Clutch basket removal help

[kmalysa]

I need some help. I need to remove my clutch basket, chain and drive sprocket so I can remove my inner primary cover to replace 'o' rings (due to oil leak).

My manual shows a Clutch Hub nut and washer holding the clutch basket in place. However if you look at the photos attached, I have no such nut and washer and no threaded place that one would go????

I bought the bike used, is this an after market clutch pack? If so I need to identify it and get removal instructions. I want to remove as one assembly. This is an '05 117CI with Baker 6speed RHD

 

[Moespeeds]

That's the stock clutch. Remove that larger C-clip and you'll be able to get to the hub nut.

 

[kmalysa]

thanks for the fast reply, I got confused looking at the exploded parts view in the manual.
Thank,
Ken

 

[Moespeeds]

I'm going from memory so if that don't work pull the small clip. Either way you gotta get that bearing outa there.

 

[kmalysa]

Nope you (and my wife) were right! LOL. It's just that the exploded view appeared to show the Nut and washer as the outermost parts.

Admitting that my wife even thought the nut was behind the throw out bearing shows how far I have come in my 52 years LOL

PS... have another question. I need to buy the two sockets to remove the Clutch assembly and drive sproket. Would you recommend impack sockets or regulal 1/2" drive sockets? 150ft pounds sounds like I would need to use my impact driver to remove and re-torque?

 

[Ratman]

Impact.

 

[Brew]

I used an impact gun to remove the clutch nut but used a big azz breaker bar to break the torque on the drive sprocket. I would suggest you use a heat gun and heat the nuts up prior to breaking the torque. It'll help with removal. Don't forget the clutch nut is left handed threads, so righty is loosy...:2thumbs:

 

[Little-Boo]

I used an impact gun to remove the clutch nut but used a big azz breaker bar to break the torque on the drive sprocket. I would suggest you use a heat gun and heat the nuts up prior to breaking the torque. It'll help with removal. Don't forget the clutch nut is left handed threads, so righty is loosy...:2thumbs:

Yup Yup that is the way to do it. :2thumbs:

I use regular Craftsman sockets and can hold up 235 or better pounds of Torque. Don't have go out of your way to get impact sockets. Good Luck

Carlos

 

[nthery520]

I am in the same process and the 1 5/16 socket wont fit around nut. Wall thickness is too much and it isnt even an impact socket. You guys using a specialty socket ?

 

[Moespeeds]

You try a 12 point? I use an impact to get them off, with the bike in neutral. To get it back on, set the wheel against something solid like a block wall of the wheelof your car, put it in gear, and crank that thing on with the torque wrench. Make sure you use loctite.

 

[nthery520]

Seen a brand online at autozone that says it has thinner walls. This socket is K Tool. I will try look at 12 point also. Im trying to get inner primary cover off to reach the one motor mount bolt that i cant really get too. No room underneath to get to the nut.

 

[Moespeeds]

You need a crows foot for that engine mount bolt.

 

[Bobby Schulz]

While you are in there check that you dont have any play in the input shaft. Sometimes you will get a leak betweenthe trans/primary due to the shaft moving too much for the seal to hold.

 

[nthery520]

Crows Foot it shall be. Glad I didnt get any farther than i did. Many thanks to Moespeeds. There was enough slack in chain to slid the front sprocket off so clutch can just stay on.....:2thumbs: