Cold Blooded...

InDaDogHouse

Active Member
Ok, I probably got carried away with the Idle mixture screw. So, I will go into the garage and turn the idle mixture screw 1and1/4 turns counter clockwise from when it is lightly seated, I will make sure I have the accelerator adjustment screw 2 turns counter clockwise from seated (should be, since I did that and haven't touched it since) and the Idles screw, I will turn clock wise about 1/2 turn after engagement. Then I will try to start it and go from there. I will be back.

Mike
 

InDaDogHouse

Active Member
Ok, went out there, and set the carb to the factory settings according to the S&S guide. I went outside to start the bike without the enricher, it fired right up, and was idling super high (about 3000 rpms) I even turned the idle screw back counter clockwise a touch, and turned the accelerator adjust screw back in a little, and started again, still screaming high rpm/s?? No popping though cause it is reving too high. I am going to turn the acccelerator screw ina little more and try and start again.
 

Raywood

The Pirate
Staff member
Calendar Participant
Troop Supporter
Ok, went out there, and set the carb to the factory settings according to the S&S guide. I went outside to start the bike without the enricher, it fired right up, and was idling super high (about 3000 rpms) I even turned the idle screw back counter clockwise a touch, and turned the accelerator adjust screw back in a little, and started again, still screaming high rpm/s?? No popping though cause it is reving too high. I am going to turn the acccelerator screw ina little more and try and start again.
If your idle is too high then just turn in the idle adjustment screw in. Don't mess with the other two for just the idle.

One thing at a time!

Make sure your enrichener is all the way down. If up just a little it will cause your bike to idle fast.

Once warmed up adjust the air/fuel screw per instructions. Leave the accelerator alone for now. S&S recommends just shutting it off while tuning the carb.

Make sure you have that battery on a tender with all the starting.

:cheers:
 

lee

Well-Known Member
sounds like you might have turned the idle speed screw by mistake. Back it out to reduce the idle speed down to around 1000. Black plugs also don't necessarily mean you are running rich. Pump gas will do that. A quick way to clean them up a little bit is to blast them with a blow torch to burn the carbon off. Also, make your carb adjustments (idle speed. idle mixture etc) with the engine warmed up and idling nicely.
 
I'm confused, did you start messing with the carb adjustments because of the popping. when did it start popping after you adjusted the clutch? if you removed the exhaust to adjust the clutch you may have messed up your exhaust gaskets and have an air leak which will cause popping. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
 

ZZ CHOP

Member
Mike remember to tune your carb with the engine warm, at least 5 minutes is what i like, gasoline traveling through a cold intake doesn't atomize very well, meaning the fuel droplets are heavy,the warmer the engine the finer the fuel droplets become for a better burn,this is one of the reasons a cold engine has to be coached/ feathered the throttle to keep it running, sounds like in your first post your running to lean to start with, then you made it worse by turning air/fuel screw inward, this was when the popping came in by being more lean, just listen to your engine while turning air/ fuel screw you can hear what it likes or doesn't like, if it still doesn't start good while cold by giving the throttle a couple of twist, pull the breather and look in the venture/ body and make sure your getting a shot of gas from the first twist,the pump cylinder has a check ball and seat that that gas could be seeping by, but i wouldn't think about buying a new carb, theirs plenty of people here that will walk you through this.good luck ..Dave.
 

Staffy

Active Member
If your idle is too high then just turn in the idle adjustment screw in. Don't mess with the other two for just the idle.

One thing at a time!

Make sure your enrichener is all the way down. If up just a little it will cause your bike to idle fast.

Once warmed up adjust the air/fuel screw per instructions. Leave the accelerator alone for now. S&S recommends just shutting it off while tuning the carb.

Make sure you have that battery on a tender with all the starting.

:cheers:
Stick to the plan and S&S documentation - SLOW DOWN - you are nearly there....check the enricher like Raywood suggested THEN adjust the IDLE screw THEN, the air mixture screw THEN again the idle screw and finally the accel pump. :2thumbs::2thumbs:
 

Jersey James

Jersey James
Mike: I live near you, (Port Richey). I have only seen one other BDM, in West Pasco. Ever go down to the Cotee River Bar on Thursday night, bike night? Just off US 19 on Grand Blvd. Pretty much, a good crowd.
 

InDaDogHouse

Active Member
Ok guys, I got her running damn good. First of all I want to thank all of you for the help. I would not have been able to do this without all your help. I have been waiting for this bike for 4 years, so it is pretty much a dream come true to me. Now my two other toys are on the back burner.:D So when something goes wrong, that I am not too familiar with I get:angry: But to try and cut this down, without a 20 mile post, I went out to the bike and adjusted the carb to the factory settings like the S&S guide said. The bike was idling too high, because my throttle sticks and it was stuck on a little when I adjusted the idle screw. I need to figure out how to get the throttle to snap back like it should without sticking, but thats another story. I am happy right now that it is running better than when I got it. When I originally fucked with the idle-air mixture screw, I had it almost all the way in. I am amazed that it even ran at all no wonder it was popping! When I adjusted the clutch, I didn't pull the exhaust, I went through the derby cover. I seemed to notice it after that, but I hadn't started the thing in about a week, but I think the problem also was that since I got it, I have been running long times with the enricher on. I know I am :loony: But now I know. I never had the problem with the choke on my Harley. I would pull out the choke, and gradually put the choke in in about 2 miles, it would be totally in. This is a whole different breed. So anyway the bike was pretty cold, at least 3-4 hours since I had it running and popping, and it started right up without the enricher, I got it idling great, no popping, or back firing (just some minor back firing) at decel due to pipes But she ran beautiful. Pulled the plugs, they only had a few miles on them, but looked great. Next weekend I will get her warmed up, and fine tune the carb adjustments. even though I got it pretty good right now, I didn't fuck with it again after it was warm, since it ran great, and the ole lady was busting my friggin balls to go get something to eat. I owe you guys some beers and drinks! Too bad you all live too far away to hit my garage kegerator. You guys :whoop: Thanks again to each and everyone here for the awesome help. Hey Jersey James, I am sending you a PM.
Later guys! THANKS!:cheers::cheers::cheers:
Mike
 

mobsta

Well-Known Member
if your throttle is sticking try loosening the control clamping screws alittle and see if it snaps back.may need to move he controls alittle bit.may also need to lube it.i have aftermarket grips from xoproducts and i had the grip stick some.adjusted good to go.just something to look at.good luck
 

InDaDogHouse

Active Member
Ok, thanks, I will look at it this week. Back to the grind today. Won't have time to look at the Dog until saturday night.:job: Man, I feel like drinking already:eek:, Long ass shitty week. Today is my Monday. Alright enough crying. I'll let you know how it goes with the throttle.
Later
Mike
 

RCAdd1ct

JAFO
If you have both throttle cables to tight they fight each other. Try loosening the return cable a little and see if it helps.

Lubeing the cables is a good general maintenance, though.

Make sure you do the clutch cable, too.
 
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