condition bike lurches forward : then stalls

[BigDog2005_chopper]

Im noticing on a cold start/ < Meaning letting the bike sit over night.

I always roll in drive way , shift to neutral and leave it parked this way.

The next morning. I go thru start up. Press decompression rear head, decomression fron head, the stop, then run then. START.

fires right up, but as soon as i shift into 1st gear. LURCHES FORWARD then,

STALLS. grrrrrr. why.

It can't be the clutch for when bike is warm it doesn't do this. It pissing me off.

what can fix this?

Ty fellow experts.

ps. ON a separate note: i need to get the rubber insert made for my real pully. I"M NOT gonna keep buying soft alumimum for the belt to wear and slip time after time.

Or

I can just hire a machine shop to make me rear pully out of the same material
the front pully is made of. It hasn't wore a bit.

what is the contact info for this person. email and phone. Thanks so much.

 

[Little-Boo]

I guess you could let it warm up

Carlos

 

[francoblay1]

I always let it warm up for 5 minutes before taking off, also... I do pull & release the clutch lever 2-3 times before getting the bike into gear...

It seems to work for me.

 

[Brew]

You should actually let the scoot warm up until the rocker boxes get warm. I do work the clutch while its warming up also as Franco does. Important thing is let the scoot warm up...

 

[BBChopper]

Warm up is a must with Evo's you will blow the jug base gaskets. Plus work the clutch as stated, you also may have too much primary fluid or the wrong type. I use standard HD.

 

[liferider]

Just get an open primary, everything will be fixed!

 

[Sven]

It sounds like clutch drag when cold. Everything else is fine when warm. So that's finding N when warm; No lurch when warm; No driveability problems fuel wise, meaning, starts cold immediately.

I can:

1. Inspect my clutch pack to my wave plate not being flat when clutch is out. I see a cone like appearance the pressure plate makes, not flat like an aluminum style made pressure plate. So if applies, first a visual at the wave plate. If the aluminum plate applies, then remove the pack and inspect plate(s) for warp and replace.

2. Figure my bike shifts fine when warm so I do not need to adjust my clutch. I need to run the bike, straddle the bike, roll the bike down a hill, move the bike initially, so I override the initial sticking of the clutch plates that is not stopping the main-shaft when cold.

3. I hold the clutch in, aim the bike as if I'm going to leave the driveway, hit the starter, see if this breaks the plates. By doing this I:
a. Want to take off and ride slow in rpm's as it creeps and takes off on me. I am not about to blow out any gasket or it would have a long time ago. I now throttle up and down as I feed clutch. I did not grind gears, I was already in gear.
b. No offense, but start to leave at a traffic light like you stole it. Same apply cold, but step down the aggressiveness leaving on the creep. This is how you compensate for a sticky clutch pack.
c. Rebuild the clutch so N never grinds into first or my swollen ankle has a sports wrap I go looking for N.

Yes, I'm a graduate of Throttle Apply School You stall once, no diploma for you. Your graduation date, time and place are written on a blown base gasket. :roll:

 

[mml03102]

fluid

Warm up is a must with Evo's you will blow the jug base gaskets. Plus work the clutch as stated, you also may have too much primary fluid or the wrong type. I use standard HD.

Will to much fluid also make it hard to downshift?

 

[Sven]

Centrifugal force is flinging off any excess oil either way, so no, once the clutch breaks, shifting is the same.

 

[liferider]

Cold or hot the clutch should grab the same. If it's grabbing and lurching farwards when the clutch is cold but not when it warms up. There is a problem that needs fixing. I would call Andrew and chat with him.

 

[Sven]

Cold or hot the clutch should grab the same.

Agreed.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'll assume a wave plate as a pressure plate design on this bike. An aluminum plate uses springs around that cover to act as the pressure plate. The wave plate is the one huge spring and a cover to keep that wave plate in there.

The flatter I am says:

1. My pack of plates are thick, new and fat to push it flat.
2. My wave is flat and that says I am at my strongest push as I spring back to memory.
3. My being flat is that I am about to flex the other way I am so easy to shift gears, find N.
4. My variable is I am not in your garage looking over your shoulder. Where is that wave of a plate or correct me if I am wrong... We are working on a what does this guy look like?

How much wave, may it forever wave :flag:

 

[liferider]

That's why I use a lockup clutch! It's either in or out and when it's in it only grabs HARDER!

 

[BBChopper]

Wind Farm,

 

[bearman]

start by changing the primary fluid.

I've never heard of anyone having to replace the rear pulley more than once. make sure you put a new belt on with the new pulley. the front pulley is made of steel, mine is rusty except for where the belt rides on it.

 

[BigDogBro1]

There was a company that would machine down your original pulley and install a polymer tooth pulley back on. Do a search on the forum.

 

[SCOTTx88]

Supermax.