How can I tell if the bike is crank triggered or cam triggered. Big Dog manual I have isn't very informative. Rebuilt carb on bike and I will run for a while without incident and then sometimes just shuts down. Won't start back. Wait I little while and it'll start. Last time wouldn't start and battery ran down. Brought the bike back to house hooked up charger came back a day later and fires right up without any problem. From what I've read could be cam or crank sensor. If so where would be location of sensors? Cam sensor I'm assuming is under the timing cover? Crank sensor to front left of motor? Appreciate any and all advise.
Cam or Crank Triggered
- Thread starter Outlaw
- Start date
DRBarnhart
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If your motor is stock it should be a cam sensor. And you're right on the location. If you look around there's instructions on checking the sensor...
Dennis
Dennis
I found the cam sensor and tested it. According to DRBarnhart's instruction. The first part of the test there was no change in the meter at all. Didn't read anything at all. Meter never changed. Ran the second part of test and I read continuity between the green and black wires. With red lead to green wire, and black lead to black wire, I shouldn't have had anything. I had about 360kohm. With red to black and black to green I had the same..about 360 kohm. So part of the test says sensor could be bad. Right? Don't think we are having a venting issue. Check all that out when the carb was rebuilt. New caps and and good fuel flow. Even when bike quits. There is a vent tube on the intake that wasn't covered when we got the bike. I'm assuming that it should be plugged. Bike seems to run strong when it's running. Thanks for the input.
DRBarnhart
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I'd run the test one more time making sure you're doing exactly as stated:
1. Disconnect the cam sensor from the ignition module.
2. Take out your trusty multimeter and set it to the RX1 scale.
3. Now while touching the sensor backing plate with the negative meter lead touch the positive meter lead on each of the three wires of the sensor connector (red, black, & green). If you get continuity from the backing plate to any of them the sensor is bad.
If it passes the first test...
1. With your meter still at the same settings touch the positive meter lead to the green wire and the negative meter lead to the black wire. If you get an "open" it's good. (Any resistance is "bad)
2. Then take the positive meter lead and touch the black sensor wire while touching the negative meter lead to the green wire. In this case an "open" is bad. A reading somewhere around 300 - 750 Kohms is what you're looking for.
If you didn't get values that are relatively close to what they should be I'd say your cam sensor has gone tits up! Also, keep in mind the sensor could pass the test while cool but fail when it's hot so you could also run the test after warming it up with a hair dryer...
Dennis
1. Disconnect the cam sensor from the ignition module.
2. Take out your trusty multimeter and set it to the RX1 scale.
3. Now while touching the sensor backing plate with the negative meter lead touch the positive meter lead on each of the three wires of the sensor connector (red, black, & green). If you get continuity from the backing plate to any of them the sensor is bad.
If it passes the first test...
1. With your meter still at the same settings touch the positive meter lead to the green wire and the negative meter lead to the black wire. If you get an "open" it's good. (Any resistance is "bad)
2. Then take the positive meter lead and touch the black sensor wire while touching the negative meter lead to the green wire. In this case an "open" is bad. A reading somewhere around 300 - 750 Kohms is what you're looking for.
If you didn't get values that are relatively close to what they should be I'd say your cam sensor has gone tits up! Also, keep in mind the sensor could pass the test while cool but fail when it's hot so you could also run the test after warming it up with a hair dryer...
Dennis
Checked cam sensor again. On first part of test I had the meter set on 200k. Meter read 1 and never moved. I thought it would read zero if it was no continuity. Second part of test I still got about 350-360. Reguardless of which wire the leads were on. Tried heating up sensor and didn't change anything. Rode the bike around checked the sensor again and still the same. Hate to take off and get stuck again. I'm assuming it can act up until it finally just goes completey.