kiwi
Active Member
i think you are right as it says in rays scanned pages that it is 80lbfts . i was getting scared when i was putting all that torque on the shaft so i stopped and had to do more searches:bang: or are you guys putting 150lbft on it
clutch problem maybe?
- Thread starter kiwi
- Start date
BWG56
Guru
Do you have the bike on its tires or up on a jack? Put it in 2nd or 3rd and with the rear tire on the ground, hold the rear brake down and torque it. If its up on a jack put a rag in between sprocket and chain.
what?
Active Member
not a stupid question at all. I just went throught the same thing. Some of the terminology on the forum could get a bit confusing.
I just went through this on my 2008 pitbull which is right hand drive.
The "clutch hub nut" is inside the primary cover behind the pressure plate. It is a 30mm reverse threaded nut that holds the clutch assembly together and is seated at the end of the push rod. This nut should not wander in and out. It should be stationary and torqued super tight with loctite.
The "clutch adjustment nut" is located on the right side of the bike. There is an 11/16" locknut on top of the 7/32" allen nut. The 7/32" nut allows proper adjustment of the push rod which runs axially throught the the transmission and clutch assembly.
If the "clutch hub nut" located inside the primary is stationary then you can adjust the clutch adjustment nut as described here
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/how/2025-how-adjust-your-clutch.html
I suspect if it is unthreading then constant adjustment of the clutch will eventually be needed. Mine was loose to where i could take it off by hand. This is common, and a lot of the guys on here have been there/done that.
I'd offer up pictures as i took a shitload when i did this. I just don't know how to post them in the forum.
I just went through this on my 2008 pitbull which is right hand drive.
The "clutch hub nut" is inside the primary cover behind the pressure plate. It is a 30mm reverse threaded nut that holds the clutch assembly together and is seated at the end of the push rod. This nut should not wander in and out. It should be stationary and torqued super tight with loctite.
The "clutch adjustment nut" is located on the right side of the bike. There is an 11/16" locknut on top of the 7/32" allen nut. The 7/32" nut allows proper adjustment of the push rod which runs axially throught the the transmission and clutch assembly.
If the "clutch hub nut" located inside the primary is stationary then you can adjust the clutch adjustment nut as described here
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/how/2025-how-adjust-your-clutch.html
I suspect if it is unthreading then constant adjustment of the clutch will eventually be needed. Mine was loose to where i could take it off by hand. This is common, and a lot of the guys on here have been there/done that.
I'd offer up pictures as i took a shitload when i did this. I just don't know how to post them in the forum.
what?
Active Member
drain the the primary oil, remove inspection plate and finally primary bolts.
I've removed them and placed them in a cardboard jig so i know how they go back in. probably not necessary as they are all the same size. the picture does show the tightening sequence which you'll need during final assembly.
with the primary cover off inspect the gears and locate the pressure plate
remove the four bolts holding the pressure plate on.
I've removed them and placed them in a cardboard jig so i know how they go back in. probably not necessary as they are all the same size. the picture does show the tightening sequence which you'll need during final assembly.
with the primary cover off inspect the gears and locate the pressure plate
remove the four bolts holding the pressure plate on.
what?
Active Member
pull the pressure plate off.
when i did this the clutch plates came along for the ride. just be sure they are installed in the same manner
now you have access to the hub nut. remember it is reverse thread. you need a torque wrench and a 30 mm socket. tighten it to about 150 pounds before backing off the nut
once removed, clean up the threads on the shaft and inside the nut itself. you can see the tip of the push rod sticking out the end.
apply the red locktite on the shaft threads and inside the nut and reverse the sequence. tighten the dreaded "hub nut to 100-120 pounds
hope this helps
when i did this the clutch plates came along for the ride. just be sure they are installed in the same manner
now you have access to the hub nut. remember it is reverse thread. you need a torque wrench and a 30 mm socket. tighten it to about 150 pounds before backing off the nut
once removed, clean up the threads on the shaft and inside the nut itself. you can see the tip of the push rod sticking out the end.
apply the red locktite on the shaft threads and inside the nut and reverse the sequence. tighten the dreaded "hub nut to 100-120 pounds
hope this helps
what?
Active Member
forgot one thing....well two things
once this is done, and depending on how loose it was to begin with, everything between the "hub nut" and "clutch adjustment nut" will be pulled together.
In my case the gears would not engage. even with the clutch lever all the way out and the bike in gear. this is where you have to adjust the "clutch adjustment nut" on the right side of the bike. see earlier post.
Oh, and don't forget to put a quart of primary oil in. and make sure your drain plug is in. cheers
once this is done, and depending on how loose it was to begin with, everything between the "hub nut" and "clutch adjustment nut" will be pulled together.
In my case the gears would not engage. even with the clutch lever all the way out and the bike in gear. this is where you have to adjust the "clutch adjustment nut" on the right side of the bike. see earlier post.
Oh, and don't forget to put a quart of primary oil in. and make sure your drain plug is in. cheers
San Diego Dog
Member
I'll almost lay money on it that the nut came loose that holds the clutch on.
Ram-Z
Member
I just want to say thank you to Bill and everyone else for the great information. I have a 2008 Pitbull and it felt like the clutch was slipping at higher RPM’s because you could no longer feel the bike pulling, or maybe I should say it was no longer propelling forward-faster.
So I brought the bike into the shop……followed the directions that everyone provided...to check the lock nut. Sure enough it was a little loose. Then after putting it all back together…..the bike is now running great again!!
You guys are the best!! :2thumbs:
So I brought the bike into the shop……followed the directions that everyone provided...to check the lock nut. Sure enough it was a little loose. Then after putting it all back together…..the bike is now running great again!!
You guys are the best!! :2thumbs:
rodsoriano2000
New Member
trans fluid
My clutch carrier is split in two. When I pulled the carrier, lots of trans fluid came out of the shaft. The bike is on the ground on its stand when I pulled the carrier. visual of the seal looks good. Should I worry and wait and order the seal or put the new bandit clutch in. Thanks in advance.
My clutch carrier is split in two. When I pulled the carrier, lots of trans fluid came out of the shaft. The bike is on the ground on its stand when I pulled the carrier. visual of the seal looks good. Should I worry and wait and order the seal or put the new bandit clutch in. Thanks in advance.
blackdogg6164
Member
Can you possibly send them to my email?