Carb adjustment still not right
- Thread starter Brent Herridge
- Start date
pauldeepsea
Guru
Gaskets are easy, I have actually made my own from gasket material (Napa). Not sure what brand of air filter you have but you just have to remove the cone to get the air filter out. I use k&n air filter cleaner and oil.
Brent Herridge
Active Member
Just got those exact materials - gasket sheet and K&N filter clean kit and loctite. I'll test it and then lock it if all is well.
Nukeranger
Nukeranger
You can buy sheets of gasket material and cut them yourself as a possible solution too. Oops, missed Jonathan's post just above....
Brent Herridge
Active Member
I was so disappointed I did not realize I didn't update latest.......
So I got it put back together last Saturday. Fired it up OK and headed out. Runs fine under partial throttle and up to about 2500 RPM. But at WOT (or near it) at 3K it stumbles, coughs, and just won't run.
I thought it was more carb trouble, but it just doesn't make sense. Then this morning I realized it may be timing advance. No clue how that was disturbed by cleaning the air filter, but it's the only thing that seems plausible.
How does timing advance work on this bike ?
EFI would control it all through the main "brain", and really ancient stuff would be vacuum or mechanical.
What is it on these motors ?
So I got it put back together last Saturday. Fired it up OK and headed out. Runs fine under partial throttle and up to about 2500 RPM. But at WOT (or near it) at 3K it stumbles, coughs, and just won't run.
I thought it was more carb trouble, but it just doesn't make sense. Then this morning I realized it may be timing advance. No clue how that was disturbed by cleaning the air filter, but it's the only thing that seems plausible.
How does timing advance work on this bike ?
EFI would control it all through the main "brain", and really ancient stuff would be vacuum or mechanical.
What is it on these motors ?
It's most likely not timing....your module if stock isn't even programmable. There is one with settings that some people have installed but even with the programmable one the settings would be noticeable not just at at or above 3k. The timing adjustment is fairly limited and since you haven't changed it, it's again most likely not the issue
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pauldeepsea
Guru
Have you checked for any leaks? No shit the rubber caps on the intake manifold can dry rot and crack. It will cause it to stumble “cough” . It did on my
With the bike running use brake clean and spray around the intake manifold and exhaust manifold if it changes idle you have a leak.
knothead
Second Chance Customs
Im with Eric and Paul on this....i really believe u still have a air fuel mixture problem....air leak like Paul said or carb is still a little off...Eric is right also if timing was off u would notice at diiferent rpms...if u think ur carb is on then air leak has to be the issue....sounds like to me if u dont have air leak then main jet is off....but like paul said check for air leaks around the intake manifold...i will mention this i have seen head to cylinder gasket blow out and it was sucking air in and causing the issue ur taking about....most of the time you can hear that leak tho but not always
Brent Herridge
Active Member
OK. Thanks guy. I'll keep you posted.......
Pull the plugs and take a picture and indicate which is front/rear. I'm curious what they look like
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Brent Herridge
Active Member
Well..........the saga finally continues. Got the bike back from Shop #2. They called 2 weeks ago saying it was done, but they had done nothing. I repeated the symptoms, and this time they listened. After 2 weeks, they finally said its ready. Too much traffic to really try it out - WOT above 3K RPM, but it seemed better than before.
And now.....you guessed it......new problems. Somehow the right mirror is broken, and the belt is loose. Just enough that it slips enough to hit the belt guard. But what made me mad is they kept testing it and chewed chunks out of the entire belt. A brand new $200 belt I had less than 100 miles on !!
I'm researching belt tightness and guard fitments on older forum posts now. When I bought the bike a year ago I thought the belt guard was bent though. It clears the belt by no more than 1/8" at the back. It looks like something just bent it down, but I'm not sure.
I'll keep you posted.
And now.....you guessed it......new problems. Somehow the right mirror is broken, and the belt is loose. Just enough that it slips enough to hit the belt guard. But what made me mad is they kept testing it and chewed chunks out of the entire belt. A brand new $200 belt I had less than 100 miles on !!
I'm researching belt tightness and guard fitments on older forum posts now. When I bought the bike a year ago I thought the belt guard was bent though. It clears the belt by no more than 1/8" at the back. It looks like something just bent it down, but I'm not sure.
I'll keep you posted.
SEAL-rider
Active Member
You really need to be careful with the shops. Most of them have no idea how to work on BD. What exactly did shop2 do that fixed it. I would suggest keeping a log of all issues and fixes. I was going to ask if you were sure the small blue o-ring was installed on the jet. It can fall off, get chewed up etc... and if it were missing could account or your symptoms.
To tighten your belt you will need to make a measuring tool. You can do it with a coat hanger or use wire but it has to be precise. On the soft-tails you measure from the swing-arm bolt to the axel getting both sides identical with belt tension correct. Takes practice. It also helps to have a belt tension gauge until you get a feel for it. http://www.wildsteedworx.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=106_135&products_id=514
To tighten your belt you will need to make a measuring tool. You can do it with a coat hanger or use wire but it has to be precise. On the soft-tails you measure from the swing-arm bolt to the axel getting both sides identical with belt tension correct. Takes practice. It also helps to have a belt tension gauge until you get a feel for it. http://www.wildsteedworx.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=106_135&products_id=514
Brent Herridge
Active Member
Thanks. I saw Curtis' video and the tension measuring tool. The belt is really not that loose. I found some posts here about tightening and changing belts. I think its on backwards. I saw conflicting info about whether or not they're directional, but the writing on mine is definitely backwards if you're facing the bike on the right side.
PROFLYER
SWOLE
I think you still have a leak. An easy way to test that is get a propane torch, get the bike running, and sort of 'shoot' the propane around your seal areas (without the torch burning, obviously). If the seals are leaking they'll suck in the propane and you'll see a rise in idle. I had to chase one a few years back and this was the only way I was able to find which area was still leaking.
Brent Herridge
Active Member
The plugs are new NGK DCPR7Es. They look OK to me. Nearly white but tan on one side. Guess our flame front is not that even.
Here's the belt too. it has nicks all over it, but they're only on the surface. I plan to soldier on to BBBBQ, finish wearing out this tire, and then change tire and belt this winter. Doing it myself this time........I'll research lifts next.
Front plugs:
Rear plugs:
NGK plug model:
Here's the belt too. it has nicks all over it, but they're only on the surface. I plan to soldier on to BBBBQ, finish wearing out this tire, and then change tire and belt this winter. Doing it myself this time........I'll research lifts next.
Front plugs:
Rear plugs:
NGK plug model:
Attachments
Brent Herridge
Active Member
Here's the belt - condition and tension. I saw some controversy about belts being directional or not. if they are, this one appears to be on backwards. I'm sure that worsens slippage.......
knothead
Second Chance Customs
I dont know how many miles u got on those plugs but ur motor is lean....back cylinder will naturally always be richer than the front because of gravity and the force of going down the road will automatically let more fuel go to the rear cylinder...but u still got a air leak or not enough fuelThe plugs are new NGK DCPR7Es. They look OK to me. Nearly white but tan on one side. Guess our flame front is not that even.
Here's the belt too. it has nicks all over it, but they're only on the surface. I plan to soldier on to BBBBQ, finish wearing out this tire, and then change tire and belt this winter. Doing it myself this time........I'll research lifts next.
Front plugs:
View attachment 67809
View attachment 67810
Rear plugs:
View attachment 67811
View attachment 67812
NGK plug model:
View attachment 67813