Do I re-jet from stock for V&H Big Radius no baffles?

King Lear

Member
I just purchased an 06 K9 with the Kerker 2 into 1 exhaust. I am putting on a V&H Big Radius with the baffles out. I am in Nashville, TN so not up in the mountains, 679 ft elevation to be exact. Humidity is 70% average. Just wondering if anyone has had to re-jet the carb making this switch. Thanks in advance.
 

knothead

Second Chance Customs
You may have to riching it up a little...just depends on if its also got a different air cleaner on it also...most likely the intermediate jet may have to go up one size....way to tell is if it pops thru the carb its lean...if it stumbles and pops thru the exhaust while trying to accelerate its to rich....but before doing all that you need to verify if the air fuel mixture is in stock position....it should be, give or take, around 1 1/2 turns out from lightly seated.....ok to make this easier here is the pics from there web page or you can goggle s&s carb and download the pdf file to make it easier for you20200822_232640.jpg
20200822_232626.jpg
 

King Lear

Member
You may have to riching it up a little...just depends on if its also got a different air cleaner on it also...most likely the intermediate jet may have to go up one size....way to tell is if it pops thru the carb its lean...if it stumbles and pops thru the exhaust while trying to accelerate its to rich....but before doing all that you need to verify if the air fuel mixture is in stock position....it should be, give or take, around 1 1/2 turns out from lightly seated.....ok to make this easier here is the pics from there web page or you can goggle s&s carb and download the pdf file to make it easier for youView attachment 77088
View attachment 77090
Thanks
 
I just purchased an 06 K9 with the Kerker 2 into 1 exhaust. I am putting on a V&H Big Radius with the baffles out. I am in Nashville, TN so not up in the mountains, 679 ft elevation to be exact. Humidity is 70% average. Just wondering if anyone has had to re-jet the carb making this switch. Thanks in advance.
I would start by installing the new pipes and take it for a ride and see how the bike reacts to the new exhaust .. see if it hesitates or stumbles through the carb while rolling through different speeds (Jets).
from there pull the plugs and see if your running lean (white) or too rich (dark) and make your adjustments based of how it runs and the color of
your plugs .
 

Mikeinjersey

Well-Known Member
I just purchased an 06 K9 with the Kerker 2 into 1 exhaust. I am putting on a V&H Big Radius with the baffles out. I am in Nashville, TN so not up in the mountains, 679 ft elevation to be exact. Humidity is 70% average. Just wondering if anyone has had to re-jet the carb making this switch. Thanks in advance.
You may want to consider keeping the baffles in so you can get a feel for the power the bike has natural with the V&H. Your bike needs the back pressure provided by the baffles to achieve full torque and HP. I run my carbed 07 K9 with V&H radius pipes using Big City Thunder baffles and it sounds great with no noticeable loss of power. Might even have better power.
Read up on the pros and cons of straight pipes. I'm pretty sure S&S has a video on youtube that will show a dyno graph of the loss of power in the mid range, which is where your at most of the time, due to running drag pipes.
You will find lot's of opinions on this subject a lot has to do with personal preference.
Tip: Be sure to avoid exhaust leaks when you install the new pipes.
 
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mchllacey

Member
Are you putting on a Vance and Hines 2 into 1 ? I had to fatten up the mixture on my previous 07 K-9 with the big radius 2 into 1 with the baffles removed, it sputtered a lot when trying to cruise. Intermediate jetting solved the problem.
 

King Lear

Member
Are you putting on a Vance and Hines 2 into 1 ? I had to fatten up the mixture on my previous 07 K-9 with the big radius 2 into 1 with the baffles removed, it sputtered a lot when trying to cruise. Intermediate jetting solved the problem.
No, Im taking off the stock 2 into 1, I cant stand them and putting on the V&H Big Radius 2-2
 

King Lear

Member
I doubt I will need to change the air bleeds. I am assuming it is pretty close to tuning a double pumper on like I had on my 72 Corvette 383 Stroker. When I took the baffles out of the sidepipes I readjusted the air/fuel idle mixture bumped up the primary jets 1 and the secondary jets 2. That took the stuble out of it. I also was able to use my vacuum gauge to tune it which I assume I will not have that option on the K9.
 
I agree with the sound advice Mikeinjersey posted , I have two 2009 K9s , one has hand made custom one offs fitted with 3 inch baffle , other one has Vance & H , being from a racing background I did cut and refined the stock baffles , Mike is right running no baffles usually decreases HP , its also well known to not only cause premature wear on various parts but also the motor in general , these big thumpers like back pressure , over all running depends on it , if your purpose is for racing you have a ton of wrenching to set up properly to gain HP free flow , thats a complete other subject far to long for me to get in to ! there are also those who claim two in to one pipes tune out more HP , consider your goals first , Mike is spot on your first step is to strap on those bad boys stock , run her as hard as you can in as many different conditions , weather , open road, city , she will let you know whats works and complain when it dosent , from there at least you have a solid starting platform , read your plugs often , from there its all tuning , remember baby steps always , carbs are tricky , you may need mains , jets , etc. study SS charts and settings , always tune with a clean air breather , make small changes , keep it simple till you find the best combination for your motor and riding style , if and when your confident in your tune , I suggest strapping her to a dyno , spend the bucks to get a reliable base line ! From there if your still wanting open pipe , hey its your choice ! Go for it ! be certain you will be in for more tuning , parts , etc. Up to you Man ......After all its just my opinion !
I forgot to mention a much overlooked weak area common to S&S motors , many of you already know this but for those who dont , the stock factory gaskets used between the y pipe to heads suck big time , if they are leaking ya cant tune , and a bugger to change , it happens more often then most check , if you order from SS you get the same , they just dont last , for what its worth , I went to Harley shop and had them bring out all the different ones they had , I found a set close in size , lots harder and thicker , took some time with the dremel , few choice words , got them in , three years running so far , and hey for those looking for cheap HP gains , the stock Y pipe has lots of meat that can be cleaned up and shaved lol its not a mod recommended for rooky tuners ......
 

King Lear

Member
I agree with the sound advice Mikeinjersey posted , I have two 2009 K9s , one has hand made custom one offs fitted with 3 inch baffle , other one has Vance & H , being from a racing background I did cut and refined the stock baffles , Mike is right running no baffles usually decreases HP , its also well known to not only cause premature wear on various parts but also the motor in general , these big thumpers like back pressure , over all running depends on it , if your purpose is for racing you have a ton of wrenching to set up properly to gain HP free flow , thats a complete other subject far to long for me to get in to ! there are also those who claim two in to one pipes tune out more HP , consider your goals first , Mike is spot on your first step is to strap on those bad boys stock , run her as hard as you can in as many different conditions , weather , open road, city , she will let you know whats works and complain when it dosent , from there at least you have a solid starting platform , read your plugs often , from there its all tuning , remember baby steps always , carbs are tricky , you may need mains , jets , etc. study SS charts and settings , always tune with a clean air breather , make small changes , keep it simple till you find the best combination for your motor and riding style , if and when your confident in your tune , I suggest strapping her to a dyno , spend the bucks to get a reliable base line ! From there if your still wanting open pipe , hey its your choice ! Go for it ! be certain you will be in for more tuning , parts , etc. Up to you Man ......After all its just my opinion !
I forgot to mention a much overlooked weak area common to S&S motors , many of you already know this but for those who dont , the stock factory gaskets used between the y pipe to heads suck big time , if they are leaking ya cant tune , and a bugger to change , it happens more often then most check , if you order from SS you get the same , they just dont last , for what its worth , I went to Harley shop and had them bring out all the different ones they had , I found a set close in size , lots harder and thicker , took some time with the dremel , few choice words , got them in , three years running so far , and hey for those looking for cheap HP gains , the stock Y pipe has lots of meat that can be cleaned up and shaved lol its not a mod recommended for rooky tuners ......
My main motivation is the noise, the country road I drive everyday has idiots on it that pull out in front of people all the time. I'm not hunting for HP, I have a 17 road glide S&S 124" I get 148TQ/141HP out of. However I run the Tailgunners with the baffles in and have had no problems on the road glide. I will more than likely install them with the baffles in and see how it goes and then I can always take them out if people aren't hearing me. Thanks everyone for your input!
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
My main motivation is the noise, the country road I drive everyday has idiots on it that pull out in front of people all the time.
I might be doing it wrong, but if I just start from a dead stop, I go, 'a one ana two' drop the clutch, hope I timed the rpm it won't bog, and was it a clean getaway, no falling on its nose, no rat-tat-tat, just a linear clean pull up to about 2-300 feet and roll off. Nada pop, I leave the carb alone.

I might have the theory off, but it sounds easy enough if I have a supersonic wave out of the chamber, some of the unspent tags along, I have less TNT to blow up. I want that speed event to happen as high an rpm is keep spinning up the crankshaft, no bubble to fight slowing the speed. However, I have that [baffle] bubble on the reverse sonic wave, the gas is pushed back in some, and here is the little extra TNTorque on my bottom end.

I might have this one right is the insight of the hindsight. Hows that? I fucked up my own rule I preach. I'm 100% Concentration on the bike, but the split second situation is an experience. I took my eyes off the intersection; what was I thinking! That one piece of concentration of looking way out ahead all the time caught me out. I opened up that little truck like a can opener. Not one note of noise is going to stop that left hander turning in front of you. It's your eyes looking way up ahead to see the darting object out of the side roads/drives. It is spotting that car/debris up ahead is the caution sign. Intersections... yeah, too bad you don't have ABS you lock up the wheels. I heard the black box trigger the front tire; it kept it upright and boom! It's a beautiful thing when you can walk away from one.

Eyes over noise boys/girls.
 

King Lear

Member
All done, runs like a champ, loves to be at around 3000 rpms, 78 main jet, 36 intermediate, 42 air bleed, ejector nozzle o ring put on, new bowl gasket. I put in the Big City Thunder baffles. Had to re-jet, the previous owner had a 96 main jet and the ejector nozzle o-ring was missing
 

Mikeinjersey

Well-Known Member
All done, runs like a champ, loves to be at around 3000 rpms, 78 main jet, 36 intermediate, 42 air bleed, ejector nozzle o ring put on, new bowl gasket. I put in the Big City Thunder baffles. Had to re-jet, the previous owner had a 96 main jet and the ejector nozzle o-ring was missing
Hi King, just curious what did the 42 air bleed do for you? I have 07 k9 with a Super G carb, V&H 2-2 , BCT baffles and stock intake. Virtually the same setup as you. I'm running a 32 intermediate/ 78 main and stock 40 air bleed. My bike runs great but my idle mixture screw adj needs to be at 2 to 2 1/4 turns out to accomplish this. According to S&S adj procedure I should increase my intermediate jet to make the setup correct or at least closer to the target of 1 1/2 to 1/3/4 adj on the mixture screw. How many turns out do you have on your bike and what roll did the 42 air bleed play in your decision. Thanks
 

King Lear

Member
Hi King, just curious what did the 42 air bleed do for you? I have 07 k9 with a Super G carb, V&H 2-2 , BCT baffles and stock intake. Virtually the same setup as you. I'm running a 32 intermediate/ 78 main and stock 40 air bleed. My bike runs great but my idle mixture screw adj needs to be at 2 to 2 1/4 turns out to accomplish this. According to S&S adj procedure I should increase my intermediate jet to make the setup correct or at least closer to the target of 1 1/2 to 1/3/4 adj on the mixture screw. How many turns out do you have on your bike and what roll did the 42 air bleed play in your decision. Thanks
I am at about 1 1/5 turns out but I am running a 36 intermediate jet. The only reason I put a 42 air bleed in is because the head on the 40 stock jet was all chewed up. I dont think it really made any difference at all for the air bleed.
 
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