broken or chipped valve spring retainers on 107
- Thread starter wrench
- Start date
I was just talking with John Sachs about this very issue. The early S&S engines, with 600 lift valve springs, have retainers that have holes in them, they're junk. Failure of these components is very common.
They are just trouble waiting to happen. Hate to hear later that it sucked a valve, man.
If you have these two tools and an air compressor Randy you shouldn’t have to pull your heads off to change those retainers. Just the rocker boxes. 
That is as long as you have the clearance between the frame and the Head to use it. If you have an air compressor and not the tools you can pick them up cheap at Harbor freight. You take the air line off of your compression tester screw it into the spark plug hole on the cylinder that you’re working on. First make sure that the piston is all the way down on that cylinder then hook your air hose from your compressor up to your compression tester hose and that will hold your valves up. Then you take your spring compressor and compress the spring take your old retainers off put your new retainers on then back off the spring compressor to hold your new retainers in place. Then disconnect your airline from your compressor from your airline for your compression gauge unscrew the compression gauge line from the spark plug hole and Shazam you just change your retainers without pulling the heads. Of course Randy this all hinges on if you got clearance between your frame and the top of your valves for that valve Spring compression tool.
That is as long as you have the clearance between the frame and the Head to use it. If you have an air compressor and not the tools you can pick them up cheap at Harbor freight. You take the air line off of your compression tester screw it into the spark plug hole on the cylinder that you’re working on. First make sure that the piston is all the way down on that cylinder then hook your air hose from your compressor up to your compression tester hose and that will hold your valves up. Then you take your spring compressor and compress the spring take your old retainers off put your new retainers on then back off the spring compressor to hold your new retainers in place. Then disconnect your airline from your compressor from your airline for your compression gauge unscrew the compression gauge line from the spark plug hole and Shazam you just change your retainers without pulling the heads. Of course Randy this all hinges on if you got clearance between your frame and the top of your valves for that valve Spring compression tool. 
Something I forgot to mention Randy which is very important on the end of that hose from your compression tester there is a Schrader valve like what is in one of your valve stems on your tire. You must screw that out of there before using it to hold your valves shut. Or else you won’t be given any air to the cylinder so your valves will drop .
One more thing Randy I might mention once you get that valve spring compressed you might as will lift it up off of there and put new valve stem seals on as well since you’re already there and their dirt cheap. There just an umbrella type of seal and they just slide off and The new one will just slide on with a little oil for lube.
That trick made me a lot of money wene I was wrenching on cars At a GM dealership for a side job Paul.
For a few years there that umbrella seal on the valve stem on GM’s Deteriorated quickly and blowing blue smoke on start up. So I was changing them like crazy. I don’t Remember what the book time was paying to do that but not haveing to take the head off I was beating the book time by like 2/3
For a few years there that umbrella seal on the valve stem on GM’s Deteriorated quickly and blowing blue smoke on start up. So I was changing them like crazy. I don’t Remember what the book time was paying to do that but not haveing to take the head off I was beating the book time by like 2/3
wrench
Member
I tried one of those lil tools to compress the springs with a set of heads off the bike.. it didn't work out well. I have a jims and an old giant c clamp type that work great.. but I remember trying one of those little jobs you picture and didn't trust it.I forget just what it was but I remember calling it junk.. we used to put clothes line in thru the spark plug hole to keep the valves up... I remember my ole street rod walking across the garage when i put air in the cylinder to do it.. I had all the plugs out. lol.
Yeah I don’t know much about the Pittsburgh one Randy. I just seen that Harbor freight had them cheap. The first picture I posted of the one that I have is a blue point/snap on and I’ve done literally thousands of valve springs with it and It has not failed me once. I also have a Jim’s 96600-36B C clamp type to and it also works very well if you got the heads off. I also have a Mac tool C clamp type as well and It did failed me one time but the Mac man replaced it and I haven’t had a problem with it since. Of course shortly after that I quit wrenching on cars so it hasn’t been used much.
As for the vehicle moveing As long as you got your piston at the bottom of it’s stroke it shouldn’t move anywhere.
I’ve heard of people using rope successfully through the plug hole and bringing the piston up to the TDS I’ve just never tried that myself.
As for the vehicle moveing As long as you got your piston at the bottom of it’s stroke it shouldn’t move anywhere.
I’ve heard of people using rope successfully through the plug hole and bringing the piston up to the TDS I’ve just never tried that myself.
wrench
Member
I figure ill go ahead and do the heads while have it apart. ,lap the valves back in and put in new valve seals . with 70k on the motor I should go ahead and bore, hone ,new pistons & rings and be done with it. I was gonna wait till it was blowing smoke before I rebuilt the upper end on it. We have bout another month before riding season. the shop gets busy first 70 degree day. so now is the best time to work on my own stuff. Only be a 2 day job if it wasn't for the machine shop being at a slow crawl on doing the cylinders..
