Can't shift into neutral (while running) since fluid change, function of primary or trans?

No H2O

Active Member
I've lived with this since my last fluid change since I haven't ridden as much since CoVid but now it's time for a fluid change and I don't want to use Spectro since pre-Spectro I was able to shift into neutral (with engine running) easily
(Primary Fluid: 1q Dino 85W
Transmission Fluid: 24oz FS 75W-140)
Does shifting into neutral depend on the primary or trans fluid?
 

woodbutcher

Mr. Old Fart member #145
Staff member
check the Heim joints on both ends of the shifter rod for binding. lube well and make sure they are perfectly in line with each other. if the bike is exposed to the weather much, especially with salt on the roads in the winter, corrosion is your worst enemy.
 

No H2O

Active Member
check the Heim joints on both ends of the shifter rod for binding. lube well and make sure they are perfectly in line with each other. if the bike is exposed to the weather much, especially with salt on the roads in the winter, corrosion is your worst enemy.
that may be the case in a number of situations but I figure that would affect shifting into any gear. in my case it's only neutral and it happened immediately after replacing fluids.
 
Interesting post ! try walking your scooter with clutch in at least five feet then bounce it , do the same going back , then a few feet forward bounce again , start her up and well if you have no neutral , its not the fluids ! would need more info to take you to the next step .... try that first .....
 

Mikeinjersey

Well-Known Member
I've lived with this since my last fluid change since I haven't ridden as much since CoVid but now it's time for a fluid change and I don't want to use Spectro since pre-Spectro I was able to shift into neutral (with engine running) easily
(Primary Fluid: 1q Dino 85W
Transmission Fluid: 24oz FS 75W-140)
Does shifting into neutral depend on the primary or trans fluid?
Can't hurt to change the fluids again since you saw an immediate change in finding neutral. Lots of opinions on which name brand to use. If it is indeed a fluid issue, I believe it would be more likely to be the primary fluid because it directly effects your clutch plates. Fyi , not sure what trans you have but my K9 trans calls for 20 oz and the primary calls for 1 qt but because of starters getting contaminated with fluid it's recommended to use between 20 to 24 oz in the primary.
Double check your specs and get some recommendations from the group . Good Luck
 

Jwooky

Well-Known Member
85w in the primary is very heavy.
Many of us use trans fluid which is close to 20w

I believe Harley Primary is the heaviest 40-50w
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Does shifting into neutral depend on the primary or trans fluid?
Nether. It's plate drag and a parts problem, not a liquid problem. By the time you stop for N, that hot oil is going to be watery thin. You also have a sticky covid sitter and an oil change might help, if not shuffle the plates to stack the steels and narrow it down chasing N.
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
ATF Type F That's what the folks at Energy One who make the clutch frictions recommends as well.. So I listen to them. I run it on all my bikes and it's about a big whopping $3 p/QT at Walmart. Non Synthetic and no friction modifiers in that old ford fluid. You don't want to add any modifiers that would cause the frictions to slip.

They recommend the lightest oil possible, so 85w as mentioned is way too thick.
 

jarnett

Active Member
Had the same issue. Changed the primary oil to red line and also did a re-adjustment on the clutch (1/8" out) and can now find neutral from 1st or second with ease while running. Best it's ever been. Was using Dino oil before
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
An oil diagnose v. parts drag:
With a dead engine, set bike in top gear. Push the bike back and forth with clutch lever pulled. You have a somewhat immediate release or break at the plates, it's not sticking oil wise or parts wise.
 

No H2O

Active Member
I did the ATF Type F swap and still can't shift into neutral while running. Only way to do it, while running, is to rev up the rpms then it'll shift (but that was the same way with the spectro)
 

Mickmorris

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
So you can’t get neutral from 1st while the bike is running? How about from 2nd to neutral? Sounds like you are going to need to adjust the clutch. I just did mine on my ridgeback before my trip to Tennessee and it worked great. Pretty easy operation to do yourself.
 

No H2O

Active Member
So you can’t get neutral from 1st while the bike is running? How about from 2nd to neutral? Sounds like you are going to need to adjust the clutch. I just did mine on my ridgeback before my trip to Tennessee and it worked great. Pretty easy operation to do yourself.
Can't get into neutral from either 1st or 2nd while running. I'll try the original fluid first. If the only clutch adjustment I have to do is at the cable connecting area halfway down the front of the frame that's not bad but if I have to deal with the ramp/ball assembly then I'd rather not
 
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