Cylinder cut out when hot

[k9nut]

I have been having problems with the engine misfiring and quiting the last 200-300 miles. The latest was in Las Vegas last week. In heavy stop and go traffic it started to misfire and heavy back firing from the exhaust. After about 1-2 minutes the engine stopped and backfired back through the carb. I was in a middle lane so had to push the bike in traffic about 1/4 mile before anyone would let me get to the shoulder (and they talk about CA drivers :angry: )

I have a 2006 K9 not injected with 14,600 miles. This was not a problem for over 14K miles

I talked to the Big Dog rep at the show and he said it was normal when the engine got hot for the EHC to stop ignition to the rear cylinder. I then talked to Mark from Pat Clark and he showed me in his manual that the ignition would cut out at high temperature. I did question him about my not having a fuel injected bike and he said that it was true for all bikes. He suggested getting an oil cooler to fix the problem. I have a 2006 Service Manual and my manual does not have the notation about cutting ignition to the rear cylinder when hot. It also does not show an oil temp sensor or input to the EHC on the wiring diagram.

My questions are has anyone with a carb engine had this problem and is there any information about an overheating ignition cutout on the 06's. If it is in fact the EHC monitoring the temps will an oil cooler fix it. Does any one have any ideas of other reasons for the cutting out. I have been through the fuel system and carb adjustments with Raymond and didn't find anything. Thank you for any help or sugestions.

Gary C

 

[05ridgeback]

i cant believe the ehc is causing this. mine got real hot once and the oil light came on. but still ran fine. that was with the break in oil. i put synthetic in and the oil temp has never gone over 210 degrees.

if the ehc is causing it , it may be its going bad. i had some issues with my brights not working when i was riding and the tech looked at my ehc only to find the 2 studs holding it had broken which meant my ehc was bouncing around when i was riding

 

[k9nut]

i cant believe the ehc is causing this. mine got real hot once and the oil light came on. but still ran fine. that was with the break in oil. i put synthetic in and the oil temp has never gone over 210 degrees.

if the ehc is causing it , it may be its going bad. i had some issues with my brights not working when i was riding and the tech looked at my ehc only to find the 2 studs holding it had broken which meant my ehc was bouncing around when i was riding

I don't think he was saying the EHC was bad. He was saying it was normal operation for the EHC to not provide ignition to the rear cylinder to cool the engine. I know this is normal for a fuel injected engine but I don't think the carb engine even has an oil temp sensor. I am not a wrench so was hoping someone could tell me if I was correct or not. I have a problem making myself understood if I am not face to face so excuse me if I ramble on. Thank you for your comments and help.

 

[pig pen]

oil cooler won't be much help if you are not moving.

 

[reloaderbmg]

i & a lot of riders in fla. have two coolers, on thier bikes & yes it helps
between stops there are a lot of threads on coolers!!!!

 

[05chop]

It also does not show an oil temp sensor or input to the EHC on the wiring diagram. First of this i have heard about the overheat sensor .This sounds like the rear Cly isn't getting correct spark!Possible plug,plug wire,thunder heart module or intake leak.Also check volts @ the battery.

 

[Little-Boo]

According to the 06 service manual for my Mastiff, the ignition module gets power directly from the EHC and distriutes power to the ignition coil; signal is provided by the crank position senor. Three LED's are located on the ignition module one red, one yellow and one blue.

The Red LED lights up where there is power to the ignition module from the EHC and will blink when the crank senor signal is recieved.

Yellow and blue LED's will blink when the front and rear cyclinder are triggered.

The above is right out of the manual.

My personal experience with something like that has been either ignition coil or ignition moduel failure. Sometimes when the coil or the module get hot they take a shit on you and work again when they cool down. I would check the blue wire (Rear Cylinder) at the coil to make sure the conection is nice and tight. If it is I would replace the Coil before replacing the ignition module. The module would be the next thing I would replace. I don't think your problem has anything to do with the EHC. But that is me and that is the way I would approach this situation.



Carlos

 

[dogvet]

He was saying it was normal operation for the EHC to not provide ignition to the rear cylinder to cool the engine.

The EHC only provides power to the ignition system, It has no control of the spark to either cylinder. Non EFI bikes have no means of monitoring engine temps nor are there any temperature sensors on non EFI bikes.

 

[woodbutcher]

sounds like the coil screwin' up or maybe a cracked spark plug.

 

[Gas Man]

I agree.. the coil. I have a spare in good condition I can sell ya if you find it to truely be that.

And as stated... the oil cooler won't help in traffic, other than to just have more oil circulating

 

[k9nut]

Thank you all for the information and help. I didn't think the carb bikes had this feature but a factory trained tech said it did so I wasn't sure. The plugs have been changed many times so I will see if there is anything visually wrong with the coil. I am not sure how you check the coil electrically for an intermittent problem. This problem has occurred when the engine was at normal temps and not hot. I guess I will have to check out our new dealer in Costa Mesa.

Gary C

 

[stlmikie]

Would my coil and OG ignition system fit K9nut's scoot?

 

[BigDognSoCal]

Try eating pussy, always gets my coil working...:up:

 

[stlmikie]

If you had a pussy, I wouldn't eat it.