Clutch pack help-it fell out.......

[Marky-Marc]

So I went to check my clutch hub nut today because I'm starting to get a vibration (more of a massage at higher RPMS-but goes away when coasting with clutch pulled in)...followed all the how to's the best I could, all looked good, no metal shearings, no rub marks anywhere, clutch actually looks brand new...clutch hub nut was on past 90 ft/lbs so I think I"m good, all the other nuts were good as well.....

But, just to be safe, here's what happened and it seemed odd to me.

Took the 4 bolts holding the pivot plate on off and lo and behold the diaphragm spring and pressure plate just slid out along with some of the clutch pack plates????

I put the clutch pack plates back with spacers the way I THINK it should go (the way it came out as I watched in HORROR), question is, is there a specific PLACE they need to go on top of each other after the spacers in between them, as in lined up, or as long as they are in the slots with spacers correctly in the right order it's okay?? torqued pivot plate bolts back to 20 ft/lbs as per manual and I shifted through gears (engine off), looks and FEELS okay when spinning rear wheel, but want to make SURE before i reassemble everything...

Also, is it supposed to just come apart/slide out like that after the pivot plate bolts are off?

Any speedy help would be appreciated....

Thanks...

 

[pknowles]

You need a manual. There's some on hear in a pdf

 

[Marky-Marc]

Thanks. Have the manual. It doesn't mention anything about how the plates go in...just shows a black and white picture of the plates on top of page 9-8 (2008 service manual)...always mentions taking clutch pack out assembled to check it...I think I'm okay, just wanted to check first.....see if this has happened to anyone else and if I did it correctly...

 

[Marky-Marc]

I'm definitely not okay...seems it goes into gear but has complete slippage and no pull...any help would be appreciated...

 

[Little-Boo]

Take out the clutch pack and reinstall it make sure the first one is a steel plate followed by a friction plate, and do that same order all the way. Your last one should be a friction plate, followed by the pressure plate, next the seat diaphragm spring, next the clutch diaphragm and then the clutch pivot spring. Don't forget your throw out bearing.

Having taken the clutch pack out you need to adjust your clutch. Loosen the clutch cable adjustment screw at the down tube (right side) and make sure you don't pull the clutch lever until you are done. Remove the clutch adjustment cover at the pulley assembly cover hold the clutch pushrod with an 7/32 Allen wrench and loosen the clutch pushrod jam nut enough to be able to move or adjust the pushrod. Turn the pushrod in all the way till it stops (by hand) and back it off 1/4 turn with the 7/32 Allen Wrench. Hold the Rod in place with the Allen wrench and lock it down with the Jam Nut.

Now go back and adjust the lever, don't pull it yet just adjust it at the down tube till it looks close to being about 1/16 free play at the clutch lever. You can pull it now and see if you have clutch. If you don't then your ball and ramp is out of place. Post again and we can get that figured out :bang:

One step at a time.

Hope that helps

Carlos

 

[Marky-Marc]

Take out the clutch pack and reinstall it make sure the first one is a steel plate followed by a friction plate, and do that same order all the way. Your last one should be a friction plate, followed by the pressure plate, next the seat diaphragm spring, next the clutch diaphragm and then the clutch pivot spring. Don't forget your throw out bearing.

Having taken the clutch pack out you need to adjust your clutch. Loosen the clutch cable adjustment screw at the down tube (right side) and make sure you don't pull the clutch lever until you are done. Remove the clutch adjustment cover at the pulley assembly cover hold the clutch pushrod with an 7/32 Allen wrench and loosen the clutch pushrod jam nut enough to be able to move or adjust the pushrod. Turn the pushrod in all the way till it stops (by hand) and back it off 1/4 turn with the 7/32 Allen Wrench. Hold the Rod in place with the Allen wrench and lock it down with the Jam Nut.

Now go back and adjust the lever, don't pull it yet just adjust it at the down tube till it looks close to being about 1/16 free play at the clutch lever. You can pull it now and see if you have clutch. If you don't then your ball and ramp is out of place. Post again and we can get that figured out :bang:

One step at a time.

Hope that helps

Carlos

thanks, just got off the phone with boomer44.....said the same thing...by turning my clutch hub nut probably a 1/4 to 1/2 turn by myself to get it to 90+ ft/lbs, I screwed the adjustment up...DOOOH.....so, I'm putting it back together now, leaving primary cover off, and then tomorrow will loosen clutch, see if I can get the hub nut on a little tighter, then adjust the clutch...thanks guys...brain was just in reverse.....

Will post back if I put my brain in reverse again, or if there are any more issues....

 

[BWG56]

If your clutch hub nut was loose, you should remove it and clean the nut and threads before applying red loctite, then torque it. If you don't, you'll be doing this again. I would also check the top motor mount for a cause of vibration also. I would tighten the clutch nut to at least 120ft/lbs.

 

[woodbutcher]

if you were able to turn the clutch hub nut, you have broken the integrity of the loctite that is on the shaft. you should remove the hub nut, clean it and the shaft, and re-install in the proper order as shown in other write-ups here on the forum. otherwise, you will probably end up with the nut backing off in the near future.


damn, Ker, you beat me too it. great minds think alike.

 

[kickstart]

Every nut and bolt that requires LocTite on these scoots should be treated the same way. I use a tap, die and a wire brush to remove the old LocTite and clean with Lacquer Thinner and then reapply the LocTite and torque to specs.

 

[Marky-Marc]

I want to thank everyone who helped and this site. Especially Boos and Boomer....bike is running iike a champ, no creeping and/or slippage and the primary isn't leaking put together..... Will probably have to check/adjust the clutch in a couple hundred miles again...but it seems great first time out. I did things a little differently than what Boo said above, BUT ONLY BECAUSE MY PRIMARY COVER WAS OFF! and since I had Boomer44 on the phone, I used his way, and it worked first time out.

THIS METHOD ONLY WORKS IF YOU HAVE THE PRIMARY COVER OFF AND CAN SEE THE BEARING! I followed all the steps outlined above, except when it came to 'setting' the pushrod, I unscrewed it a bit, then hand screwed it in slowly while watching the bearing, as soon as the bearing moved a hair, I stopped, backed it off 1/4 turn and cranked it down. This ONLY works if you have the primary cover off and can see the bearing, otherwise, Boo's steps are dead on!

So far, last 20 miles, all is good-again, no slippage or creeping, even when I get on the throttle in 3rd or fourth gear...and at the lights in gear, no creepage...

Wanted to check my clutch hub nut anyways, but found my vibration.....it seems it WAS my center engine mount bolt...must've lost it since I last checked it. I looked around the site for size and even in the manual for it, seems they are NOT entirely correct-and a bunch of different sizes listed. The size for all 3 engine mount bolts on the camel toe on a 2005 Ridgeback are 3/8" X 16 X 1". I however, put in 1 1/2" long with lock washers and blue loctite and did the other 2 that were tight while I was there as well.

Thanks again guys/gals.....happy riding.....:2thumbs:


M.

 

[woodbutcher]

if you find you are having to repeatedly adjust the clutch, pull the primary and re-do the clutch hub nut the full route.

 

[Marky-Marc]

I did re-do it as recommended last night at 1AM, removed it, cleaned everything and used locktight to put it back on, but with my 160lbs, best I could get it to by myself was around 100 foot pounds torque.....hope that holds...otherwise will re-do it this winter.....

 

[Brew]

I usually use an impact gun on that nut. Haven't had one loosen up yet... :2thumbs:

 

[boomer4444]

glad we could help!! this site has been a great asset to the big dog brotherhood, as these bikes age and are sold to new owners they will always need maintenence and repairs and this is the first site everyone should check first, there is more knowledge here with the forum members then any book or repair shop,,thanks to all who have made this forum what it is!!

 

[Little-Boo]

Glad your on the road again :2thumbs:

Carlos