I believe you have a stripped adjust allen screw and threaded plate the allen screws into. Replace both as a set. Way too much nut tightening. What happens is you run the nut up, tighten it so gorilla tight, you more or less pull the allen screw [threads] out of the hole of the plate; and bend both threads doing it. You now 'follow a new thread path' once you turn the allen [in either direction]. It almost seizes the threads onto themselves it's that hard to turn. You should be able to finger spin the allen screw with the allen wrench. Is this possible to spin by hand? No. Then replace both parts.
Note: I would imagine [down the road] having that much thread damage, the weak walls sheered off like east germany, it might give up the ghost... one pull at a time.
Popping out of gear says the trans gears might still be spinning and there is your grind/pop-out factor. For the basket plates to break loose from one another, [there is so much throw] factored-in designing the ramp to break the plates fully. And when having the threads bind, the feed of the screw 'moving deeper in' is a bigger factor. As the new bent threads begin to turn in, it might not go deep enough in but bind to a stop. For argument sake; this wide gap between the allen screw end and the rod tip end, you took up half the ramp to close the gap first. Then, the rod pushes the other half of the ramp throw at the pressure plate... ain't gonna break the plates loose = gear grind.
And if you first put it in gear then start it up, I'd have the front tire braced against the wall stud, tap the starter and if the tire breaks thru the drywall, you missed the stud by 8 inches.
Make sense for this scenario? Would another video work for you for the 1/4 out and the perch gap? I have a harley on the rack needing a new clutch lever replacement.
Note: I would imagine [down the road] having that much thread damage, the weak walls sheered off like east germany, it might give up the ghost... one pull at a time.
Popping out of gear says the trans gears might still be spinning and there is your grind/pop-out factor. For the basket plates to break loose from one another, [there is so much throw] factored-in designing the ramp to break the plates fully. And when having the threads bind, the feed of the screw 'moving deeper in' is a bigger factor. As the new bent threads begin to turn in, it might not go deep enough in but bind to a stop. For argument sake; this wide gap between the allen screw end and the rod tip end, you took up half the ramp to close the gap first. Then, the rod pushes the other half of the ramp throw at the pressure plate... ain't gonna break the plates loose = gear grind.
And if you first put it in gear then start it up, I'd have the front tire braced against the wall stud, tap the starter and if the tire breaks thru the drywall, you missed the stud by 8 inches.
Make sense for this scenario? Would another video work for you for the 1/4 out and the perch gap? I have a harley on the rack needing a new clutch lever replacement.
