clutch shim installed

[Sven]

When the bike is off, in gear, and I pull in the clutch I still cannot roll it like other bikes I've had.

It's a slam back, slam forward, and one of those is going to break the clutch free so you can walk it. No low gear. The ratio is off. With dead engine remember, the lever is never touched. So go back and forth and shift to top gear. Now pull the lever in and go back and forth to break the plates loose.

Is it imperative that the bike be "upright" (level) when adjusting the clutch?

No.

I did it with it on the kick stand. Do you adjust the clutch with cold engine temp as I did?

Yes.

Primary chain adjustment effects the clutch adjustment?

I believe that is up for discussion. I think I tried both ways. No clutch wear and a loose pri chain was hard finding N. Since the plates were looking beautiful, I set the pri tighter by hand feel, not book measurements. No complaints so far.

(I can see the finding N part, but actual clutch engagement is kinda baffling to me.)

The engagement is one set of plates remain stationary with the rear wheel. The other plates move with the engine. Let the clutch out, one plate moves into the next [collapse into] and this drag begins to move the rear wheel. First to lock or cause friction are the rears, or the farthest plates from the set screw. Those burnout first.

Clutch never slipped and still does not before and after all this.

.
To see if a clutch is going bad is to see where the collapse begins:
a. Bike moves when lever leaves hand grip = Good to Excellent.
b. Bike moves when the lever is at the middle between grip and perch = Worn.

 

[Mikeinjersey]

Clutch never slipped and still does not before and after all this. I used 32oz HD dino primary fluid when filling the primary. Not sure what the original owner had in it.
Anyone ideas?

[/QUOTE]

For your other questions I like Svens explanations. You didn't ask but Wildsteedworx recommendation on Primary fluid amount is 20oz to 24oz to help prevent starter contamination.

 

[Mr. Wright]

Clutch never slipped and still does not before and after all this. I used 32oz HD dino primary fluid when filling the primary. Not sure what the original owner had in it.
Anyone ideas?

For your other questions I like Svens explanations. You didn't ask but Wildsteedworx recommendation on Primary fluid amount is 20oz to 24oz to help prevent starter contamination.
[/QUOTE]
That's only for 05 and newer RHD, with the thin primary. The older bikes with the Harley primary, use 32 oz

 

[BadCo]

Thank you Sven for the very informative reply!
With adjustment set by the book, engagement starts quite near hand grip. So, I can assume the clutch is "Good to Excellent".

So, I've done everything by the book and have watched Marky Marc videos beforehand. (Thanks Marc! Love the "Don't do like I do" !). I've got one eyebrow up looking at the primary fluid and at the exact same time I got Mike's reply: " For your other questions I like Svens explanations. You didn't ask but Wildsteedworx recommendation on Primary fluid amount is 20oz to 24oz help prevent starter contamination. "

What fluid do you guys find to work best. Or my question would be, has anyone had this issue using HD dino primary fluid?

Thanks mike! 20-24oz?

 

[Mikeinjersey]

For your other questions I like Svens explanations. You didn't ask but Wildsteedworx recommendation on Primary fluid amount is 20oz to 24oz to help prevent starter contamination.

That's only for 05 and newer RHD, with the thin primary. The older bikes with the Harley primary, use 32 oz
[/QUOTE]
Thanks for the clarification/correction .

 

[Mikeinjersey]

Thank you Sven for the very informative reply!
With adjustment set by the book, engagement starts quite near hand grip. So, I can assume the clutch is "Good to Excellent".

So, I've done everything by the book and have watched Marky Marc videos beforehand. (Thanks Marc! Love the "Don't do like I do" !). I've got one eyebrow up looking at the primary fluid and at the exact same time I got Mike's reply: " For your other questions I like Svens explanations. You didn't ask but Wildsteedworx recommendation on Primary fluid amount is 20oz to 24oz help prevent starter contamination. "

What fluid do you guys find to work best. Or my question would be, has anyone had this issue using HD dino primary fluid?

Thanks mike! 20-24oz?

Several opinions on this subject but I use Harley fluid and have not had any issues. I was not aware of what Mr. Wright posted but if your bike is older than 05 I would follow his advise.

 

[BadCo]

It is '05 rhd and guessing this is the "thin" one:

Off topic, I was thinking all this time i had a DT frame. Upon looking at the welds, found where it says Rolling Thunder

 

[Mickmorris]

It is '05 rhd and guessing this is the "thin" one:
View attachment 78953
Off topic, I was thinking all this time i had a DT frame. Upon looking at the welds, found where it says Rolling Thunder

Yep that’s a thin one

 

[Mickmorris]

Thank you Sven for the very informative reply!
With adjustment set by the book, engagement starts quite near hand grip. So, I can assume the clutch is "Good to Excellent".

So, I've done everything by the book and have watched Marky Marc videos beforehand. (Thanks Marc! Love the "Don't do like I do" !). I've got one eyebrow up looking at the primary fluid and at the exact same time I got Mike's reply: " For your other questions I like Svens explanations. You didn't ask but Wildsteedworx recommendation on Primary fluid amount is 20oz to 24oz help prevent starter contamination. "

What fluid do you guys find to work best. Or my question would be, has anyone had this issue using HD dino primary fluid?

Thanks mike! 20-24oz?

I use Lucas Primary oil. Mr. Wright told me there is better, but I missed the recommendation.

 

[BadCo]

Thanks to all. I will try the Lucas @24oz. come spring.

 

[Mr. Wright]

I use Lucas Primary oil. Mr. Wright told me there is better, but I missed the recommendation.

 

[john sachs]

Every primary, and clutch assembly that I get involved with, and there have been a lot of them, I use the least expensive, non-synthetic, ATF type F. trans. fluid. A lot of 150 + h.p. powered bikes, and NEVER had a problem.
John