Clutch slippiing

cdogg556

Guru
Went for a ride Sat. and noticed that when I get on it in 3rd or 4th gear that the clutch slips! It's not noticable any other time, only when I get on it hard! So I been reading up on this and found a few threads about it and alot of guys are running B&M Trick Shift(Non-Synthetic) in thier primary, I don't know what is in mine since the dealer serived it when I bought it. So just wondering if using the B&M oil is the right choice, and then if that's not it I am assuming the clutch plates are worn out, I have 12,500 mi on the bike so it wouldn't surprise me if they are, but before I replace them I thought I'd try the oil!:cheers:
 

Jwooky

Well-Known Member
Mine did the same and it turned out to be the clutch hub nut was loose.

The gears are helical cut in 4th-6th so they create side load under acceleration.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
If it was the nut, every gear would be a problem, right? Let the oil breakdown as if it was synthetic? That, or change out the steels and frictions. So, before the service, no slip, yes? After service, fresh oil, maybe syn, now it slips? That, or it's the pack losing stack-height? Lose height, that lets the springs move out, right? If it's a wave plate and this is the pressure made, it could be concave in the static, not flat, where the plates push that plate flat.

So the deal is a bird killing of the two, meaning, the pack is out, now check the center nut. Nut tight, then it was the pack.
 

Jwooky

Well-Known Member
"If it was the nut, every gear would be a problem, right?"

Incorrect, because of the side loading it will only occur in 4th-6th.
 

c.c.rider

Well-Known Member
Mine started slipping around 25K and it was the plates. I run B&M and haven't had any problems. I would pull the plates and check the stack up and you can check the hub nut and throw out bearing that way you no for sure. better safe than sorry.
 

BWG56

Guru
Went for a ride Sat. and noticed that when I get on it in 3rd or 4th gear that the clutch slips! It's not noticable any other time, only when I get on it hard! So I been reading up on this and found a few threads about it and alot of guys are running B&M Trick Shift(Non-Synthetic) in thier primary, I don't know what is in mine since the dealer serived it when I bought it. So just wondering if using the B&M oil is the right choice, and then if that's not it I am assuming the clutch plates are worn out, I have 12,500 mi on the bike so it wouldn't surprise me if they are, but before I replace them I thought I'd try the oil!:cheers:
Back off on the throttle and this problem will go away, its a cruiser:whoop: not a sport bike. Do I have to send you a PM?:lol:
I run Harley primary oil in mine, change it every year:2thumbs:
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Incorrect, because of the side loading it will only occur in 4th-6th.

when I get on it in 3rd or 4th gear that the clutch slips!:
3- straight cut, right?



See me cover my ass for 3rd as in slips, no nut? Then we use 4th (conical) as it slips in the other gear too... still no nut is the assumption? Plus, where is the lever to cable to slop to push the plates open before the lever hits the grip? So, no lever complaint in every gear. No mention of any other problem until it winds up some rpm to breaking loose of the plates, right?

Not trying to one up anyone here. Just trying to run your abstract against what the OP described up against mine. So we look at it two different ways... Now, WOT say we reread the OP(?)... is all I can go by.

Ah, BW, I'd clean out the carbon, know I have a slipping/nut problem down the road kind of treat it like an oven and clean it once and awhile.
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Mine is doing the same thing - 3rd & 4th, some guys have went to a thicker steel plate as well.

about 1500 miles ago the hub nut was loose I got the new hardened nut just to be sure and reapplied with loctite to 130 ft/lbs. I can't imagine it's loose again but I'll be checking this weekend. only about 8,000 miles on the clutch of pretty easy riding
 

ground pounder

Active Member
Usually its the pressure plate that wears excessively because its aluminum. Baker now has a anodized pressure plate that is not supposed to wear like the other one. Put one in my bike and haven't looked back.
 

cdogg556

Guru
Back off on the throttle and this problem will go away, its a cruiser:whoop: not a sport bike. Do I have to send you a PM?:lol:
I run Harley primary oil in mine, change it every year:2thumbs:
Yes Ker, I know exactly what you are reffering to!:D But sometimes you need to get on it, like entering the freeway, passing a car, etc... you know what I mean don't ya? :2thumbs:
As far as all the other info I guess what I am hearing is change the oil, check the plates and nut, and replace the pressure plate with a anodized one and I should be good to go!:cheers:
 

BWG56

Guru
Yes Ker, I know exactly what you are reffering to!:D But sometimes you need to get on it, like entering the freeway, passing a car, etc... you know what I mean don't ya? :2thumbs:
:nono:I told ya before that I cruise 5-10mph below the speed limit, I stay off of freeways and at my speed everyone is passing me.
I have a Hemi in my truck and it has the MDS (multi displacement system) where it shuts down 4 of the cylinders while cruising, so I tried that with my dog, I removed one of the spark plugs and it bumped my gas mileage to 93 MPG. I don't worry about performance cause I look Kool as shit going down the road.:D:roll::roll:
 

cdogg556

Guru
Do NOT listen to "Hammer & Chisel"!!!! he rides like an old lady! :rolleyes:

Ride Hard or go home! :D :whoop:
:roll::roll::roll:

:nono:I told ya before that I cruise 5-10mph below the speed limit, I stay off of freeways and at my speed everyone is passing me.
I have a Hemi in my truck and it has the MDS (multi displacement system) where it shuts down 4 of the cylinders while cruising, so I tried that with my dog, I removed one of the spark plugs and it bumped my gas mileage to 93 MPG. I don't worry about performance cause I look Kool as shit going down the road.:D:roll::roll:
Your cracking me up Ker!:roll::roll::roll:
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Usually its the pressure plate that wears excessively because its aluminum. Baker now has a anodized pressure plate that is not supposed to wear like the other one. Put one in my bike and haven't looked back.

Finally got the chance to pull my clutch apart and low and behold, it wasn't the clutch hub nut which I fixed 1600 miles ago.

Wore a nice little groove in the clutch plate. Pictures suck, I must have got my phone wet or something pictures all just started coming out blurry a few days ago, sorry but you get the idea. Ordered the new pressure plate and Energy One shipping me a new friction to replace that and a thicker steel plate to bring my clutch back up to spec. Energy One said the pack stack height should be 1.97", mine is floating around 1.955" so we will bring it back to full height as the friction plates are not worn down still looking at .094-.095 for all the plates. :2thumbs:

Kent at Energy One said due to the 12 plate clutch having thin steel plates (0.060) it's likely they will wear down faster than their friction plates. Go Figure, you can slap some thicker Steele plates in there to help bring the pack stack height back up. The 9 plate clutch has the thicker steels, not sure of the exact size. Funny enough when I took my clutch apart I had the large thick Steel plate (.120) in the back where it should be and then 2 out of the remaining steels were already sized up at 0.080 instead of the standard .060, guessing baker put them in to bring it to full spec originally as the bike only had 3k miles on it when I bought it from the original owner I'm probably the first one in there.



 

Jwooky

Well-Known Member
Good deal. You got the hard part done, figuring out the problem. Fixing it is the easy part.
 
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