Carb spits usually in 5 and 6th gear while cruising

mptexas

Member
My carb has spit out the carb ever since it bought it (about 2 years ago). This week I ran into the problem where the float in the bowl got stuck so I dropped the bowl and cleaned it out. Gas flowed well and she runs good, except the spitting when I am in 5th or 6th gear usually (it has happened in 4th, but not normally 2nd or 3rd guessing because I am not in those gears very long). It bogs down slightly then sounds like the carb spits and she peps right back up.

Problem is not the spitting is worse, it bogs down pretty bad before spitting and then getting my power back.

Any ideas on how to correct this problem?
 

Little-Boo

Well-Known Member
Troop Supporter
My carb has spit out the carb ever since it bought it (about 2 years ago). This week I ran into the problem where the float in the bowl got stuck so I dropped the bowl and cleaned it out. Gas flowed well and she runs good, except the spitting when I am in 5th or 6th gear usually (it has happened in 4th, but not normally 2nd or 3rd guessing because I am not in those gears very long). It bogs down slightly then sounds like the carb spits and she peps right back up.

Problem is not the spitting is worse, it bogs down pretty bad before spitting and then getting my power back.

Any ideas on how to correct this problem?
What speed at 5 and 6 gear. I usually don't use 5 until I am doing at least 60 and 6th gear at about 70 and above. If it bogs down the Accel pump need to be adjusted so as to throttle without hesitation. If it hesitates when you throttle you need to get that adjusted, might solve your issue. :2thumbs: Either that or you are shifting into the higher gears to soon.

Carlos
 

heybaylor

Active Member
check your fuel tank vent.
Air must get in the tank for the gas to flow out.
sounds to me like it is starving , then flows .
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Gas flowed well and she runs good, except the spitting when I am in 5th or 6th gear usually
Problem is... it bogs down pretty bad before spitting and then getting my power back.
1. Thru the gears there is no fuel loss, you checked flow with cap still on and I am going to assume the cap was left on, baylor.
2. You bought a used bike and can you tell if the Orig-Owner tampered with timing?
3. The bike starts right up, idles like no spit present, cold was the start up and if those say yes, then no intake boot leak, right?
4. First thing I bring home to play with, I tear out her plug, check her compression.
5. Last thing I do is set the carb:
a. Where is my timing I bring something strange home and who tampered with a preset that needs no movement, bla-bla times stroke times formula.
b. Where are my valves set I pull a strap off the pushrod tube and see if it's solid or adjustable?
c. Now that I have my valves set with gap to compensate for 'valve and/or seat sink,' I have no valve off its seat spitting out the carb/exhaust I clear that variable.
d. I am ready to check my compression.
e. Once the bike starts with equal compression or close enough percentages, I check my timing-wink-wink, you ground the coil, because it starts that easy the timing is spot on.
f. Valves/Comp/Timing, note how last the carb is about to be set last and why.

Make sense?

1. Sounds like timing sounds like fuel.
2. Sounds like rich is the bog.
3. Sounds like lean is the spit.
4. Sounds like rich is the spit, but what rpm are we trying this and spit is low rpm is lean, high rpm spit is rich.
5. Sounds like I'm going to assume you cleared all the valve burn (spit), the out of time [assume the tamper spit]
6. Sounds like I buy new plugs and ride my spitter, come home after a few miles: once I hear the spit.
7. Sounds like the quicker ride home is to yank the plug and what black soot or white porcelain are we looking at?
 

BadDawg Bill

Well-Known Member
check your fuel tank vent.
Air must get in the tank for the gas to flow out.
sounds to me like it is starving , then flows .
It wouldn't be that because it would take awhile to get more gas in the line not just a few seconds. His Accel pump is set wrong or as Carlos said he is shifting too soon.
 

BadDawg Bill

Well-Known Member
Check out the S&S web site. You can download carb tuning instructions.
S&S Carb Tuning Tips

Idle Circuit
1. Start engine and run until slightly warm (about 1 to 2 minutes).
2. Turn RPM adjusting screw to obtain an idle speed of approx. 1000 RPM.
3. Turn Idle mixture screw clockwise, slowly leaning mixture until engine starts to die. Next, turn screw counterclockwise, slowly richening mixture, until engine RPM start to fall off, counting the number of turns as you do so. Mixture adjustment is correct when screw is positioned about halfway between these points which should be approx. 1/4 to ½ turn out from lean side of adjustment range.
Note:
Turning screw out (counterclockwise) makes idle mixture richer. Turning screw in (clockwise) makes mixture leaner. Normally correctly adjusted screw will be between 1 1/4 – 1 ½ turns out from bottom if intermediate jet size is correct.

4. After initial idle mixture adjustment is set, reset engine idle to approximately 1000 RPM. A lower idle speed can cause hard starting; poor throttle response erratic idle and unnecessary engine wear.
5. Once the engine has reached normal operating temperature, repeat steps 3 & 4.

Idle Circuit Notes:
•If idle adjustments are made before engine is fully warmed, idle mixture will be rich when engine reaches operating temperature.
•Whenever intermediate jet change is made, idle mixture screw must be readjusted.
•If idle mixture screw is more than 1 3/4 out after idle mixture is correctly adjusted, it is a fairly good indication that the intermediate jet may be too small and should be changed to the next larger size. Conversely, if the idle mixture screw is less than 1 1/4 turns out the intermediate jet may need to be changed to the next smaller size.
•If idle mixture screw is turned completely in engine should not run at idle. If engine continues to run at idle with idle mixture screw seated, recheck initial setting of idle speed screw, and make sure enrichment plunger is seated. If engine still runs at idle with idle mixture screw all the in, contact S&S Tech support.

Accelerator Pump:
The function of the accelerator pump is to improve throttle response when rapidly opening the throttle at low rpm and to aid in cold starts. S&S sets the accelerator pump adjusting screw for maximum volume (all the way out) to aid during initial start-up after installation. Turning the screw inward (clockwise) decreases delivered pump volume. Turning it outward (counter clockwise) increases pump volume.

Adjusting the Accelerator Pump:
1. Warm engine to operating temperature.
2. Turn pump travel adjusting screw inward until screw contacts pump actuator arm. This shuts off the pump. Caution – closing adjusting screw with excessive force can cause irreversible damage to screw threads in carb body.
3. With engine warm and at idle, blip throttle and note throttle response.
4. Turn pump travel screw outward or counter clockwise about 1/4 turn at a time and recheck throttle response until engine no longer hesitates. This is usually about two turns out.
5. Minimum pump travel is recommended to conserve fuel, prevent spark plug fouling, and curtail black smoke from pipes when blipping throttle. Black smoke is usually an indication of a rich condition or excessive accelerator pump travel.

Some Performance Notes:

•To be sure idle mixture adjustment is correct; always check with fully hot engine.
•If popping or backfiring through air cleaner occurs upon taking off, this indicates a lean condition requiring that a larger intermediate jet be installed (one size larger) (size is stamped on bottom of jet).
•When fine tuning the intermediate circuit, it is best to turn off the accelerator pump completely. It can mask jetting symptoms.
•Whenever the intermediate jet is changed, the idle mixture should be readjusted.
•If engine backfires or sputters in carburetor or breaks up and or dies during acceleration, increase or richen main jet size.
•If engine runs flat and sluggish or blubbers, or will not take throttle, decrease main jet size.
•Always use an insulator block between carb and manifold. If not the heat transfer from the manifold to the carb may cause a temporary rich condition at idle and low speed rpm.
 
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