Compression Release , Starter ?

[Jersey Big Mike]

So .. have a starter coming 2nd day.

Still cranking slow. 13.15 v. prior to crank.

Front compression release I can feel functioning .

Rear CR I can manually push down, don't feel any response when cranking. The WD-40 I have been putting on is showing up on the plug.

The old Deka batt charges up better then the new ? 12 .6 overnight new ( showed full charge on charger ) , 13.15 old charged for about 3 hrs . Using batt tender to charge.

Just cranking very slow with plugs in. Even with rear CR manually pressed.

Don't have time to sort out and source compression release and tool and make Daytona. Map Q says 17 hr drive .

I will remove remove rear cover and inspect wiring on CR.

So I am rolling the dice a new starter will get me on the road and thru Daytona.

Search the site -- I believe there is a CR tool that someone has that gets loaned to users as needed.
Also there are notes on how someone modded a socket to make a CR removal tool.
If you're going to roll the dice, make sure you have AAA Plus RV -- they will tow bikes properly (flatbed).
Also a microstart (jumpbox) might help on rough days. Good to have anyway.

 

[Jwooky]

Hopefully the starter is your issue. I assume you checked the cables and they are all tight and in good shape. You can burn a lot of current through high resistance wires and connections.

I would not worry about one CR. You can easily hold one down if need be until you sort it out.

 

[Chong]

Thanks,

Seems like a good argument to get a second Dog K-9s keep calling my name ....
Thanks,

If my trailer was set up complete I would take the Electra for back up , As is holds one bike.

Yeah gotta pocket jump devise.

If it flat doesn't respond to the starter probably won't leave home.

 

[Chong]

Cables look very good.

No blemishes, very clean ends. Zero corrosion. Probably factory, they have 2nd layer of abrasion insulation.

 

[Mickmorris]

Thanks,

Seems like a good argument to get a second Dog K-9s keep calling my name ....
Thanks,

If my trailer was set up complete I would take the Electra for back up , As is holds one bike.

Yeah gotta pocket jump devise.

If it flat doesn't respond to the starter probably won't leave home.

Two Dogs are definitely better than one. Certainly don’t want to be broke down during Bike Week. You can always reschedule for Biketoberfest! Cheers Brother! I am sure you will get to the bottom of the deal.

 

[Chong]

Oh and checking engine timing, have to look that up...

And now my trucks alternator is sending me messages, LMAO...

 

[Mikeinjersey]

Oh and checking engine timing, half look that up...

And now my trucks alternator is sending me messages, LMAO...

Just a thought: Get your batteries load tested. That's the only way to know for sure if they are good. Even the new one could be defective. Also the compression releases are activated for only 1 second when you start cranking then they are deactivated because now you need good compression for the engine to start. If your cranking unusually slow it's not the releases because they are closed. Bad compression releases cause possible abrupt no cranking but not slow cranking.

 

[Th3InfamousI]

So .. have a starter coming 2nd day.

Still cranking slow. 13.15 v. prior to crank.

Front compression release I can feel functioning .

Rear CR I can manually push down, don't feel any response when cranking. The WD-40 I have been putting on is showing up on the plug.

The old Deka batt charges up better then the new ? 12 .6 overnight new ( showed full charge on charger ) , 13.15 old charged for about 3 hrs . Using batt tender to charge.

Just cranking very slow with plugs in. Even with rear CR manually pressed.

Don't have time to sort out and source compression release and tool and make Daytona. Map Q says 17 hr drive .

I will remove remove rear cover and inspect wiring on CR.

So I am rolling the dice a new starter will get me on the road and thru Daytona.

The rear compression release is the common one for carbon buildup, but if you can push it down with your finger you should be able to feel it with start button.

I need to replace them on my K9, if it sits for a few days and I don't press the rear one down with my finger a couple times to loosen it up first it won't start. First push is always harder than the second, just gummed up with carbon.

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

 

[bdm7250]

@Rideraa let me know if you'd like me to send you my CR tool, just shoot me a PM with full name and address.

 

[Chong]

bdm7250

I will let you know when ready.

I will be replacing them at this point.

Your bike looks fantastic in the black picture POTM.

Thanks ,

 

[Chong]

Another question..

When manually pressing the CR, do you take pressure off (stop pressing) after 1st compession stroke ?

Thanks.

 

[Mickmorris]

Another question..

When manually pressing the CR, do you take pressure off (stop pressing) after 1st compession stroke ?

Thanks.

Yes. I actually like the old style compression release like on my TP 107. So easy to get to & replace.

 

[Mikeinjersey]

Another question..

When manually pressing the CR, do you take pressure off (stop pressing) after 1st compession stroke ?

Thanks.

Yes and if you want to test operation of CR's without cranking the engine just pull the green wire off the starter and you can listen and feel the CR's without the distraction.

 

[john sachs]

Here's another area to be checked. I find it on Twin Cam heads also. The pressure relief port in the exhaust port gets plugged up frequently with oil, and carbon. When that happens, the relief pressure can't exit. I unclog with a steel rod, air pressure, and brake cleaner.
John

 

[Chong]

Starter is on, works much better..

It did start, high RPM's. Shut it down.

New problem, fuel dumping out the port below the fuel enrichment ??

I did drain fuel from tank line and bowl, found no impurities.

At one point I rest the carb to the S&S base line settings. May have over tightened the accelerator pump.?

I did get it to squirt fuel this afternoon.

Going to pull bowl and look for debris etc.



Thanks all.

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

Starter is on, works much better..

It did start, high RPM's. Shut it down.

New problem, fuel dumping out the port below the fuel enrichment ??

I did drain fuel from tank line and bowl, found no impurities.

Going to pull bowl and look for debris etc.



Thanks all.

Before you pull the bowl.
Start the bike and turn off the petcock and run it till it stops
tap the carb afterwards.
turn petcock back on and start up and run then turn off and see if that knocks the dirt out (Used to happen to my Mikuni on my old bike)

 

[Mickmorris]

Starter is on, works much better..

It did start, high RPM's. Shut it down.

New problem, fuel dumping out the port below the fuel enrichment ??

Going to pill bowl and look for debris etc.

Thanks all.

Damn if it ain’t one thing it’s another. I had that same problem. Did a complete carb rebuild & that took care of it. Found the accelerator pump was not working correctly. If you do this be very careful when you take the accelerator pump apart. 2 small ball bearings & spring under the cover. Just remove it very slowly and keep pressure on it until you have the screws out.

 

[Mickmorris]

If you did the factory reset and it was high rpm when you started it you likely have the idle set screw turned in to far. I found backing it off until it just about touches then start the bike and adjust up. It is very small amount to get to much on the throttle plate.

 

[Chong]

Back at it today

Two dogs Mick ! nice

Thanks

 

[john sachs]

Easy task when replacing an accelerator pump assy. in a S&S Carb. Install the new pump parts, ball bearings, spring, diaphragm, etc. HOLD everything in place with a feeler gauge. Put the cover over the feeler gauge and parts. Screw down cover, and slide feeler gauge out. Works like a champ.
John