Check your oil

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bigdogtech01

Well-Known Member
BWG56 said:
I was told not to pull the motor plug. I realize some of the old oil will remain, but are you saying that you should remove both the tank plug and the engine plug?
Is it safe to start the motor to circulate the oil into the motor or just crank it over for the oil to get in the motor without starting it?
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Yes you should start your bike and let it run up to operating temp. Turn the bike off. Then drain your oil tank, engine case, and change the oil filter ever oil change. Just be careful to not over torque the drain plug on the bottom of the engine case..... well both that and the oil tank as well. I have had a few on the oil tank F-d up by customers, had to extract them and it can be a bit of a challenge if it is extremely tight.
Clean the threads on all the oil plugs and put a small amount of liquid pipe thread sealant onto the threads before reinstalling them. This will help to make sure the plugs do not leak. ( you do not need a lot, just a small amount, NOT a huge gob )
 
chopperfool

chopperfool

Member
Wow - I have never pulled the crank plug, but will do next oil change - QUESTION - what torque would you put on the crank oil plug? And - liquid pipe thread sealant - I've got "Harvey's TFE Paste" (white, slow setting, non-hardening), it says can handle temps up to +400 degrees, good for fuels, oils, ect., so assume this is good to use, unless I'm missing something? THANKS MAN!
 
BWG56

BWG56

Guru
bigdogtech01 said:
Yes you should start your bike and let it run up to operating temp. Turn the bike off. Then drain your oil tank, engine case, and change the oil filter ever oil change. Just be careful to not over torque the drain plug on the bottom of the engine case..... well both that and the oil tank as well. I have had a few on the oil tank F-d up by customers, had to extract them and it can be a bit of a challenge if it is extremely tight.
Clean the threads on all the oil plugs and put a small amount of liquid pipe thread sealant onto the threads before reinstalling them. This will help to make sure the plugs do not leak. ( you do not need a lot, just a small amount, NOT a huge gob )
Click to expand...
BIG THANKS
 
B

bigdogtech01

Well-Known Member
chopperfool said:
Wow - I have never pulled the crank plug, but will do next oil change - QUESTION - what torque would you put on the crank oil plug? And - liquid pipe thread sealant - I've got "Harvey's TFE Paste" (white, slow setting, non-hardening), it says can handle temps up to +400 degrees, good for fuels, oils, ect., so assume this is good to use, unless I'm missing something? THANKS MAN!
Click to expand...
I would say no more than 5-7 ft lbs. on that plug. I don't think BDM or S&S has a torque setting for it but could be wrong. I use Permatex brand thread sealant that sounds like it is close to the same stuff.

Permatex® High Performance Thread Sealant
OEM specified. Formulated specifically for metal, tapered pipe thread fittings, it replaces Teflon® tape and pipe dopes. Cures rapidly to withstand 10,000 PSI. Prevents galling and protects mated threaded areas from rust and corrosion. Contains PTFE.

Suggested Applications: Stainless steel fittings, head bolts into through holes, oil PSI sending units/sensors, oil and coolant lines, intake manifold switches, rear axle fill plug, fuel fittings

http://www.permatex.com/products/Au..._Permatex_High_Performance_Thread_Sealant.htm
 
chopperfool

chopperfool

Member
Excellent information! I saved that "How To Service your Big Dog" link, very good stuff (I am out today to grab me a scavenger pump!) - thanks BBChopper, and of course thank again Bigdogtech01!
 
BWG56

BWG56

Guru
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