Clutch Diaphragm Spring Options...

Trying to figure out whether or not to go with the Baker or Barnett HD Clutch Diaphragm spring or order a new stock one after reading this post from last year:

http://www.bigdogbiker.com/threads/clutch-rework.61404/

08 K9
585 Cam
Unlocked ECU and Map
V&H 2-2
New Baker Hard Anodized Pressure Plate and Nut
Cleaned Injectors

Originally the clutch adjustment was all whacked out, couldn't find neutral, constantly adjusting, finally found out the Nut was backing off, ordered the new Baker hard ano'ed nut and pressure plate, mic'ed each pressure plate and they were all .120 each, mic'ed the fiber stack together and those were .865..

Called and spoke with Energy One, he says the stack is good and to get the HD Diaphragm Spring, then I came across the thread above..

Clutch slips in 3rd and up under heavy acceleration, tach races into the yellow almost immediately when you twist it fast, you can roll into it without issue, but those times you wanna ride it like you stole it, it slips..

Is anyone else running a HD Clutch Spring? I know there's others that are laying down way more HP/TQ than I am...
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
I have no issues with the stock spring.

Seems like the consensus is heavy duty works but more effort to pull the trigger. So it's a matter of preference. I don't jam through the gears on a regular basis so the stock one works fine no slippage.

That article you referenced he said he sees flex on the actuator side that just can't be good long term.

Energy one knows what they are talking about in theory I bet the HD diaphragm spring is the best option, but is it necessary? Not for my riding style at least.

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

Sven

Well-Known Member
The dia acts as a spring. Concave in movement, the spring goes weak = The clutch slips.
The dia needs to be flat as a pancake That's where you stack steels together so the concave goes flat.
The dia being flat now catches N like butter, no ankle brace, no roll to N, no loud clunk into 1st.
That's the trick... ask me how I know?
 

chubs

Guru
The dia acts as a spring. Concave in movement, the spring goes weak = The clutch slips.
The dia needs to be flat as a pancake That's where you stack steels together so the concave goes flat.
The dia being flat now catches N like butter, no ankle brace, no roll to N, no loud clunk into 1st.
That's the trick... ask me how I know?
Hey Sven, how do you know?:oldconfused::hi:
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
I used to work on Harleys at the dealer level. So to repair a nagging chase for N, the trick was to flatten the wave spring. Next is to know there are no warped steels or frictions to cause drag touching each other so the trans never has that drag at the dogs inside the slots.
 

chubs

Guru
I used to work on Harleys at the dealer level. So to repair a nagging chase for N, the trick was to flatten the wave spring. Next is to know there are no warped steels or frictions to cause drag touching each other so the trans never has that drag at the dogs inside the slots.
Cool!
 
Thanks Guys...

My neutral issue was the nagging loose nut, one that got fixed, which I also did the Pressure Plate at the same time, Neutral is butter...

But when youre getting on the freeway, or cruising in 5/6th and roll on too hard, the tach shoots into the yellow... Decisions Decisions...LOL

Thanks again for the input.. Ill call Curtis or Baker and get one of them ordered...
 
Ended up putting the Baker HD Spring in it, no more slippage, the pull is a little harder, but not bad, you can barely see the ball ramp cover flexing when you engage the clutch, so I dont know if the link above had it adjust wrong or what... Did the normal adjust, clutch cable slacked, backed the pushrod nut off, adjusted the push rod till it started to get tight, backed it off 1/4 turn, tighten nut, adjusted clutch cable slack, and all good!!
 
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