So a few weeks ago I had the main shaft bearing on my transmission go out... I had to ride the bike another 30 miles maybe.... as I was riding I could tell the clutch was starting to go... (just replaced the clutch plates this spring) so.. after fixing the bike.. I barley have a clutch left! I have everything adjusted as far as I can...and have double checked that everything is put back together correctly... My question is.. what would have caused this to happen so fast!? sure the trans fluid and primary fluid mixed.. but I wouldn't think that would eat a brand new clutch up!
Clutch going out after main shaft bearing on trans?
- Thread starter Guitar309
- Start date
Bobby Schulz
Active Member
If the bearings in the trans are bad the clutch can slip... mostly in 4th gear is where you will notice it. You can mask some of the problems by using a better clutch but in the end its often a bearing problem.
Make sure that you have adjusted the clutch on the side cover and the cable. I have seen that if you were running synthetic fluid in the trans and it got into the primary it can cause it to slip in some bikes.
When it was being put back together how did the frictions/steels on the clutch look??? Did the frictions look burned or the steels blued???
Make sure that you have adjusted the clutch on the side cover and the cable. I have seen that if you were running synthetic fluid in the trans and it got into the primary it can cause it to slip in some bikes.
When it was being put back together how did the frictions/steels on the clutch look??? Did the frictions look burned or the steels blued???
no.. thats the thing... plates look fine... replaced all the bearings.... and the clutch isn't slipping.... its more of an adjustment problem.. I have the "rod" on the right side adjusted in as close as I can... and then took all of the play out of the cable.. and the bike still wants to creep ... the clutch doesn't engage until you have the lever almost all of the way in..
Bobby Schulz
Active Member
Try turning the "rod" 1/4 turn to the left and locking it down. Then adjust the cable.
and then I would have no clutch? I turn the "rod" until you feel it hit and then back it off a quarter turn.. and tighten it down.. then adjust the clutch cable until the clutch lever is tight.. and it still creeps when the clutch is in... I have tried adjusting the "rod" as close as I can without touching.. it acts like the clutch is bad.. and that's what it started doing as soon as the bearing went out..
bigdogtech01
Well-Known Member
Who rebuilt your transmission? What year is your bike? Bad bearings will not wear the clutch plates out. A loose clutch hub nut will. Make sure everything is tight. Who did the clutch work? You torque it to spec using RED locktite?You might need to shim the clutch spring. WHat is your dome height on the spring? A little more info will go a long ways. Thanks.
A friend of mine has a shop locally.. has always done great work... I wouldn't think the bearing going out would have anything to do with the clutch... but ... when the bearing started making noise I was 20 miles from home... as I pulled in the drive.. I noticed it was hard to get into neutral... a few days later I started it up to drive it around the block to see what the noise was... and noticed the bike was creeping and didn't have much clutch... a few days after that.. I rode it to the shop and had everything fixed.. and when we went back to reset the clutch.. I couldn't get the pushrod close enough to get the bike not to creep..... I will take it apart tomorrow and take a look... and check the dome height
bigdogtech01
Well-Known Member
It sounds like your clutch hub nut backed off if you are not able to get the pushrod set. Not saying your friend does not know what he is doing, but the BDM's are different than a lot of other American made bikes.
Let us know what you find.
