Clear Coat Patch for Suction Cup Marks?

[Olde Man]

Does anyone know of a clear coat paint in a can that could be used on a rear fender to patch the small voids left by the suction cups. I am aware of 1600 paper and finesse etc. I am reluctant to remove more clear to make it look good without replacing the removed clear to protect the paint underneath. I can sand and buff the finished product to achieve the desired final finish. I really don't want to disassemble the fender and create a whole bag of worms as in rub marks from the fender supports etc.

 

[BWG56]

You should be able to go to a NAPA store or another store that sells automotive paint, you can by clear coat in a small spray can, or online. Google "clear coat spray"

 

[FrankBDPS]

John, here is how it has been explained to me when I damaged the clear coat on my tank. Clear coat is a plastic product. It can be moved and flattened out by using a buffer and the correct compound. It takes the heat generated in the buffing process to do that. I took mine to a body shop and he buffed out some pretty bad belt buckle marks and you could not tell it. If you're clear coat is still there have someone buff it before you apply new clear coat.

Good luck

 

[Jwooky]

Agree.

You would have to sand it to re-clear anyway. Try sand (if needed) then buff. Do the least aggressive as possible. If you break through then re clear.

 

[badyellowvette]

If you spray clear coat you have to spray the whole thing, the entire fender. If you leave an edge where the new clear stops on the old clear there will always be a problem in that area.

 

[Sven]

What Frank said. A body man was explaining the same thing is, 'I bear down so it heats and melts the scratch marks out.' I don't think sanding is a good idea if it's taking that thin clear material off. So swirl it hot and it kind of stays there melted instead is some on the pad and whatever percentage, it's way less than sanding.

 

[airbrush-ed]

Nope nope nope. Guys, when you buff/compound on paint, it will warm up a bit. And that's good. But too much pressure, and too much heat will damage the clear. I've seen guys rip holes in clear from running the buffer too fast, or too much pressure. Or it will appear ok, but the clear has lost adhesion underneath. And it will eventually delaminate later.
Also stated above, you have to reclear the entire panel. There's no way around this. And considering how small the fender is, what's the issue? Reclearing a whole bedside to fix a small spot sucks. This is easy. And don't listen to anyone tell you, you can "burn in" the clear.
If you want a quick fix, you can apply some of that 3M clear bra vinyl to the area under the seat.