i have constant running lights. there is no way to turn them off. so thats what it is
V/reg recognizes demand out of the battery, right? Say we have 3 variables to eliminate.
Stator = What is my output at max rpm? The faster I rotate, the more I upset things as in cause heat, which move molecules, meaning, that makes more voltage out the wires. What is that chart against your wires?
V/reg = I regulate what the stator puts out in excess. I'm in the middle of this. I see your headlight on at idle, that is more current out the battery the stator needs to come up with. I am constantly regulating 14v into that battery as we putt down the road. At idle with key on, front and rear lights on, I now have to kick in more than is being used out of the battery. If I am regulating, I should be showing more volts, especially if I am a computer bike that needs a constant 5v for that system.
Battery = I am a storage unit. I am feeding lights/ign/black box telemetry. If I am at 12v, do you see how I could be 4.99v from being 5v if that battery drops anymore? That is why I have to be well charged on the surface at 12.8v. If I am down to 12.1 from a well charged battery, meaning, 12.8 is now 12.1 in a day or so after a charge and it sits for days, then it's a battery that cannot hold even a surface charge.
1. Where are we in stator output? We want to see if the battery is the problem.
2. The V/reg shows it can move and control voltage when revved. So without some other bike checking it's charge and sending in a post as to what their bike idles at, it might be normal if it cuts off at 14 said volts. So no, it's not the V/reg at this time, nor say the stator. Why? Because the V/reg can cut off and sustain that 14v window, right?
3. We are down to the battery as the whole loop are these 3 components. Back to what someone said about a load test. Surface test, walk away from the battery after it's been charged. Write down the digital number, then test down the road, or help it with a bulb on for 3 minutes and no more.
