Brokedown AGAIN

[Diesel Dan]

Finished building a engine today for a customer in my shop............Decided to go for a ride and visit my Uncle Doug.........Vietnam Vet Special Force's.....Not doing to good lately,stuff from the war is catching up with him........Had a nice visit............Got ready to go and the fucking bikes brokedown again..NO start:angry::angry:....Took me about 5 minutes to figure out I had ANOTHER Cam Sensor take a shit:bang::bang:............I only got 500 Riding miles outta this sensor...That's totally unacceptable to me:down::down:....

ANBODY GOT ANY SUGGESTIONS on how to make these things last longer....thats ridiculous..........What about removing the nosecone and machining some small holes in it that look nice....get some airflow over that sucker so it don't burn up so bad............I NEVER ride in the rain so Iam not worried about water getting in there.........Open for ideas anybody................getting to the fuck it point like Franco is with his.....
Thanks for any ideas...........

 

[Sven]

WATT kills electrical components? Heat.
What needs a sink 'glued' to transfer heat? Aluminum.
What does the sensor look like? Can I lay a cut washer I sawed in half, has the correct hole diameter, I now lay it over the 'round?' sensor.
What happens if I take a file and form the sensor's body to the half hole of that aluminum washer?
What I do next is find at home or lowes, 'amazing goop glue.' The glue is the same, just the packaging is there for dummies to figure out plumbing, marine, household, means the same shit inside. Ask me how I know?

See my heat sink as I make fins and glue them in place? That glue was used to mount a camera rod off the head. Head is the hottest part of the engine so that sensor is child's play.

I'm no expert so think about this. I mess with a square wave that's coil windings made in that sensor. I start throwing other windings at it, it says balance. So when I design a toaster, I better use the right balance or up goes the house/breakers snap/no toast/my fingers become the toast/etc.

What is my numbered resistance against book? 376 ~ 564 ohms IS NOT for a Dog! This is a crank sensor resistance reading and has to be within those numbers for argument sake. You know this stuff, Dan, I'm just relaying it to others that reading 375 is junk as is 565 is out of range and that is junk on the other side of the meter.

So if middle number is ideal spec (cold), that is your spec before the wave changes enough, you breakout of spec of both those ranges it says, 'no start.'

In other words, I'm not going to buy a different crank sensor thinking it's going to work if that sensor reads 370 ~ 470 (cold). I'm out of spec at both ranges, knowing the one that failed was spec'd @ 376 ~ 564. Right?

Try the glue, because welding may heat the copper inside, melt the layer the wire it is separated from, and there goes the resistance #'s if not shorts it internally.

 

[Diesel Dan]

Yeah Iam thinking of doing a Total Ignition system upgrade.........tired of fiddle fucking with these Cam Sensors........I just put a Twin ignition coil setup on it......love it..........just gotta figure out something to get rid of this cam sensor............This is ridiculous.......Probally gonna do the Daytona twin tec 1005 swap..........everyone I know says its bad ass..........

Thanks for the suggestions Sven......

 

[francoblay1]

All good fun

 

[BigDogBro1]

Heat and overvoltage both contribute.

Could be the votage regulator allows too high of a charge voltage and that could be prematurely killing the cam sensor.

 

[KnotSo]

WATT kills electrical components? Heat.
What needs a sink 'glued' to transfer heat? Aluminum.
What does the sensor look like? Can I lay a cut washer I sawed in half, has the correct hole diameter, I now lay it over the 'round?' sensor.
What happens if I take a file and form the sensor's body to the half hole of that aluminum washer?
What I do next is find at home or lowes, 'amazing goop glue.' The glue is the same, just the packaging is there for dummies to figure out plumbing, marine, household, means the same shit inside. Ask me how I know?

See my heat sink as I make fins and glue them in place? That glue was used to mount a camera rod off the head. Head is the hottest part of the engine so that sensor is child's play.

I'm no expert so think about this. I mess with a square wave that's coil windings made in that sensor. I start throwing other windings at it, it says balance. So when I design a toaster, I better use the right balance or up goes the house/breakers snap/no toast/my fingers become the toast/etc.

What is my numbered resistance against book? 376 ~ 564 ohms IS NOT for a Dog! This is a crank sensor resistance reading and has to be within those numbers for argument sake. You know this stuff, Dan, I'm just relaying it to others that reading 375 is junk as is 565 is out of range and that is junk on the other side of the meter.

So if middle number is ideal spec (cold), that is your spec before the wave changes enough, you breakout of spec of both those ranges it says, 'no start.'

In other words, I'm not going to buy a different crank sensor thinking it's going to work if that sensor reads 370 ~ 470 (cold). I'm out of spec at both ranges, knowing the one that failed was spec'd @ 376 ~ 564. Right?

Try the glue, because welding may heat the copper inside, melt the layer the wire it is separated from, and there goes the resistance #'s if not shorts it internally.

Hope you resolve this quickly:2thumbs:

 

[BadDawg Bill]

The very first week I had my bike I put in the Crane HI-4. They are as solid as a rock. At half the price there is an Ultima system too but I can't vouch for it. Anything electrical on these bikes need to be replace so you can have dependability and enjoy your ride instead of wondering if you will get home.

 

[KaptinAmerika]

Here he goes again.
How do you figure that BadDawg when I, as well as thousands of others, am running stock electrical and I don't worry about getting home and I do enjoy riding? I did the same when I had my 03 Chop as well.
Granted there are those with problems, most of which seem to be on this site, but that doesn't brand the entire Name.

 

[francoblay1]

Here he goes again.
How do you figure that BadDawg when I, as well as thousands of others, am running stock electrical and I don't worry about getting home and I do enjoy riding? I did the same when I had my 03 Chop as well.
Granted there are those with problems, most of which seem to be on this site, but that doesn't brand the entire Name.

X2, 06 K9 here with all stock electrics including EHC, :up:

oh I did change the Ignition for a programmable one.

 

[Sven]

Could be the voltage regulator allows too high of a charge voltage and that could be prematurely killing the cam sensor.

No offense, Bro1, but cam and crank sensors push their own AC out the wire. That's why I explained how your coil windings are the AC out and that resistance has a window or range. So if you had like an LED maybe and crossed both wires, crank the engine and if the LED lights, AC is still same volts going both ways.

So for us/we/you to eliminate the cam/crank sensors, we need the old harley cup, VOES, and black box off an old evo blockhead style say. That cut in the crank flywheels eliminate the cam having a nose for the cup. So you're fucked basically.

Therefore, the cam and crank have to produce their own wave signal and no premature killing is happening. We are back to cheaply made parts or heat sink the next one.

Signed,

WATThe Fuck?

 

[Diesel Dan]

I don't think theres enough room in the housing to build a heat sink on the back of the cam sensor..............think it would hit the rotor cup.......iam gonna get a points cover and modify it and experiment,I got a idea that will allow for good airflow over the sensor and cool it down..........

 

[Sven]

Again, Dan, it may look lame, but a hunk of aluminum glued to the outside body is still contact to draw [heat] out of.

Ah, pull the cover off now if that cover is hiding the sensor. And guess wad? You could glue that scoop on. No drilling/tapping/rivets needed, wink-wink!

 

[Dakotabos]

Wish I could explain what my Great Mech did for my dog. My EHC died a while back then I went to Wire Plus. Sometime it would fire some times not so I took it to an old Mechanic and he ripped all the BS off it put Harley controls on Drag bars, ripped the wires out and put 3 fuses under the seat and now The dog fires up and runs like a champ. I went with Andrew's advice and put a Daytona Twin Tec LLC - Model 1005 Ignition in it while he was ripping and stripping and it cost me $1200 (For EVERYTHING With Labor) but my bike is never just something to look at now.
You may want to check into upgrading your CAM Sensor to a Daytona Twin Tec LLC - Model 1005 Ignition. Just my .02 cents buddy. Hope your on the road soon.

If you need another cam sensor let me know. I have one laying here
:2thumbs:

 

[Diesel Dan]

Yeah Iam gonna get a Daytona twin tech 1005........BUT I WANT TO KEEP the dual Ignition coil setup I just put on my bike.......can I do that?????

 

[KaptinAmerika]

Yes you can set the Twin Tec for single or dual fire mode

 

[Diesel Dan]

Thanks Kurtis........................will call you in the morning:up:.......

 

[BadDawg Bill]

Here he goes again.
How do you figure that BadDawg when I, as well as thousands of others, am running stock electrical and I don't worry about getting home and I do enjoy riding? I did the same when I had my 03 Chop as well.
Granted there are those with problems, most of which seem to be on this site, but that doesn't brand the entire Name.

Well, I may be old but not blind or stupid. Almost every other trouble post on here has to do with the electrics. How many members are spending big $$ on electric parts just to keep their bikes running?

This thread is just an example. Sure, if you only ride to the local bar every other Sunday maybe you haven't had any trouble yet but if you ride like me (over 20k a year) sooner or later you will have electric problems. I rode my custom built by me (and wired by me) bike 200k without 1 electrical problem.

You sell parts and know as well as I do "if" you'll be honest the electrical is the weak link in these bikes. And all these so called "kits" are just replacing one module/computer for another which will give you the same problems down the road.

I wish the other "bikers" on here would sound out too because I get PM's telling me they agree with me. I've been riding and building bikes for 50 years now and have never heard of so many problems with electrics on any other bike.

I had one of the mods ask me if I would document my rewire so others could see and learn how to do it but by these posts I would be wasting my time.

 

[BadDawg Bill]

Wish I could explain what my Great Mech did for my dog. My EHC died a while back then I went to Wire Plus. Sometime it would fire some times not so I took it to an old Mechanic and he ripped all the BS off it put Harley controls on Drag bars, ripped the wires out and put 3 fuses under the seat and now The dog fires up and runs like a champ. I went with Andrew's advice and put a Daytona Twin Tec LLC - Model 1005 Ignition in it while he was ripping and stripping and it cost me $1200 (For EVERYTHING With Labor) but my bike is never just something to look at now.
You may want to check into upgrading your CAM Sensor to a Daytona Twin Tec LLC - Model 1005 Ignition. Just my .02 cents buddy. Hope your on the road soon.

If you need another cam sensor let me know. I have one laying here
:2thumbs:

:2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: See, we are not all blind followers of the BD way is the only way.... and I'll bet he "rides" his scoot too...

 

[KnotSo]

We all want options, you are going down a path others will want to take.

Several are making comments, while hundreds, perhaps thousands more are reading and not commenting.

I still have the stock unit in my scoot and it was never upgraded nor re flashed and plan to run it till it dies, hope it lasts another 12 years.

Many will not ever go with anything but an original BDM part, some may go with the popular RIP, or the WP, or a complete rewire, and others will go with whatever the latest greatest must have this is it item that is hot at the moment.

How to's help everyone to make a more informed decision when their time comes.

Curious to see what Diesel Dan does and how it works out

 

[BadDawg Bill]

Well, for the good of the board and the real bikers that have had enough I will document my rewire. I only want to help others enjoy their bikes and not push some vendors new product or other "next great wonder".

I feel bad for the guys up north who only get to ride a few months a year. Here in Fl I ride all year around. If their bike goes down and they don't don't have the $$ to fix it, they are out of luck and won't ride till next year.

I own a beautiful bike. A 2004 BD chopper which I look at like a beautiful woman. Lots of love, time and money. The more I can do to make it reliable the better I'm off I am and can enjoy the bike. After 50 years of riding and building bikes I know what works and what doesn't. I was building bikes when some of you were still crapping in your diapers. (my first bike was a 1936 Harley flat head 80. got it for my 12th birthday) I'm glad some of you have had good luck with your electrics I guess it's just the luck of the draw. I wasn't so lucky so I'm going back to what I know.

So take it for what it's worth and take my posts for what they are worth and I hope some of it helps you. I just posted on another thread how to diagnose your charging system. This should save a few of you some $$ and help you out. I also posted on another thread how to set your S&S carb. The more we know the better off we will be and isn't that what a board is all about?

As for Dan, he needs a new ig. system. Crane, Altuma or Dayton it will be a lot better than the crap BD puts in the bikes.