Clutch hub nut

[Joseph]

Just now recovering from surgery not bike related but before I went under I went on a poker run... about 40-50 miles but only made it 25 before I had to start tightening my cable more and more before what the fk is going on here?!?!!

Tow back to my house and bike has been sitting due to my surgery. Many posts read and this is what I have:

Most likely a loose clutch hub nut.

Now steps/pictures/diagrams are where I am lost at. There are a few posts here but pictures outdated or hidden or missing but I would truly appreciate a helping hand. Read about red loctite 200 lbs... 150 lbs... 120lbs... newer hardened nut... throw away o-ring....

I can decipher the above but what I am truly missing is a step by step and either a diagram or picture walkthrough as I am comfortable working on my steed just not familiar with where this nut is as well as the process and any other parts I may need to loosen before I tighten this. I hope this makes sense and truly appreciate an assist.

I really need to get back on the road and this is my only stop right now. Thanks in advance for reading and the followup.

Joseph
2007 K9

 

[BWG56]

Behind that cover you'll see 4 hex head bolts heads remove those and the pressure plate and you will see the clutch hub nut in behind the throwout bearing be careful that all your clutch discs don't come sliding out because it would be sitting on the kickstand . You should get the new hard nut and washer from Baker clean up the threads real good on the transmission shaft and load up the nut and thread with red Loctite take it to 150 foot pounds of torque let it set up and dry you're good to go

 

[Th3InfamousI]

Behind that cover you'll see 4 hex head bolts heads remove those and the pressure plate and you will see the clutch hub nut in behind the throwout bearing be careful that all your clutch discs don't come sliding out because it would be sitting on the kickstand . You should get the new hard nut and washer from S&S clean up the threads real good on the transmission shaft and load up the nut and thread with red Loctite take it to 150 foot pounds of torque let it set up and dry you're good to go

Baker not S&S.

New nut and washer. And you will need a primary locking tool to make your job easy on torquing to 150.
Harley Davidson Primary Drive Locking Tool for Motor Sprocket and Clutch Hub Nut https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0186BX1JQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PTJBzbM2D5PM8




Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk

 

[heybaylor]

Or just grab a piece of 1/4 by 2 flat bar and cut it to length to fit between the 2 sprockets and you re all set. I wrapped mine in tape just for the hell of it.

I use the wooden rungs off a old chair ( cut to fit )

 

[Lorenzo]

Anyone who lets someone else work on their dogs clutches, especially Harley mechanics, Harley clutch hubs are torqued to 80ft lbs so they use Harley's torque specs a lot when working on our dogs. I've seen that more than once when I'm working on someone's big Dog, the nuts come loose and they lose the clutch. Same goes for a lot of fasteners on our dogs. JMO

 

[BWG56]

Baker not S&S.
Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk

My bad I should stick to entries on my computer instead of my phone, easier to type than Tapascrewitup

 

[bohussound]

Just one more thing. That nut that holds the clutch basket is threaded in the opposite direction. So to tighten it you need to turn anticlockwise.

 

[Big Daddy 72]

Happened to my Mastiff right after I got it, very simple fix. Just take your time and pay attention to the clutch rod adj. and use approved primary fluid. There are several threads here on how to adjust the clutch rod. The new primary gasket is a little tricky to get on if your using a new one, I had to on mine. Never had any issues since.

 

[BWG56]

I reused the primary gasket many times before I replaced it. For the new one to take shape I cleaned the primary really good and used masking tape to hold it in place over night so it takes the shape before installing the primary cover back on.

 

[cdogg556]

The info here is freak'n priceless! You guys are awesome! Without this site I don't know if I could have kept my bike going, this is what makes BDB freak'n awesome! All of you!

 

[bdm7250]

The info here is freak'n priceless! You guys are awesome! Without this site I don't know if I could have kept my bike going, this is what makes BDB freak'n awesome! All of you!

 

[PROFLYER]

wildsteedworx.com get with Curtis @KaptinAmerika and get the new seals for the primary and the inspection cover. They're square seals now, not round like an o-ring and seal a LOT better. He should also have the new nut if yours is looking worn.

You really need a 1/2" impact for that nut and yes it's LEFTY TIGHTY and RIGHTY LOOSEY so make sure you're not cranking that thing counter-clockwise trying to get it off. Best way, as said, is to put a good bit of RED loctite on the threads, put it down to torque and then let it sit overnight before refilling it with primary oil so it hardens. I just did the transmission seal (which by the way, you might as well do it while you're in there) on mine. I used an electric impact I got at harbor freight years ago--works great.

 

[Matheny 514]

The info here is freak'n priceless! You guys are awesome! Without this site I don't know if I could have kept my bike going, this is what makes BDB freak'n awesome! All of you!

X2