Does your oil look milky??

08ridgid

08ridgid

Active Member
We do use assembly lube when our engines are put together but that is probably not what the milky look is. That is probably from moisture due to short trips or starting and shutting off with out getting the engine totally warmed up.



Thanks,

S&S tech

After some discussion on another thread, I found this out, hope you can use this. Also for those of us who store the bike, the oil should be changed before the bike is put away. :cheers:
 
Chopper Dave

Chopper Dave

SIICK!!!
yep...thats why they say don't start your bike up for 5 minutes in the winter to warm it up...and then shut it off...cause thats not enough time to get the moisture out of the oil...so if your storing your bike for the winter...its best to not start it at all.....wait until spring...
 
REMorris

REMorris

OK Rider Shakey
There was another thread on the board somewhere from a guy with a brand new bike. I think he said it had less than 200 miles on it. He had that statement of the "oil looking milky" so he did a premature oil change.

In my opinion, in his case, it was the assembly lube (bearing guard and others) that caused the milkiness. And I think he made a big mistake changing it so soon. As someone replied, the initial breakin period counts on friction in several spots to seat various things like rings.

It's also a common mistake to switch to synthetic oil too soon in a new engine. Same problem, that the rings will not seat properly and you will have high oil consumption.

Big Dog has what I thought was a very reasonable breakin period and associated service schedule.

It would take an awful lot of condensation to make oil milky.

Just my opinion on this
Richard
 
08ridgid

08ridgid

Active Member
Thanks Rich, I just got my bike 01/01/09, haven't even rode it yet (livin in IL-snow/ice). I'm a gear head so I check these things (oil and what-not), I've always followed the prescribed break-in proceedures etc. This just looks off, and S&S says it shouldn't be there so...

The bike was in Texas all of last year, there is surface rust on some areas (the belt drive gear for one) so I know it's humid in Texas etc, I know the bike has 29 miles that I didn't put on it, so I'm assuming the worst, 29 not so nice miles etc.

I can see the swirls of contamination (my opinion) in the oil tank, thats what I'm concerned about.
 
seatmaker

seatmaker

Well-Known Member
Chopper Dave said:
yep...thats why they say don't start your bike up for 5 minutes in the winter to warm it up...and then shut it off...cause thats not enough time to get the moisture out of the oil...so if your storing your bike for the winter...its best to not start it at all.....wait until spring...
Click to expand...
New oil, new pipes, just changed to a richer jet for my new G carb, new 600 cam. Don't start it till spring, yea right :bang:
 
V

Vegas

Well-Known Member
Don't tell me you bought a brand new bike, haven't ridden it, and you haven't started it up multiple times at 10 at night after a few beers and not put it through a heat cycle. Not buying it!!! Very common to see a milky film on the inside or breather of a valve cover in this very situation on a car. That being said, assembly lube is to stop premature wear at initial start up. There are additives for break in but it's not to make more friction as far as I know. I know alot of the flat tappet guys are using additives to break in there cams due to low zinc in new oil. I wouldn't be afraid to drop the oil and change it. But I wouldn't start it without a heat cycle.
 
BigDogBro1

BigDogBro1

Made in the USA
IMO.

I have stored vehicles over the winter months for many years now. Disconnect, the battery, have fuel stabilizer already run throught it, have the battery on a 24/7 battery tender and change the oil/filter prior to storage. This way the acid contaminants in the oil won't harm seals and other surfaces. Even starting and stoping an engine after a few minutes running many times in the summer will turn the oil a milky gray color.

If you store it don't run it. The oil on the cylinder walls thins out during the long time between start-ups. If you start your enigine several times during the winter months you may increase the risk of cylinder wall scuffing. When I start my S&S engine this spring I plan to pull the plugs and and crank the enigine on the starter till the oil pressure comes up. I may even give a few squirts of motor oil to the cylinders and let sit before hand.
 
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REMorris

REMorris

OK Rider Shakey
08ridgid said:
Thanks Rich, I just got my bike 01/01/09, haven't even rode it yet (livin in IL-snow/ice). I'm a gear head so I check these things (oil and what-not), I've always followed the prescribed break-in proceedures etc. This just looks off, and S&S says it shouldn't be there so...

The bike was in Texas all of last year, there is surface rust on some areas (the belt drive gear for one) so I know it's humid in Texas etc, I know the bike has 29 miles that I didn't put on it, so I'm assuming the worst, 29 not so nice miles etc.

I can see the swirls of contamination (my opinion) in the oil tank, thats what I'm concerned about.
Click to expand...
If you honestly don't know what was done to your new bike (29 miles? it's new and you bought from a dealer, right? AND you have the full factory warranty, right?) I guess I can see why you might think of changing the oil. If you pull the dipstick out and look at the oil on it, does it look "milky"? At 29 miles, the decision on that should be made by a BDM dealership, not you. If you don't follow the schedule of breakin maintance, you give BDM a reason to void warranty. Plus the dealership can read the ECM and tell you how the bike has been run. So why aren't you saying anything about a dealer being involved?

Richard
 
bdmridgeback

bdmridgeback

Low Down Chop Shop
08ridgid said:
I know the bike has 29 miles that I didn't put on it, so I'm assuming the worst, 29 not so nice miles etc.
Click to expand...

I know back pre 2005 that all new BDM bikes that came into dealers from the factory had to have 25-30 miles put on each one and then the oil changed. That is why EVERY bike had those miles on them. I believe in 2005 BDM stopped the dealers from doing that oil change and isn't done until 500 miles now.
 
Chopper Dave

Chopper Dave

SIICK!!!
bdmridgeback said:
I know back pre 2005 that all new BDM bikes that came into dealers from the factory had to have 25-30 miles put on each one and then the oil changed. That is why EVERY bike had those miles on them. I believe in 2005 BDM stopped the dealers from doing that oil change and isn't done until 500 miles now.
Click to expand...
yep...my scoot had 25 miles on it from the factory when I bought it.....
 
08ridgid

08ridgid

Active Member
Richard, thanks for the input. The reason for me why the Dealer isn't involved is because I purchased the bike on-line from Texas, it was then transported to me via truck. I'm in Illinois.

There are alot of different opinons on this that I've read, I'm just leaning on my brothers to do what is right, I already love this bike, just trying to make it last.

Thanks
 
Mickeetwo

Mickeetwo

Guru
08ridgid said:
Richard, thanks for the input. The reason for me why the Dealer isn't involved is because I purchased the bike on-line from Texas, it was then transported to me via truck. I'm in Illinois.

There are alot of different opinons on this that I've read, I'm just leaning on my brothers to do what is right, I already love this bike, just trying to make it last.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Any Bigdog dealer or service center will honor your warranty
 
reloaderbmg

reloaderbmg

OLD DOG
one heat cycle is an engine that is started cold and run till it is at its operational temp.
but to "dry out" an engine [water is a by product of combustion]
you will need to run it until the heat drives off all the water & bi products of combustion!!!
 
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