you wan't to fuck up the battery. Get a special charger meant for these..."

Correct So, do you have a "special charger on your Dawg running down the road?"

For years regular batteries have been good enough. They are cheap and work well. An $88 battery from Wal-mart is guaranteed for a year and should it fail you can return it for a new one. So like me if you buy a new battery on your birthday every year you are covered with no worries. In the 15 years I've been doing this I've only had 1 battery go bad in the year and they gave me a new one with a new yrs warranty.... Like getting 2 for 1.

All these new products just bring more and more headaches. Keep it old School and ride...
I had one battery take a crap on me due to my negligence.. I didnt check my posts and the positive came loose and melted the complete battery terminal.. At the time I was very thankful I didnt have the factory bdm ehc and wiring in it or I woulda been spending some real money. Shortly after I read a deal where someone on this site had done the same thing and it fried his ehc..
 

BWG56

Guru
:agree:, Get rid of those circuit breakers, put a 40 amp fuse in it place. And the bike should idle at 1000 rpm, 850 is to low.
:agree:
I don't think it was the bdm voltage regulators that were the issue but the circuitry as the update was replacing the circuit breaker with an inline fuse, for what it's worth I've researched this issue over and over and the circuit breaker was the problem not the vr originally bdm replaced the vr but it didn't fix the problem until the circuit breaker was replaced with a 40amp fuse block
:agree:
fuses.JPG 40amp.JPG
 
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