I have a friend with a 2004 Pitt bull and the belt driven chain isnt tight enough. I obviously dont know anything about it but saw him out the other day struggling to figure out how to tighten it. I was looking for a forum here that I could direct him to with some pointers. Thanks folks.
Chain drooping
- Thread starter Kennedy
- Start date
What is he having problems with. Give us a little more detail
I found this video but when I got the url for Kennedy to look up it took me to youtube and several people are telling him that this guy is doing it wrong. https://www.bigdogbiker.com/threads/primary-chain-adjustment-video.82399/#post-858630
Oh well Thanks guys. I dont know enough to be his go between here and might give John K the password here that I used to sign up. Thanks you guys.
Oh well Thanks guys. I dont know enough to be his go between here and might give John K the password here that I used to sign up. Thanks you guys.
I know this is an older post, I looked through youtube before doing a stator and watched this for a reference to adjusting my primary chain. The guy in the video said he is adjusting at the point of most slack, which from what I have read ... IS wrong.
AND .. I HOPE it IS wrong because I adjusted mine at the tightest spot.
AND .. I HOPE it IS wrong because I adjusted mine at the tightest spot.
Do what Curtis did with the chain tooth walk going up, meaning, pull the teeth lock out far enough so it slides up and down and no further. Move the toothed bar up till it stops, but has to lock in straight on, not push up one more lock... is not the starting point.
The next move is to move it down one tooth notch. That's the easy lift/load slack you want. Measuring is moot. Couple of more clues. Go look at a frozen shot of a drag bike chain's lower rung under load, or a road racing chain under load and the belly loop of the bottom rung of the chain. They are not bow-string'd in other words. That ever so slight belly bowl at the top rung is close enough. I just did a clutch and before I took it apart, I could not spin the clutch center. I setup the center screw, the cable slack, all that shit and no joy. Found the plates were hardly worn, no warp of the steels, shuffled the plates around, reassembled, set the screw/cable/lever pull, and could spin the clutch center by hand. It has nothing to do with finding N is the primary slack, but plate breakaway. You want that sag so you can slide the fork with less drag between chain pulls [lift/load]... being that fast on the shift is that fast on the sag is that helper.
Make sense? Not crossbow tight. That's insurance you are not pre-loading on the outer basket, but more has float; no load at the bearings; no chain high-spot coming around to load the bearings. The Curtis move is to swing the tape backwards 2 turns, not forward 2 turns or you have a new measurement. It would take 50 or more spins to get back to the same tooth to link again.
The next move is to move it down one tooth notch. That's the easy lift/load slack you want. Measuring is moot. Couple of more clues. Go look at a frozen shot of a drag bike chain's lower rung under load, or a road racing chain under load and the belly loop of the bottom rung of the chain. They are not bow-string'd in other words. That ever so slight belly bowl at the top rung is close enough. I just did a clutch and before I took it apart, I could not spin the clutch center. I setup the center screw, the cable slack, all that shit and no joy. Found the plates were hardly worn, no warp of the steels, shuffled the plates around, reassembled, set the screw/cable/lever pull, and could spin the clutch center by hand. It has nothing to do with finding N is the primary slack, but plate breakaway. You want that sag so you can slide the fork with less drag between chain pulls [lift/load]... being that fast on the shift is that fast on the sag is that helper.
Make sense? Not crossbow tight. That's insurance you are not pre-loading on the outer basket, but more has float; no load at the bearings; no chain high-spot coming around to load the bearings. The Curtis move is to swing the tape backwards 2 turns, not forward 2 turns or you have a new measurement. It would take 50 or more spins to get back to the same tooth to link again.
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
Welcome Badco, https://www.dropbox.com/s/vz0k8dx26ufe7em/Chapter 6 Clutch and Primary Drive.pdf?dl=0
This is the adjustment from the 07 k9 manual . It does state to make the adjustment at the tightest spot on the chain. Your probably OK . You definitely don't want it too tight.
Also,as an aside, I believe consensus is that 20 OZ of primary fluid is ample and will help prevent your starter from getting flooded with fluid.
Well, had it out for about 50 miles today and as far as charging it did the trick. I also had trouble before this finding neutral and popping out of 1st occasionally. Those problems also went away. I was going to pop the cover of the trans and adjust the pawl, but , not broken ... don't fix.
However, now when its cold it seems the clutch isn't right as going into first (when cold) it will not want to go in to well. It was fine before , perfect actually and is why I didn't even touch it. Just had enough room to get the chain off without bending it or forcing it. AND briefly had a miss on one of the cylinders twice.
Once warmed up the clutch feels right , but I think I will go back in and adjust that. Gonna replace the plugs and wires. Any pref.s on plugs? Might just do a coil too and get it over with (no worries and no tows). Where do you guys buy your coils and wires?
However, now when its cold it seems the clutch isn't right as going into first (when cold) it will not want to go in to well. It was fine before , perfect actually and is why I didn't even touch it. Just had enough room to get the chain off without bending it or forcing it. AND briefly had a miss on one of the cylinders twice.
Once warmed up the clutch feels right , but I think I will go back in and adjust that. Gonna replace the plugs and wires. Any pref.s on plugs? Might just do a coil too and get it over with (no worries and no tows). Where do you guys buy your coils and wires?
Thank you! Would harley wires not work well?