Clutch Pivot Plate Bolt Torque
- Thread starter Fibersnake
- Start date
Fibersnake
Banjo Playing PsychoBilly
On the torque of the bolts for the pivot plate, it is not so much to make sure they do not fall out (thought that is a factor), but since those bolts are not bottoming out, they are used to help set the pressure for the Diaphragm plate. The tighter the bolts are the more pressure on the plate (up to a certain point) where the looser they are, the less pressure there is on the plates. Not sure what the stock pressure if for the diaphragm, but these bolts are a major part of insuring that it is within the design of that pressure.
When the bolts are up to the right range, the diaphragm spring will have a slight dome from the outer edge to the inner edge. This difference will the spec that is talked about when referring to from flat. As an example when I set mine with a torque of 200" lbs. The difference from the outer edge of the diaphragm plate to the inner edge was .032" with the inner edge being higher.
If the bolts ae too loose, the difference would be higher and there would not be as much pressure to the plates, if the difference is too little, the tension will be very high to a certain point and then since the plate is flat, may not allow even pressure as designed.
20' pounds is what is recommended in the 07 SM, 200" pounds i what Baker had for the clutch, I would imagine anywhere between 200-240" pounds (16-20ft pounds) should be good, but do check the actual difference in spring height between outer edge and inner to make sure it is within specs.
I did also confim this with my local shop yesterday.
When the bolts are up to the right range, the diaphragm spring will have a slight dome from the outer edge to the inner edge. This difference will the spec that is talked about when referring to from flat. As an example when I set mine with a torque of 200" lbs. The difference from the outer edge of the diaphragm plate to the inner edge was .032" with the inner edge being higher.
If the bolts ae too loose, the difference would be higher and there would not be as much pressure to the plates, if the difference is too little, the tension will be very high to a certain point and then since the plate is flat, may not allow even pressure as designed.
20' pounds is what is recommended in the 07 SM, 200" pounds i what Baker had for the clutch, I would imagine anywhere between 200-240" pounds (16-20ft pounds) should be good, but do check the actual difference in spring height between outer edge and inner to make sure it is within specs.
I did also confim this with my local shop yesterday.
depth gauge off the end of a set of calipers I'm guessing.
Fibersnake
Banjo Playing PsychoBilly
Close but not quite. Used a depth micrometer first, then mounted a dial indicator and measured again as well while turning the clutch hub to see if it was even (wanted to make sure that it was not bad due to having had to shift without the clutch-hell that was the only reason for getting in my clutch in the first place-Got lucky with no problems found in clutch or tranny-just change of cable).
The dial indicator was a little of an issue to make sure it was level, but made sure it stayed zero at every 90 degrees than measured the outer edge and the inner edge and 4 measurement at 90 degrees were within .002 of each other. The .032" was my nominal.
Probaly much more than needed, but I felt like I was doing something for once and gave me a reason to dust of the measureing tools. My guess is without taking the measurment, if one was to toruqe the 4 bolts to somewhere between 18-20' pounds evenly, it will probably be well with specs without any problems (barring that the pressure plate and cltuch plates are within specs and worn too mcuh).
Will say that it shifted better than it has in a while, but that may just due to cleanin it up and/or the ATF that I put in.
Speaking of the ATF, it seems to work fine and I saw that many clutch makers speak of it including Baker, however can not get a consensus to if good bad or indifferent. My gut is to change it back to the old RevTech since I know it works well and will not create a problem.
I guess sometime I should get out the camera and re-read all the good DIY post from GasMan and do the same next time I tear into something that he may not have already put the pics too.
Experimenting is good, but sometimes it is best to stick with a well known.
Fibersnake
Banjo Playing PsychoBilly
BWG56
Guru
Fiber, I had a chance today to pull the primary cover again to check the clutch nut and sure enough it was loose. Should've figured that because when I pulled the clutch lever in I could see the primary chain move up and down. So loctite and 80ft/lbs on the nut and no more movement when pulling the clutch lever. Had to readjust the primary chain and the clutch cable. Torqued the clutch pivot bolts to 20ft/lbs and it actually felt like the bolts bottomed on something.
By the way my 07 has 15 plates.
Took it out for a short ride and I can once again find neutral when stopped and it don't feel like the clutch is engaged when stopped in gear.
By the way my 07 has 15 plates.
Took it out for a short ride and I can once again find neutral when stopped and it don't feel like the clutch is engaged when stopped in gear.
05chop
Well-Known Member
If the bolts are tite there tite makes no difference.If the spring is not up to snuff then you have a problem.I f this were me bandit would of been my choice.From what i have seen fiber you cant go wrong.
Fibersnake
Banjo Playing PsychoBilly
Do not use them too often anymore myself, but at one time they and my micrometer where like third hands. The Dial indicators for getting the depths are a PITA due to make sure that they are lined up and stay so, but for checking for flex or out of roundness, one works very good. The depth micrometer work best for checking the dome height or as some have tried the depth on the end of a good caliper.
Keep in mind thought that I was doing more than the norm due to trying to make sure I didn't screw up anything from where I rode with out clutch.
Everyone have a good safe and enjoyable Labor Day weekend.
RRRUFF
Well-Known Member
Ok, finally got around to pulling my primary cover and checked the clutch and sprocket nuts. The clutch was not loose and showed no sign of any loctite. The drive sprocket showed evidence of loctite. Applied loctite to both nuts and re-torqued both, drive sprocket 160 ft.lb. and clutch nut to 100 ft.lbs. The four pivot plate bolts show signs of loctite. When I re-torqued them 200 in.lbs. they shoulder/bottomed out. This was also true on my buddies 06 K9 that we check this weekend. We also noticed his drive belt was excessively loose and found the tensioning screw broke on the drive side.