Damn Head Light

Dirk

Member
Okay, am I just doomed to have electrical issues, or is this an easy fix? I have replaced my headlight four times this week!:bang: I just had the EHC replaced on Saturday, and my headlight was working when I got to the dealer, but when I was leaving, the low beam poped. They were closing the doors, and I wanted to go ridding this weekend, so I took it feeling it would be an easy fix. Well four bulbs at 10-20 bucks a piece later, I getting a little pissed off. Where do I begin?:confused:
 

Dirk

Member
I check that thread out, and I did check my wires, and there is nothing exposed or shorted. I called the dealer who installed the EHC, and they are claiming it cannot be the EHC. Don't believe that, but could it be the voltage regulator not working properly, and sending to much voltage through the headlight?
 

CCRainman

Well-Known Member
Dirk, I think it can be caused by the vibration. I blew a bunch of light bulbs a while back and it was caused by vibration. Make sure that the rubber gasket is seated properly when you put the headlight back together. That was my problem after 3 bulbs. Finally got it right.
 

Dirk

Member
Thanks for pointing this out Rainman, I don't even have a rubber gasket. Where is supposed to be?
 

Raywood

The Pirate
Staff member
Calendar Participant
Troop Supporter
Thanks for pointing this out Rainman, I don't even have a rubber gasket. Where is supposed to be?
Dirk, there is a big rubber suction piece on the rear of the headlight that helps absorb shock. Most people don't even realize that you don't just put it on but it almost snaps in when you stretch it over the back of the bulb plug.

Then you have the rubber seal between the retaining ring and the back of the headlight before the final two rings go on. You should put a bead of RTV around this one.

There are pics on there somewhere of the rubber shock absorber. This Gas Man has them on here.

:cheers:


Here is a pic of the boot on the back of the headlight and the seal on the outer ring.
 

Dirk

Member
Well, Maybe that explains alot, because I don't have either one of those in my bucket! Are these readily available, or can I use something else? Also would this explain my bulbs burning out every day or so?
 

bdmridgeback

Low Down Chop Shop
The boot on the rear of the lens is a moisture barrier only. It does nothing for shock and if you don't have one, the only thing you'll get is moisture haze in the headlight. The big round rubber ring that goes inbetween the lens and mounting backplate may serve a little bit of vibration resistance, but not much. If you are buying good Sylvania H4 Bulbs, then i would say you have a problem down the line further.

When the dealer JUST put my new EHC in my bike they were supposed to fill the sockets full of dielectric grease on the EHC plugs. When i took the EHC out, 80% of the pins were dry.

The dealer may not have put ANY grease on the EHC plugs and it is getting a bad connection.

H4 bulbs are used in almost every motorcycle and snowmobile made. They are about the most reliable bulb on the market as long as you are buying a good brand name bulb. I would say that you have a bad connection somewhere. I would take it back to the dealer and have them check out that EHC and the connections myself.
 

CCRainman

Well-Known Member
Dirk, that outer ring in the pic is what was causing me all my problems. Believe it or not it takes a lot of the vibration out of the bucket. You maybe able to pick up the boot and the seal at your local HD store if you don't have a BDM dealer near you. That's where I got mine from.
 

ChopperJeff

Active Member
Headlight... I had the same issue

Funny... I had the exact same problem a few months ago. I was going through headlight bulbs as they would only last any where from one day to a week. I replaced the wire harness that goes from the headlight to the connector under the tank thinking that would do the trick, but to no avail.

Then one day I popped the seat to take a gander at the battery voltage and there was a wire coming off of the battery post that was just hanging on by one thin thread. I repaired it and haven't had any issues.

However, this wire was also causing my Speedometer to work intermittently, though that problem didn't occur until several weeks after the bulb burning out problem.

I suspect the wire, even though making a connection, would then become intermittent under the vibration, and basically was causing the light to flicker, perhaps too fast though to perceive, but enough to stress the filaments.

I'm sure you've checked all the wiring, but did you give them all a real stress test? I would not only look at them and check continuity, but would give each one a good yank and insure that they are fully connected, both in the electrical, but more importantly in the mechanical sense.

And by the way, my current headlight bucket has no rubber ring on the front, so I doubt that's your problem.

Hope I haven't beaten this to death. I was all set to directly wire the headlight to the battery, with a switch of course installed, just to rule out the EHC. Then I pop the seat, notice a poor connection, and presto... all fixed!





Okay, am I just doomed to have electrical issues, or is this an easy fix? I have replaced my headlight four times this week!:bang: I just had the EHC replaced on Saturday, and my headlight was working when I got to the dealer, but when I was leaving, the low beam poped. They were closing the doors, and I wanted to go ridding this weekend, so I took it feeling it would be an easy fix. Well four bulbs at 10-20 bucks a piece later, I getting a little pissed off. Where do I begin?:confused:
 

Rottie

Member
Check your headlight bucket at the mounting bracket for crack's also! I had one break two month's ago...
 

Dirk

Member
Thanks for all the input on this guys. I have checked the wires coming off the battery, and they are all good. I also installed a piece of rubber behind the light to help absorb some of the vibration. I think I have figured it out though, but someone please correct me if I am wrong. On a hunch, I decided to check the the voltage to the battery a arround 3,000 RPM's, and it peaked around 16 volts. I think my voltage regulator took a dump, because that seems to high. So would this excessive voltage cause the bulbs to fail so often?
 

MARV

Well-Known Member
yea thats too high. plus you should have a breaker in line from the VR to the battery that should have tripped.
 

BigDogBro1

Made in the USA
Thanks for all the input on this guys. I have checked the wires coming off the battery, and they are all good. I also installed a piece of rubber behind the light to help absorb some of the vibration. I think I have figured it out though, but someone please correct me if I am wrong. On a hunch, I decided to check the the voltage to the battery a arround 3,000 RPM's, and it peaked around 16 volts. I think my voltage regulator took a dump, because that seems to high. So would this excessive voltage cause the bulbs to fail so often?
As I was reading down through the posts I felt that the voltage was too high and was blowing out bulbs.

Then I found this - good diagnosis!!!

Sounds like the VR is failing. 14.8 volts is normal on autos. The breaker would only trip if current draw is excessive, not the voltage. As the voltage increases the current draw on the same load will decrease.

Could cause damage to the other electronics as well if they don't have over-voltage limiting or clamping.

just my 2 cents worth.
 

Dirk

Member
Okay, now where can I find a good price for a voltage regulator. As you can tell from the original post, I am at my limit for maintence budget for this year!
 

BigDogBro1

Made in the USA
I'm assuming its a standard circuit breaker device-

Can a dealer test the VR before you buy a new one? If not call BDM and ask if 16v is too high of voltage - I'm sure that it is as well. Sorry don't know of a source for the VR but I'm sure someone will chime in.
 

Dirk

Member
Yes, I do have the standard circuit breaker on my bike. I just finnished reading the entire 8 page thread about the recall and modification for the 04-05 regulators. Should I just replace the regulator with the new ones, and throw an in line fuse between the C.B. and the battery, or should I completely remove the C.B.??? Are the new regulators a dealer only item, or can I get one somewhere else cheaper?
 

Dirk

Member
Damn It!!! Thanks for the help, again! Guess I'll give the vet a shout and get one ordered! Any idea what I can expect to pay for one?
 
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