pauldeepsea
Guru
Your running lean on the plugs, have you checked for leaks intake and carb manifold? Additionally, the belt needs replaced ASAP or that could go and cause allot of damage.. transmission etc. they are easy to change
Carb adjustment still not right
- Thread starter Brent Herridge
- Start date
Brent Herridge
Active Member
Shop said they went 3 jet sizes leaner, which is odd. Plugs are brand new.
Easy to replace the belt ? Is it front pulley cover, rear wheel and exhaust mount all that comes off ?
Easy to replace the belt ? Is it front pulley cover, rear wheel and exhaust mount all that comes off ?
Brent Herridge
Active Member
133 tooth by 1 1/8" is what I saw on other threads.
knothead
Second Chance Customs
Well it takes little riding to color a plug and see what its really doing.....but the electrode tip has been hot from being lean i can see it in the picture...ceramic will take a liitle riding like i was saying to color it, like say maybe 20 miles...and yes what u found on ur belt is the correct belt 133 tooth 1 1/8...
Last edited:
Brent Herridge
Active Member
Plugs actually have about 40 miles on them. This is nuts.......should've gotten the Mikuni originally.
best thing to do is to correct problems with what you have. throwing lots of money at it will only add to frustration. use this as a learning experience for when you do the work yourself, and don't give up.
Looks like its lean, and that belt needs some help! What happened to that thing? Looks like its been chewed up!
Dropping 3 jet sizes is a lot! Can you find out what's in there? .295 was factory and they came pretty lean to pass EPA. Most of us have gone to a .31. If there was motor work done and compression raised on your engine a .295 is more feasible.
If you got no motor work done and living In Texas you should be around a 31 intermediate and either a 76 or 78 main. That's what Ive ran for years never a problem. I'd start there and I'll bet it's just playing with the adjustment from there. I can get 140-150 miles on a tank if I'm just cruising.
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Brent Herridge
Active Member
Thanks. I'll start ASAP, but won't be in Arkansas next week. 
pauldeepsea
Guru
Curtis has falcon belts and they are quality. What year is your bike ? On mine left side drive it requires removing the primary and the rear wheel to access the pulley. Right side drive will require removing the cover plate on the transmission to access the pulley. You will have to remove the rear tire.
Install new belt and re assemble. Then align rear wheel and tension on the belt. This is a vague how too if you decide to do it definitely have the service manual handy. It’s not hard but there are some very critical steps
pauldeepsea
Guru
May want to reach out to the Texas guys to lend a hand if they are available it may only cost you some beer
Brent Herridge
Active Member
Parts ordered......i'll look also to see if I can get jets locally to save some time.
Thanks for everyones help.
Thanks for everyones help.
HMAN
I just like my Freedom
Give a shout out to Strokers. I bet AmyLulu will get ya fixed up right. I'M even gonna try to show for a day so.......hell, drive up if ya gotta. Just remember, YOU CAN DO IT!
that bike shop should have a 0.31 Intermediate Jet. Call them ask whats in it, if it's not a 0.31 tell them you want to just pickup a 0.31 & and a 76 & 78 Main if that's it. Call me if they don't have them in stock.
It will be an easy swap, even without doing it before. I be willing to bet it only will take you an hour or two to get it in and tuned. Just gotta remove the carb bowl and it's only 4 screws. Once it's buttoned up just read the S&S carb adjustment manual and it will tell you how to put back to stock setting and adjust from there. S&S may even have a video on YouTube on how to adjust.
Brent Herridge
Active Member
Just now finished up normal daily sh%t, so too late to tear open the carb. I hope to do that tomorrow evening and at least see what's in there now.
Brent Herridge
Active Member
What a turn-around. A buddy gave (yes gave !!) me a nice jack, and another buddy helped me do the work. All finished......and nearly in time for the Aggie kick-off. I'll post plug pics tomorrow.
Thanks so much for everyone's support.
Thanks so much for everyone's support.
Brent Herridge
Active Member
Bike fired right up after the jet change. It had 76 main and 28 pilot. I changed pilot to the 31 like recommended. Seems to run fine. Before it was popping much more than normal on deceleration, and that's back to normal now. I was only able to really get on it in low gear a couple of times, but it seemed OK. I ran it to about 100 mph in 5th and that seemed to go well also.
The original, bad belt was loose enough to take off and back onto the front pulley with the wheel right where it is. Bet that's a red flag........ Pictures below show the wear on both sides of it after just a few test rides on a brand new belt. I thought it was only wearing on one side, but apparently being that loose just beats it up on both sides.
The belt is pretty tight now, and that is also working as expected. I got on it in 1st a couple of times and 2nd two or three times and it was good. I haven't put the guard back in place yet though. I'll keep an eye on it during the trip next week and hopefully will be able to put it back on when I get back.
The clutch work, while unrelated to the work at hand yet required, was also interesting. Figured out how that works and how to adjust the clutch. I got really lucky and it seems about 95% perfect on the first try. I adjusted it without running it before buttoning everything back up, but it turned out pretty good. It creeps the tiniest bit, but neutral was reasonably easy to find and I don't think it's slipping any at WOT in 1st or 2nd gear.
How does that clutch rod adjuster cover stay on being just finger tight ?
I'm so happy this is done and BBBBQ is back on track.
Thanks again for the support and good advice.
Old belt (both sides):
Front plug (only ~10 mile test ride):
Rear plug:
The original, bad belt was loose enough to take off and back onto the front pulley with the wheel right where it is. Bet that's a red flag........ Pictures below show the wear on both sides of it after just a few test rides on a brand new belt. I thought it was only wearing on one side, but apparently being that loose just beats it up on both sides.
The belt is pretty tight now, and that is also working as expected. I got on it in 1st a couple of times and 2nd two or three times and it was good. I haven't put the guard back in place yet though. I'll keep an eye on it during the trip next week and hopefully will be able to put it back on when I get back.
The clutch work, while unrelated to the work at hand yet required, was also interesting. Figured out how that works and how to adjust the clutch. I got really lucky and it seems about 95% perfect on the first try. I adjusted it without running it before buttoning everything back up, but it turned out pretty good. It creeps the tiniest bit, but neutral was reasonably easy to find and I don't think it's slipping any at WOT in 1st or 2nd gear.
How does that clutch rod adjuster cover stay on being just finger tight ?
I'm so happy this is done and BBBBQ is back on track.
Thanks again for the support and good advice.
Old belt (both sides):
Front plug (only ~10 mile test ride):
Rear plug:
Well you learned don't use that shop! I really surprised they would put a 28 on a 117!Bike fired right up after the jet change. It had 76 main and 28 pilot. I changed pilot to the 31 like recommended. Seems to run fine. Before it was popping much more than normal on deceleration, and that's back to normal now. I was only able to really get on it in low gear a couple of times, but it seemed OK. I ran it to about 100 mph in 5th and that seemed to go well also.
The original, bad belt was loose enough to take off and back onto the front pulley with the wheel right where it is. Bet that's a red flag........ Pictures below show the wear on both sides of it after just a few test rides on a brand new belt. I thought it was only wearing on one side, but apparently being that loose just beats it up on both sides.
The belt is pretty tight now, and that is also working as expected. I got on it in 1st a couple of times and 2nd two or three times and it was good. I haven't put the guard back in place yet though. I'll keep an eye on it during the trip next week and hopefully will be able to put it back on when I get back.
The clutch work, while unrelated to the work at hand yet required, was also interesting. Figured out how that works and how to adjust the clutch. I got really lucky and it seems about 95% perfect on the first try. I adjusted it without running it before buttoning everything back up, but it turned out pretty good. It creeps the tiniest bit, but neutral was reasonably easy to find and I don't think it's slipping any at WOT in 1st or 2nd gear.
How does that clutch rod adjuster cover stay on being just finger tight ?
I'm so happy this is done and BBBBQ is back on track.
Thanks again for the support and good advice.
Old belt (both sides):
View attachment 67906View attachment 67912
Front plug (only ~10 mile test ride):
View attachment 67907View attachment 67911
Rear plug:
View attachment 67908View attachment 67909View attachment 67910
Wear on the belt is because they didn't align your rear tire well.
2 Strikes! Lol
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Brent Herridge
Active Member
The rear tire seems aligned. The check we did was rotate the tire and see if the belt tried to walk over on the front pulley, and also the tire-to-belt clearance. When I spun the wheel backwards the belt walked to the outside of the front pulley, but normal direction it went back to the middle and stayed there. Clearance between tire and belt was consistent also. So I did not change the actual alignment. I did have to add about 3/4 of a turn on the adjustment screws to tighten the belt.
I just noticed, however, that the outside edge of the new belt is worn. The belt is positioned on the outside edge of the rear pulley.
I just noticed, however, that the outside edge of the new belt is worn. The belt is positioned on the outside edge of the rear pulley.