Carb help

I have a big dog 107 super g but I have a stumble when I slow down to a stop sign or something and then get back on the gas it kind of backfires through the carburetor I took the accelerator pump apart I seen the spring was on the wrong side of the diaphragm I put it on the right side it ran better but it's still stumbles every now and then I got a new kit coming for it any ideas about installing any kits like boyesen quick shot 3 or sifton gunsite nozzle or anything to kind of clean it up I'd appreciate some help
 

HMAN

I just like my Freedom
Your best bet would be to send to John Sachs. He can give the proper tweak to your Super G.
 

Mickmorris

Well Known Member
Supporting Member
I have a big dog 107 super g but I have a stumble when I slow down to a stop sign or something and then get back on the gas it kind of backfires through the carburetor I took the accelerator pump apart I seen the spring was on the wrong side of the diaphragm I put it on the right side it ran better but it's still stumbles every now and then I got a new kit coming for it any ideas about installing any kits like boyesen quick shot 3 or sifton gunsite nozzle or anything to kind of clean it up I'd appreciate some help
If you decide to do it yourself get some Berryman Chem-Dip. It works the best for cleaning carb parts. You can get it at like Autozone or Discount Auto Parts. Pretty easy operation overall.
 
If you decide to do it yourself get some Berryman Chem-Dip. It works the best for cleaning carb parts. You can get it at like Autozone or Discount Auto Parts.
I think my issue is I have a set of Vance & Hines Big shot staggered on there and I was trying to get some of the reversion out of it and you know the back pressure thing so I put some thunder torque inserts in it now I got good power but down low off idle I don't think the squirters working the greatest I got a kit coming for it and I've been checking into a boyenson quick shot 3 adjustable cover for the accelerator pump I'll let you know how that works out
 

Mickmorris

Well Known Member
Supporting Member
I think my issue is I have a set of Vance & Hines Big shot staggered on there and I was trying to get some of the reversion out of it and you know the back pressure thing so I put some thunder torque inserts in it now I got good power but down low off idle I don't think the squirters working the greatest I got a kit coming for it and I've been checking into a boyenson quick shot 3 adjustable cover for the accelerator pump I'll let you know how that works out
So yeah you probably need to do some jetting work. Exhaust changes will make that happen.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
I took the accelerator pump apart I seen the spring was on the wrong side of the diaphragm I put it on the right side it ran better but...
If you caught the carb, how about the timing? Previous owner fiddlefucked with it so I'd go over everything on the bike.
 
If you caught the carb, how about the timing? Previous owner fiddlefucked with it so I'd go over everything on the bike.
I don't know too much about the timing I had my mechanic put a dyna 2000 ignition in it I did pull the plugs a while back I noticed the burn mark was a little lower than I like on the ground strap but it was probably acceptable why don't you give me a buzz I've had this bike for a couple years so I've done work to it give me a call I won't keep you long 612-267-1722
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
I rather we go back and forth on this thread so others can look at it for diagnosis purposes. See what the walk-thru looks like.

Plug wise, are the plug threads wet with oil? Is the porcelain black/tan/white? Does the bike idle without touching the throttle when you start it. Can you spray brake clean at the Y connector so there is no air leak occurring? Then plug porcelain would look white, have less power, being the air enters sooner and drops the suck from the carb holes and goes lean. Plug read at the porcelain is?
 
I rather we go back and forth on this thread so others can look at it for diagnosis purposes. See what the walk-thru looks like.

Plug wise, are the plug threads wet with oil? Is the porcelain black/tan/white? Does the bike idle without touching the throttle when you start it. Can you spray brake clean at the Y connector so there is no air leak occurring? Then plug porcelain would look white, have less power, being the air enters sooner and drops the suck from the carb holes and goes lean. Plug read at the porcelain is?
 
The machine runs great , it idles fine it starts fine when you get on the throttle through the gears it goes like a raped ape now the plugs look all right maybe a little bit on the light side the burn mark is a little bit past the corner a little farther than I like but I think it's all right the only problem I have is every once in awhile when I'm riding it I come to a stop or slow down and I go to snap the throttle and it sneezes through the carburetor I did take the bowl off and I seen someone he put the spring on the wrong side of the diaphragm so fix that I went riding that kind of did the same thing it has a 3176 setup I have the accelerator screw out about two turns so I ordered a kit for it I just got it today so I'll put that in and see if that makes a difference other than that that's the only problem I have every once in awhile it sneezes through the carburetor when I slow down and then go to crack the throttle hard everything else is great
 
It never seemed to do that before until I put the thunder torque inserts in the pipes the pipes are big shots staggered by the way I was trying to get some reversion out of the way or back pressure or whatever you want to call it and it did make a big difference I bet you I picked up almost 10 horse maybe it's a coincidence it started doing that after I did that but nevertheless I got to get that fixed it's annoying as a mofo
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
It never seemed to do that before until I put the thunder torque inserts in the pipes
That would have been lost in the phone call. Interesting. So the science says you can duplicate it. Take the inserts out and the spit out of the carb is gone.

... trying to get some reversion out of the way or back pressure or whatever you want to call it
I think if it's simple to explain, sounds like it might be? This is my kind of junk science to it if I think, 'for every action' and all that. So insert out is a faster flow out, more gas pulled, but less of a bump in torque at the bottom. Open baffle is more for top end speeds. If you 'clog' the flow with a baffle/insert, you bumped up more [back] pressure-looking to find an out. Messing with nature, you are always fighting nature heading back to 14.7 psi or Atmosphere.

I'm looking at the Atmo trying to go back to its balance. I now think in junk science, and I think I see the pop out the carb of nature reverting back to that balance back to the Atmo. So inserted-you look at that bubble of air pushing the gas that was coming out, going back in. That means more gas, more power, you feel the bottom end torque increase, and this bubble is pushed out the carb finding that balanced reversion = Popping by the clogging of the exhaust flow.

... maybe it's a coincidence it started doing that after I did that but nevertheless I got to get that fixed it's annoying as a mofo
Coincidence or junk science if you followed it. My interpreter will be here shortly to translate.

Fix The Annoyer:
First thing comes to mind is the threads I'm imagining. Welded nut, then I'm not concerned. Sheet metal screws, who knows, but this is going to be a lot of slow testing and a lot of R&R of the inserts. My thought is how many drill sizes and how many inserts before the pop goes away.

This is assuming the bike rips like the dickens without inserts. That means no jetting and lose that performance. Especially at the plug read. A quick look at the porcelain tip, and as much as you can see by eye. A photo and we can look at the read. But on your end, name the color(s).

How big a drill hole do we start with? How many inserts do we drill or leave alone? See what I'm getting at? In and out is one insert and we start at the first one in. It's a 50/50 swap who stops the pop, closer out the back, or deeper in the pipe.

Thinking this out, we want the speed to happen sooner. So the deeper the holed insert, the sooner the air slows down or drops in pressure, rather than farther down at the back insert. Yeah, I think I'd be holing the deeper insert. Make sense?

My interpreter will be explaining this one too.

Signed,
The Cloggers Club Of America
 
That would have been lost in the phone call. Interesting. So the science says you can duplicate it. Take the inserts out and the spit out of the carb is gone.


I think if it's simple to explain, sounds like it might be? This is my kind of junk science to it if I think, 'for every action' and all that. So insert out is a faster flow out, more gas pulled, but less of a bump in torque at the bottom. Open baffle is more for top end speeds. If you 'clog' the flow with a baffle/insert, you bumped up more [back] pressure-looking to find an out. Messing with nature, you are always fighting nature heading back to 14.7 psi or Atmosphere.

I'm looking at the Atmo trying to go back to its balance. I now think in junk science, and I think I see the pop out the carb of nature reverting back to that balance back to the Atmo. So inserted-you look at that bubble of air pushing the gas that was coming out, going back in. That means more gas, more power, you feel the bottom end torque increase, and this bubble is pushed out the carb finding that balanced reversion = Popping by the clogging of the exhaust flow.


Coincidence or junk science if you followed it. My interpreter will be here shortly to translate.

Fix The Annoyer:
First thing comes to mind is the threads I'm imagining. Welded nut, then I'm not concerned. Sheet metal screws, who knows, but this is going to be a lot of slow testing and a lot of R&R of the inserts. My thought is how many drill sizes and how many inserts before the pop goes away.

This is assuming the bike rips like the dickens without inserts. That means no jetting and lose that performance. Especially at the plug read. A quick look at the porcelain tip, and as much as you can see by eye. A photo and we can look at the read. But on your end, name the color(s).

How big a drill hole do we start with? How many inserts do we drill or leave alone? See what I'm getting at? In and out is one insert and we start at the first one in. It's a 50/50 swap who stops the pop, closer out the back, or deeper in the pipe.

Thinking this out, we want the speed to happen sooner. So the deeper the holed insert, the sooner the air slows down or drops in pressure, rather than farther down at the back insert. Yeah, I think I'd be holing the deeper insert. Make sense?

My interpreter will be explaining this one too.

Signed,
The Cloggers Club Of America
I was kind of thinking it was something related to the way the fuel was coming out of the accelerator pump nozzle they never spray a fine mist there's a fine line in there I noticed with the air cleaner off looking and working the rod on the accelerator pump that maybe it was an accelerator pump delivery issue I have to put a kid in it I think the rubber diaphragm is old I just got a new one today from Dennis Kirk with the spring check balls and all the rest I did order one of those boyesens quick shot 3 adjustable pressure regulator covers I might just leave the stock nozzle in there although the new cover comes with the nozzle with one hole I don't want to pull the old nozzle out have issues right at this minute I'll just try the new kit and try the regulator and if that don't take care of things I might pull the baffles and be ashamed to lose the good horsepower I got out of it I even tried to take the thunder torque baffles and tilt them at an angle so they would breed better but sounded like shit and didn't work well I know drag pipe suck that's just how I bought it wouldn't mind having a good two into one exhaust like a LSR or something but it's not a race machine anything I used to speed run snowmobiles for over 20 years I had a Arctic cat triple that was 250 horse it went almost 140 in 1,000 ft so I kind of like engines running at their peak if you know what I mean I'll just fuck with it and try this accelerator pump situation and if that ain't it I might just pull the baffles out and put the stock cheese grater back in
 
I was kind of thinking it was something related to the way the fuel was coming out of the accelerator pump nozzle they never spray a fine mist there's a fine line in there I noticed with the air cleaner off looking and working the rod on the accelerator pump that maybe it was an accelerator pump delivery issue I have to put a kid in it I think the rubber diaphragm is old I just got a new one today from Dennis Kirk with the spring check balls and all the rest I did order one of those boyesens quick shot 3 adjustable pressure regulator covers I might just leave the stock nozzle in there although the new cover comes with the nozzle with one hole I don't want to pull the old nozzle out have issues right at this minute I'll just try the new kit and try the regulator and if that don't take care of things I might pull the baffles and be ashamed to lose the good horsepower I got out of it I even tried to take the thunder torque baffles and tilt them at an angle so they would breed better but sounded like shit and didn't work well I know drag pipe suck that's just how I bought it wouldn't mind having a good two into one exhaust like a LSR or something but it's not a race machine anything I used to speed run snowmobiles for over 20 years I had a Arctic cat triple that was 250 horse it went almost 140 in 1,000 ft so I kind of like engines running at their peak if you know what I mean I'll just fuck with it and try this accelerator pump situation and if that ain't it I might just pull the baffles out and put the stock cheese grater back in
Well to get back to those posts that I created I put a accelerator pump kit on I even tried one of those boyeson quick fuel 3 pump covers which I'll never know if it worked it had a different jet nozzle that was a one-hole squirter squirted quite a ways by the way but I could never tune that bike with those thunder torque inserts it would always pop no matter what I tried so when I pulled the inserts out and put the stock cheese grater baffles back in I did take the boyesen cover off because I didn't want to leave anything up to chance the pop went away runs fine again I did install one of those sefton bomb site nozzles in the carburetor I know some people don't like them I guess but seems to work all right in my case wouldn't mind trying to find a set of two into one exhaust does anybody know what would fit on there it's a 02 with a 250 rear tire left side drive I wouldn't mind something like a d&d or I suppose I could have the LSR pipe made but a thunderheader would probably be kind of loud I don't know if it'd be any longer than what I got but anyway any thoughts would be appreciated
 
Well to get back to those posts that I created I put a accelerator pump kit on I even tried one of those boyeson quick fuel 3 pump covers which I'll never know if it worked it had a different jet nozzle that was a one-hole squirter squirted quite a ways by the way but I could never tune that bike with those thunder torque inserts it would always pop no matter what I tried so when I pulled the inserts out and put the stock cheese grater baffles back in I did take the boyesen cover off because I didn't want to leave anything up to chance the pop went away runs fine again I did install one of those sefton bomb site nozzles in the carburetor I know some people don't like them I guess but seems to work all right in my case wouldn't mind trying to find a set of two into one exhaust does anybody know what would fit on there it's a 02 with a 250 rear tire left side drive I wouldn't mind something like a d&d or I suppose I could have the LSR pipe made but a thunderheader would probably be kind of loud I don't know if it'd be any longer than what I got but anyway any thoughts would be appreciated
Update to what I've been doing I took the smaller version of the thunder torque inserts mounted them at the back of my Vance and Hines Big shots staggered also installed the sifton bomb site nozzle and the carburetor everything works just peachy now and I checked my gas mileage 40 miles fill the tank back up to where it was .748 gallons which my math would put it at about 50 miles to the gallon believe it or not just saying
 
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