clogged stator?

[Coolbreezin]

This is going to sound really dumb. Due to various reasons, the primary and tranny fluids havent been changed as often as should be. Is it possible that the primary fluid has "gunked up" the stator causing it not to charge or make a connection? When I take my bike off the tender, its about 12.7v and she fires right up. As I travel about and have to start my bike at each place I stop, I often end up having to jump it. By the time I get home my little voltmeter reads 12.1v. Ive also found that if the battery gets below 12.4v, it wont start the bike.

Your thoughts?

 

[KaptinAmerika]

Test the stator and the VR first then replace the battery if necessary.

 

[BadDawg Bill]

As Curtis said check your regulator first. If it's good then:

Take of your primary. Replace all the seals. Have your stator checked and cleaned. If it's weak or bad replace it with a 32 amp one. Problem fixed... Oil in the stator will stop it from charging ask me how I know. That's why I always buy a open belt drive..

 

[BWG56]

You need to start paying more attention to your Dog, regarding oil changes. A well groomed Dog is a happy Dog

 

[francoblay1]

You need to start paying more attention to your Dog, regarding oil changes. A well groomed Dog is a happy Dog

:iagree:

 

[Guillaume]

:2thumbs: keep your dog healty, can let him out every hour off the day with no complains from him .

 

[05chop]

Yes big magnet in there picks up metal

 

[Coolbreezin]

Two questions:

1) which wire connects to the battery that would carry the charge to the battery?

2) Is it possible the power cable from the battery to the solenoid could wear away with use? Ive had the bike 10 years now. Would changing the red cable benefit me and would a larger cable (move more juice to the solenoid) benefit me?

 

[Sven]

1) which wire connects to the battery that would carry the charge to the battery? A vo/reg has a plug that captures AC or both waves [4 total] out of those 2 wires from the stator. The one thick wire out of the v/reg; goes to a fuse and that is the DC conversion wire. So basically looking at a v/reg box, dual wires in from the stator is AC, and a single [heavy] wire out of the v/reg is DC and is fused to the battery (+) side.

2) a. Is it possible the power cable from the battery to the solenoid could wear away with use? No. Think about it. If it glowed red, a brittle sound appears as you push the cable, then yes. 10 years worth of one second or two at the starter motor has to have that wire hot to the touch. But if still supple and no noise moving the plastic, then not enough heat to cause the molecules to change that drastic of a cable change. If say a burnt up resistor or diode on a motherboard is [the same as] a starter cable glowing red, the copper color has changed? If it got that hot, then yes, I would look at that heat as say a burnt out diode. Then you think again: edison or at&t do not tear up the road or climb poles every 10 years to change wires, why are you?

b. 'More juice' with a larger cable. I think there is this balance between current needed and wire size matching? So if I have that formula, all I am doing is wasting energy out the battery? I need more energy to cover more cable surface. So either the power out the battery is minimal or I see there is still more surface to fill if a molecule has to bump on each other, there is just more bump cooling off what the original cable has on reserve for anyway, right?

Signed,

Make sense?

 

[bdthunder]

Yep not taking care of your dog will certainly take a toll on her.:cursin: The picture BWG posted is what i found when i opened up the 01 Boxer i had just bought. don't know how long it had went with out an oil change.:bang: So now i am in the process of installing a new 32 amp charging system from WSW. :flag:Thanks to KaptinAmerika for his patience with a novice vet!!! :flag: I have upgraded the started to a 2.0 kw. Changed all the battery cables! Next will be a through cleaning and polishing.

 

[Coolbreezin]

I just pressed my slam button to turn my motor over a few times. The positive side of the battery got hot, enough to burn to the touch. Everything is tight. I wonder if a dirty (soot) solenoid would cause this. Any ideas?

 

[Coolbreezin]

Update:
A friends HD had starting issues also. Not the same as mine though. I decided to remove my Battery Tender pigtail as he did his. I cleaned the posts and cable connections and she fired right up. I wonder what the pigtail has to do with this?

Anyone else have a pigtail related issue?

 

[Coolbreezin]

I was going through a battery once a year. My start button died, so I got a slam button. I read on here to wire the C/R's to the bolt on the solenoid, so I did. I ran a ground to the battery post and she fired up. As time went by, the engine would struggle to get past the initial revolution, then it would spin and start (C/R's worked then & now). More time passed and it kept leaving me stranded, so my wife bought me a jumpstart kit. Used that for a while until I could get it to Jeff. He determined today that the ground wire should not be attached to the battery and as short as possible. He also found that the green wire on the side of the solenoid wasnt necessary to start the bike. Jeff says the draw on the battery because of my ground wiring and the green wire caused the V/R to stay wide open (so to speak) and flood the battery with juice it didnt need. So I ended up cooking my battery. Jeff said my charging system is fine, just my ground wiring for the C/R's and the green wire on the solenoid. Hope all this helped. So I get a new battery and negative cable.

 

[Deathstar88]

my slam button is somtimes hard to push, and ' stuck ' at times. sometoems i have to use a hammer to gently ' slam ' it to get ot moving again.

 

[kickstart]

I have had the tender pigtail on bikes for many years without any issues maybe yours has an internal short of some kind or the way you had it installed was a bad connection. Did you have the cover on the plug?

Update:
A friends HD had starting issues also. Not the same as mine though. I decided to remove my Battery Tender pigtail as he did his. I cleaned the posts and cable connections and she fired right up. I wonder what the pigtail has to do with this?

Anyone else have a pigtail related issue?

 

[Coolbreezin]

Deathstar, maybe the rubber grommet is sticking to the metal shaft of the button. If youve been in inclimate weather, than maybe a quick of some juice might help to resolve the issue. If not, pull the plate of and look inside.

Kickstart, This is actually my second pigtail I had on the same battery (replaced old one with this last one). I think what Jeff was saying yesterday about my having the C/R's grounded to the battery and the green wire still on the solenoid just slowly led to the death of my battery.

 

[BadDawg Bill]

Not to sound stupid but what in the hell is C\R's?

 

[Coolbreezin]

Not a dumb question. I wondered too, but kept reading until I figured it out. lol

They are the compression releases on top of yr engine.

 

[Sven]

C/R = Compression Release (electric).

1. Ohm dial to 20v.
2. My pigtail is hooked to the battery.
3. My neg probe goes to ground on the engine.
4. My pos probe goes to the neg pigtail = No volts my pig is not bleeding off of the posi side of the harness.
You could have left the piggy on but guess what?
5. My pigtail is off the bike.
6. My ohm meter is set to infinity.
7. My neg probe is in the neg piggy.
8. My pos probe is in the pos piggy side - pick.
9. My pigtail does not bleed to the other wire = battery pigtail good.
10. Me cleaning the battery posts made a new connection.
11. My finding out that little grounding snaffoo cleaning connections was the only thing I did = Starts right up, not starts looking for the shortest path is go right back to ground as in cook the cable back into the battery.
12. My, my... Someone says current leaves on the posi side and most EE's agree it's from the neg side out so did not the ground cable cook? Poor ground leaving the battery was that removal of the piggy, therefore...
13. I'm taking one fat guess at the variable in front of me. Now, go see if that harness bleeds and if it does, parasitic draw was it and not a bad ground.

See that either/or?

 

[Coolbreezin]

Had my charging system checked recently. Bought a new HD battery. Charging system still not working right. The mech says VR is dying. Id like to replace it with a black one. Not a BDM. Do Harley VR's work on a BDM charging system? Or is there another manufacturer yall can direct me towards?